Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

TS 3612 hard start @240v

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • TS 3612 hard start @240v

    I just purchased a TS3612 and so far, I really like it. I fired it up twice at the standard 120 volt configuration and it dimmed the lights. I decided to solve my problem by hiring an electical contractor to wire a new 240 volt, 20 amp circuit. The guy was so impressed with the saw that he actually changed the motor wiring and plug for me as well.

    I checked his work before turning it on for the first time at 240v. When I pulled the switch, I was surprised by the noise and jerk vibration. The sound is similiar to my central air conditioner compressor turning on. The saw runs smooth after startup, but the initial jerk is enough to foul the belt's placement on the pulleys. If I don't adjust the belt, it comes off every third startup.

    I feel like a carney operating a Tilt-A-Whirl. What the heck happened to my smooth-starting, well-tuned, nickle-balancing saw???

    I've gone over all alignments and adjustments. I also read an older message on the same topic. Any advice?

    Thanks,
    Mike

  • #2
    Mike,
    Welcome to the forum... [img]smile.gif[/img]
    This is just a thought, but the short of it is, I would re-check the pulley alignment from the motor to the arbor housing... Be very sure that they are truly in line...
    I use a very thin and long straight edge and hold it to the face of the arbor pulley and move the motor pulley right to left until it is aligned... then tighten the setscrew nice and snug…
    When I converted my saw from 110v to 220v, I noticed that the startup was much faster than before... It does slightly jump when I throw the switch, but considering that the saw is going from a stopped position to about 3450 rpm in about 1-1/2 seconds, and has to get everything in motion it must jump a bit... I have never experienced any cog jumping on the belt thou, so that’s why I feel you should double check the alignment... The belt will follow the easiest course and if the pulleys are not in line then it will likely walk to one side or the other…

    Hope this helps…
    Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

    Comment


    • #3
      I too converted my saw to 240. The start up torque is tremendous over the 120. But I consider that a good thing as the blade will have more consistant power, and better for the motor.

      I too experience belt jump, but it was on my dado stack. I set the stack up differently than I had been and the belt stopped jumping off. I assume I had the dado stack set up out of balance, and with the weight of the blades and the torque, it simply threw the belt off.

      I did align the pullys weekend before last when I ran through set before beginning my next project and found the pulleys were off about 1.5mm. I notice alot less belt flap and vibration now. I do plan someday to replace the belt with that new fangled link belt.

      But as Big Johnson's advises, check pulley alignment. I would also check the trunnion bolts for tightness. Mine were not all that tight from factory.
      John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

      Comment


      • #4
        Woody, do you have the 3612? I'm sure that you've posted what you have before, but I can't remember. Anyway, I'm not sure about the 2424, but the 3612 won't take the link belts. It is set up for the serpentine type belts.

        I'm glad I am reading the posts now as I'm getting ready to rewire the shop.

        Comment


        • #5
          No Mike, mine is the 2424, but I believe it's the same motor.

          As with many, the 3612 isn't even set up at the closests HD in my area so I have not had the opertunity to put it under a magnifing glass. I'm glade you informed me of the belt and pulley system on the 3612, I was not aware of that. Thank you.
          John E. Adams<br /><a href=\"http://www.woodys-workshop.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.woodys-workshop.com</a>

          Comment


          • #6
            but the 3612 won't take the link belts. It is set up for the serpentine type belts.

            These belts are called "poly-v", and they are the same belts used on the TS2424 and TS2412. To run link belts (which is a downgrade in my opinion), the sheaves must be replaced.

            Dave

            Comment


            • #7
              Dave Arbuckle,
              Did your TS2424-0 come out with the flat poly v-belt like the TS2424-1 or the standard deep v belt... I know the pre 96' or 98' Craftsman's were the standard deep v belt...
              Regards,<br /><br />Big Johnson<br /><br />Pictures: <a href=\"http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php\" target=\"_blank\">http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albuv85&op=modload&name= gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php</a>

              Comment


              • #8
                Sorry, I'm used to working on autos. We don't call them Poly v belts when placed on cars.

                either way, going to a v belt would be a downgrade as compared to a POLY V.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Guys,

                  Thanks for your replies to my question. Your advice is greatly appreciated. This forum is the best tool of all. No regrets on choosing Ridgid over JET!

                  I'm relieved to know the extra motor torque is normal. I'll realign the pulleys, check tightness throughout and let you know how it goes.

                  It was three degrees below zero outside when I unpacked the box and set up the saw in my unheated garage. I probablly botched the pulley alignment when I tightened them down. My hands were like frozen clubs at that point. If I could pass along a word of advice: don't wax your saw table in extreme cold. Johnson's paste wax turns into hard putty when rubbed into cold iron.

                  Thanks again for your help,
                  Mike

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X