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  • Cast Iron Replacement

    What's the easiest way to remove a vertical (& corroded) cast iron dwv stack from the floor flange? I intend to cut it top and bottom, then remove it, and replace it with pvc & neoprene sleeve, but first I have to get old lead & oakum out, which I've never done before.
    Alternately I could use cast iron again with oakum & lead wool, but because the top piece will still be in place, I'll likely have to splice in a section using sleeves. Is there a better way to do this?
    Regardless I am still going to have to remove whatever is left of the original pipe because it is leaking about a half inch off the point where it enters the floor Y cleanout.

    Thanks.

  • #2
    Re: Cast Iron Replacement

    Originally posted by davidson View Post
    What's the easiest way to remove a vertical (& corroded) cast iron dwv stack from the floor flange? I intend to cut it top and bottom, then remove it, and replace it with pvc & neoprene sleeve, but first I have to get old lead & oakum out, which I've never done before.
    Alternately I could use cast iron again with oakum & lead wool, but because the top piece will still be in place, I'll likely have to splice in a section using sleeves. Is there a better way to do this?
    Regardless I am still going to have to remove whatever is left of the original pipe because it is leaking about a half inch off the point where it enters the floor Y cleanout.

    Thanks.
    Here's some options:

    1) Cut the entire hub off and connect with a no-hub coupling.

    2) If you have to remove the lead, I have found the easiest way is to drill holes in the lead with the largest drill bit you can fit. Then pull the lead out with a "lead pick". If you don't have a lead pick (which you probably don't because leading tools are hard to find these days) you can probably work it out with a slim chisel or strong screw driver.
    the dog

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    • #3
      Re: Cast Iron Replacement

      Let me first say I am not a licensed plumber. However, since our municipality prohibits plastic(sched 40) pipe, we primarily use cast iron. Banded couplings make using CI a snap. If you can use an angle grinder and a screwdriver, most homeowner applications are relatively simple. I added a powder room and a laundry room using CI. It is, however, very important to use the correct banded coupling to assure a proper water tight connection that will not fail.
      there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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      • #4
        Re: Cast Iron Replacement

        see my other post

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        • #5
          Re: Cast Iron Replacement

          Thanks all.
          The photos might make it easier to see what I'm up against.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            Re: Cast Iron Replacement

            i would cut the cast iron riser above the wye with a combination of 4.5'' grinder and a sawzall. at that point you will have a very easy access to the lead joint. you will be able to pick at the lead with a sharp chisel or you can also run the sawzall into the vertical interior of the pipe and cut 3 slits to pry the pipe out. make sure you stuff some rags into the wye to prevent anything or pipe from dropping into the stack. you will need to make a new lead joint with either a hot lead pour or lead wool. sort of like steel wool, but lead instead.

            rick.
            phoebe it is

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            • #7
              Re: Cast Iron Replacement

              Thanks everyone for the input, I apppreciate it. I'll get started at making some easier access first, and then decide whether I want to do this myself or hire it out.

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