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  • #16
    Re: Hot water heater

    I just called Lowe's and his computer said they had 11 in stock so I'm off to Loew's to get one.

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: Hot water heater

      I just went to Lowe's and got that test pressure gauge and it reads about 68 psi. Its got that high pressure needle on it so I will see what it reads when the water is heating. I also checked the water temp with the dial set on 120 degrees and it read 130.6 degrees so I turned down the dial a little more. Apparently whatever the noise is it isn't coming from the pressure relief valve I have a piece of metal flex hose coming from the pressure relief valve that goes down and back up for 180 degree bend where it screws into the rigid drain pipe which is about 6 or 8 inches below the level of the prv. I unscrewed it and it was dryer than a popcorn fart.

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      • #18
        Re: Hot water heater

        It is a good thing you are trying to get your temperature down.The hotter the water above 120 degrees, I've heard stated on this forum,really multiplies your rate of tank deterioration over time.

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: Hot water heater

          Metal flex hose on relief valve is a BAD idea

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: Hot water heater

            Originally posted by plumberscrack View Post
            Metal flex hose on relief valve is a BAD idea
            But approved and encouraged in some areas.

            I would be more concern that it doesn't sound like the drain line is maintaining a positive grade.

            Mark
            "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

            I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Hot water heater

              Well Ive had the pressure gauge on the drain fitting all afternoon and so far the maximum pressure has been 85psi. I just checked the water temp and it was down to 125 degrees but will keep adjusting it until it gets to 120 degrees. I will take the loop out of the discharge line next weekend but I'm going to keep the pressure test gauge on there all week and keep an eye on it. I sure appreciate all the advice you all have given me.

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: Hot water heater

                Hi,
                Sorry for hi-jacking this thread but it seemed the most relevant place. I too recently (2 weeks ago) purchased and installed the GE 40gal 12yr WH. The previous WH was a 10yr old Bradford White mod. MI403T6EN12 that failed. The problem Im having is the T&P valve keeps blowing. Its leaked 3-4 times so far, during the night, 1 of which dumped alot of water (10+ gallons.) I tested the incoming pressure (at outside hose and at water heater,) turns out its static rate is 115 psi . I have the gauge at the water heater now and it reads 145, which explains the blowouts. I dont understand why this didnt occur with the old unit (T&P valve seemed to work) . After doing alot of reading the only thing that might explain it is the heat traps/nipples that come out of the new WH, i read they stop water from expanding out, or something like that. But Im not sure if the old WH didnt have them installed also. Is this correct? Id really appreciate any information thatll explain this....really just want to know.

                Getting back to the high pressure, would an expansion tank solve the problem or am I better off getting one of those pressure regulators that allow backflow. Or better yet, what do you folks reccommend?

                Thanks,
                Sam
                Last edited by sameian; 04-02-2008, 02:02 AM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: Hot water heater

                  Originally posted by sameian View Post
                  Hi,
                  Sorry for hi-jacking this thread but it seemed the most relevant place. I too recently (2 weeks ago) purchased and installed the GE 40gal 12yr WH. The previous WH was a 10yr old Bradford White mod. MI403T6EN12 that failed. The problem Im having is the T&P valve keeps blowing. Its leaked 3-4 times so far, during the night, 1 of which dumped alot of water (10+ gallons.) I tested the incoming pressure (at outside hose and at water heater,) turns out its static rate is 115 psi . I have the gauge at the water heater now and it reads 145, which explains the blowouts. I dont understand why this didnt occur with the old unit (T&P valve seemed to work) . After doing alot of reading the only thing that might explain it is the heat traps/nipples that come out of the new WH, i read they stop water from expanding out, or something like that. But Im not sure if the old WH didnt have them installed also. Is this correct? Id really appreciate any information thatll explain this....really just want to know.

                  Getting back to the high pressure, would an expansion tank solve the problem or am I better off getting one of those pressure regulators that allow backflow. Or better yet, what do you folks reccommend?

                  Thanks,
                  Sam
                  In many areas an expansion tank is now required on all new water heaters which will help with the thermal expansion. However, in addition you also need to adjust or replace your pressure regulator on your water coming into your house. Your pressure should not be over 80 psi and I prefer them down around 60 psi.

