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  • 14 inch band saw

    Well 1st day using my new Ridgid band saw and already it has broken down. The nut square on the knob blade adjusting stripped the adjusting threads.

    I had use a 3/4 inch band to rip some slabs of the 4X4 block of fir. I had tighten the adjustment to the 3/4" setting. When I tried to loosen the blade tension gauge the nut jammed. I had to use a vise grip to loosen the tension so I could get the blade off the wheels. When I took the wheel off and removed the blade tension gauge, I saw that the threads were stripped, just as I feared.



    Even thou the machine says it can use a 3/4" blade, It is doubtful the steel used in the knob blade adjusting for the blade tension gauge is hard enough to be used at the tension needed to use a 3/4" blade.

    I do not recommend this product as a 3/4" band saw.

    [ 08-17-2002, 01:56 AM: Message edited by: Mérovée ]

  • #2
    Merovee,

    Please give customer service a call at 1-800-4RIDGID and ask for the parts you need to replace. That bandsaw should have no problem holding a 3/4" blade, though I would recommend taking some of the tension off between uses.

    Jake

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    • #3
      I've had the same problem twice with the Ridgid Bandsaw where the tension adjusting screw stripped when set to the tension indicated. Ridgid has been good about getting me replacement parts but nevertheless it's not a good tendency in a tool and it wastes time. Two questions to Ridgid about this problem. 1. Can you guys manufacture a better screw perhaps? Better steel? 2. Is it possible that the settings suggested by the tension scale are incorrect?

      Rob

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      • #4
        While I have top admit I have yet to use 3/4" blade beyond a shadow of a doubt a 1/2" blade so far has done quite well when it comes to resawing. I even used it to turn a 24" Live Oak log into 4/4 boards and turning blanks. I am quite happy with my BS so far. Contact Ridgid, I'm sure they'll stand behind their product.

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        • #5
          I am looking at the bandsaw as a new addition to the workshop pretty soon and was wondering when the new fence will be available?

          I'm deciding between the Grizzly (new one), the Ridgid and the Jet.
          Kelly C. Hanna<br /><a href=\"http://www.hannawoodworks.com\" target=\"_blank\">Hanna Woodworks</a>

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          • #6
            Rob,

            We went back and looked at those two parts (the knob screw and the square nut) and found the threads were out of spec. We have since recieved good parts and have those available to send out.

            Jake

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            • #7
              Originally posted by JSchnarre:
              Rob,

              We went back and looked at those two parts (the knob screw and the square nut) and found the threads were out of spec. We have since recieved good parts and have those available to send out.

              Jake
              Well I did order the part and even though the package went to the wrong town, you had the right postal code, so I got it in 3 ½ weeks.

              I wasn’t going to buy another rigid but I did end up buying the rigid planer, it was the step stops, stand and dust attachment that changed my mind. [img]tongue.gif[/img]

              I put oil on the setscrew and I don’t set it past the ½ inch setting. It cuts find with the ¾ blade, but I don’t use it now I find the ½ blade does a better job and it’s a lot quieter.

              Was the screw and nut you sent me the new stuff or is it the old ones?

              Another thing when I try to cut anything over four inches the blade bends. Is there anything I can do to stop this? I’m using this delta ½ inch blade.

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              • #8
                Need a better blade, contact Suffolk machinery at
                1-800-234-7927 for Timberwolf blades.

                Tell them what you have, tell them what you want to do, buy some blades (not connected in any way).

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                • #9
                  Re: 14 inch band saw

                  Sorry to read about your problem with the saw tension adjustment. Your problem regarding bending the blade suggests (assuming all adjustments are set correctly) that the blade is being jambed by saw dust in the cut and that it cannot cleared fast enough.
                  If not already doing so, you may get better results with a blade having fewer teeth such as 3 or 4 per inch and maybe in a skip-tooth configuration. The gullets between the teeth clear out saw dust. Pushing the wood too hard against the blade forces the teeth to dig deeper into the wood and produce enough saw dust to overwhelm the clearing ability of the blade. This causes the blade to bind in the cut. Back off on pressure, and let the blade do the work. As the thickness of the wood increases so will the cutting time.
                  Other things that may contribute to bending, low tension on the blade, loose guides and the upper guides being set too high above the wood surface.
                  As WaMan mentioned Timberline blades have been recommended by many, and I understand that it can be helpful with solving your problem.
                  Good luck, and have a good day.

                  Edinmin

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                  • #10
                    Re: 14 inch band saw

                    I've had my Ridgid BS for a few years now. The only upgrade I've done was to replace the drive belt with a link belt. I've used a good 1/2" 3TPI resaw blade with good results. Now, however, when I put that same blade back on, I can't seem to get it to cut straight! As soon as I start the resaw (hard maple, 4-6" blocks), it wanders "in" towards the throat almost immediately. It's nearly a 30degree circle it's trying to cut! I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've re-tensioned to the same setting I used to use as marked on the saw.

                    Any hints?
                    I put it all back together better than before. There\'s lots of leftover parts.

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                    • #11
                      Re: 14 inch band saw

                      Originally posted by VASandy View Post
                      I've had my Ridgid BS for a few years now. The only upgrade I've done was to replace the drive belt with a link belt. I've used a good 1/2" 3TPI resaw blade with good results. Now, however, when I put that same blade back on, I can't seem to get it to cut straight! As soon as I start the resaw (hard maple, 4-6" blocks), it wanders "in" towards the throat almost immediately. It's nearly a 30degree circle it's trying to cut! I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've re-tensioned to the same setting I used to use as marked on the saw.

                      Any hints?
                      The Timberwolf blades are excellent BTW, that is what I have. I would not use a 3/4" on this saw, not enough HP for that, and a TW 1/2" resaw blade is just fine.
                      Are your wheels coplannar? You can adjust that. The tires also may be an issue if they are not in position, the blade position on the wheels, the blocks and so on...basically bandsaw' are very sensitive to adjustments. I would go thru all settings and check them. feed rate is important too. The drift will occur to some extent in resaw and you can use a resaw fence with a line on the wood or mark a scrap with a line cut free hand along for 12" and you will see the drift angle, the rip fence can then be set to follow that cut line. This is not like a Table saw fence adjustment.
                      I have an older grey BS1400,Jet fence,Rockler urethane tires[I balanced the wheels too],roller blocks for resaw, cool blocks on thin blades, riser kit, reinforced stand base, link belt,4" DC duct added .

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