                  Mark
                  "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

                  I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: Hot water heater

                    One last time. When you heat water, it expands. If there is no place for the expansion to go, it's going to blow the T&P valve. A TXP (thermal expansion tank) is required BY CODE. It needs to be installed on the cold water inlet line somewhere close to the heater if possible. Back in the days before backflow preventers the expansion was rarely a problem, because the expanded water would back up into the city mains and there is enough volume there to take care of it.
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Re: Hot water heater

                      your static at 115# is the first problem. as mark stated the incoming pressure should be under 80# and i like 65#

                      what is the high pressure/ street pressure?

                      although the heater has heat trap nipples. i rather doubt that they are 100% traps. if they are then there would be an issue.

                      go ahead and get some pressure readings at your laundry valves/ hose bibbs. they should be the same readings as your heater.

                      if the street pressure is anywhere close to 150# or you have a back flow preventer/ check valve on the cold system/ main. you will also need an expansion tank.

                      most importantly, the pressure regulator is shot and needs to be replaced.

                      most regulators do not adjust to 115# so that tells me yours is bad. test the high before the regulator and then test the low side of the regulator. run some water to drop the pressure and watch the pressure gauge as it creeps up.

                      replace the regulator and verify no check/ or back flow preventer. if so you will need the expansion tank.

                      rick.
                      phoebe it is

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: Hot water heater

                        Originally posted by NHMaster3015 View Post
                        One last time. When you heat water, it expands. If there is no place for the expansion to go, it's going to blow the T&P valve. A TXP (thermal expansion tank) is required BY CODE. It needs to be installed on the cold water inlet line somewhere close to the heater if possible. Back in the days before backflow preventers the expansion was rarely a problem, because the expanded water would back up into the city mains and there is enough volume there to take care of it.
                        An expansion tank is not required by code here in NY. Why would one be required if the system is not closed?
                        Last edited by Masterplumb; 04-02-2008, 04:06 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Re: Hot water heater

                          Originally posted by Masterplumb View Post
                          An expansion tank is not required by code here in NY. Why would one be required if the system is not closed?
                          How is the system "open"
                          I am assuming there is a backflow preventer on the main. That "closes" the system. When all the faucets are closed the expanding hot water has no place to go. So it either weeps out the T&P, or out the BFP vent, or the faucets spit for a second when you first open them, or the toilet spits and gurgles when you flush. Do these things happen all the time, No but they happen often enough. Just for kicks install a pressure gauge in the water line. Check it with the heater cold and then again when it's hot. I've seen as much as a 40lb difference. If his incoming pressure is 115 lbs to start with that 40 lbs is going to make a huge difference. Also the PRV though not a BFP it does have a check in it so that also closes the system.

                          Are you sure NY does'nt require an expansion tank.? It's in IPC and UPC
                          sigpic

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                          • #28
                            Re: Hot water heater

                            ontario doesn't require a bfp so no expansion tank is required yet

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Re: Hot water heater

                              Thanks for all the replies....I dont have a pressure regulator on the system right now, at least not one i can see or find. The only thing visible on the line is the water meter. I was wondering if installing a regulator without the backflow check would suffice without adding an expansion tank, or if not, can I get away with one of those smaller tanks, think theyre the 1.5 gallon ones. As for a check valve present, while the pressure was at 145 last night i went upstairs and turned the hot and cold water on for a few seconds to see what happens, the pressure dropped to maybe 140 and slowly started to rise. I guess that means theres a check valve present somehwere? I just checked the bibb just passed the water meter, its at the same reading as the WH right now, 145.The more I look into it the more it seems im going to have to get both the regulator and tank. I still dont understand how the old WH was working under these conditions?

                              One more issue, my wife mentioned that there was barely any hot water this morning when she went for a shower, no one used a major amount of hot water for at least 2 hrs prior to that. This is the second time this happened.
                              What could that be?

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Re: Hot water heater

                                Originally posted by NHMaster3015 View Post
                                How is the system "open"
                                I am assuming there is a backflow preventer on the main. That "closes" the system. When all the faucets are closed the expanding hot water has no place to go. So it either weeps out the T&P, or out the BFP vent, or the faucets spit for a second when you first open them, or the toilet spits and gurgles when you flush. Do these things happen all the time, No but they happen often enough. Just for kicks install a pressure gauge in the water line. Check it with the heater cold and then again when it's hot. I've seen as much as a 40lb difference. If his incoming pressure is 115 lbs to start with that 40 lbs is going to make a huge difference. Also the PRV though not a BFP it does have a check in it so that also closes the system.

                                Are you sure NY does'nt require an expansion tank.? It's in IPC and UPC
                                We dont need a b.f.p. on the main. NY is based SOMEWHAT on the UPC but has their own code.

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