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  • #31
    Re: Water Heater

    guy's what's wrong with a transfer pump? only takes minutes to drain a 50. i too will pop the hose bibb if need be. but i also do like adam and run clear water before i shut the main.

    if it's outside i will break off the hose bibb if need be. inside you need to be patient.

    now with my new electric dolly, i'll just drag em out full

    rick.
    phoebe it is

    Comment


    • #32
      Re: Water Heater

      Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK View Post
      guy's what's wrong with a transfer pump? only takes minutes to drain a 50. i too will pop the hose bibb if need be. but i also do like adam and run clear water before i shut the main.

      if it's outside i will break off the hose bibb if need be. inside you need to be patient.

      now with my new electric dolly, i'll just drag em out full

      rick.
      Exactly what I think.

      Rick, can you post the make and model number of your new dolly? I have been looking for one off and on for a couple of years, but never found one that was just right.

      Bruce

      Comment


      • #33
        Re: Water Heater

        Originally posted by westcoastplumber View Post
        adam, next time we are toghether, I will show you my set up, no tank to drag to the heater or nothing, simple, easy, clean and quick.

        trust me, it takes about 10-15 mins to drain the tank, maybe less.
        Over the years I've seen alot of water heaters Robert.Believe me I know what your doing I've done it.I don't like the possible mess or shearing off the plastic drain devices to put on a nipple and ball valve.

        Have a good day

        Comment


        • #34
          Re: Water Heater

          Originally posted by brucestorey View Post
          Exactly what I think.

          Rick, can you post the make and model number of your new dolly? I have been looking for one off and on for a couple of years, but never found one that was just right.

          Bruce
          http://www.escalera.com/models/index.htm

          i have the ms 172. 1200# capacity. i am going to get the big off road tires. it helps on ruff terrain and also takes away the balancing act. believe it or not my non electric big dolly is actually heavier than my new electric dolly. i guess aluminum is lighter than steel

          all i have to do now is practice with an old heater. i will have the supply house save one for me and then play with it before i eat a heater and dolly

          or was it the transfer pump you were interested in

          rick.
          phoebe it is

          Comment


          • #35
            Re: Water Heater

            would any pro here(Rick?) care to list the steps to effectively drain and refill a gas fired water heater? and shoudl it be done annually or semiannualy? The prices I've seen @HD for 50gal gas WHs are getting a little high, so extending the life of existing units would be a good thing. thanks.
            there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

            Comment


            • #36
              Re: Water Heater

              Originally posted by FINER9998 View Post
              would any pro here(Rick?) care to list the steps to effectively drain and refill a gas fired water heater? and shoudl it be done annually or semiannualy? The prices I've seen @HD for 50gal gas WHs are getting a little high, so extending the life of existing units would be a good thing. thanks.
              Just as important is changing the anode rod.
              Buy cheap, buy twice.

              Comment


              • #37
                Re: Water Heater

                understood. any suggestions on how to accomplish that with 2.5' of headroom above the WH? any truth to the rumors i've heard that attempting the replacement of an anode rod 6 years in to the life of a 12 year WH usually results in more problems than the exercise is worth? comments appreciated.
                there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Re: Water Heater

                  They make anode rods that are on chains for this purpose. Imagine 4-12"rods with a link between each one. That's the basic concept.
                  Buy cheap, buy twice.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Re: Water Heater

                    Originally posted by FINER9998 View Post
                    would any pro here(Rick?) care to list the steps to effectively drain and refill a gas fired water heater? and shoudl it be done annually or semiannualy? The prices I've seen @HD for 50gal gas WHs are getting a little high, so extending the life of existing units would be a good thing. thanks.

                    thanks for the title. there are plenty of pros and plenty of opinions. so here's mine.

                    i don't drain the heater. i flush them. i attach a hose to the drain/ hose bibb and run it into a 5 gallon bucket to capture the heavy solids. then i open the bibb and run it till the hose flows clean with no chunks flowing out. you can actually feel the chunks

                    as far as an anode rod goes. personally i don't change them and i don't feel the cost is worth the savings. there are anode rods that are designed to be flexible as they are on a wire rope and in sections so they flex. the old one will easily pull out. the problem is removing the hex nut on an old unit. i think an impact wrench will work. i don't think a breaker bar will do it without spinning the heater. i have a torque multiplier that also works and have done this on a removed / used heater.

                    unless you are doing it yourself, i wouldn't spend the money on hiring a pro to do it. by the time you pay them for the job, you're savings will be dried up.

                    my heater is 18 years old and i flush it 2 times a year never drained it and never changed the anode rod. also keep the heat at a normal 125-130 setting and it will last longer than a heater on high.

                    by the way. out here in southern calif. the cost of heaters are going up $125-150 by the end of the year to meet the new low nox requirements. sort of like a smog law

                    rick.
                    phoebe it is

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Re: Water Heater

                      rick...thanks for the info. when flushing,what do you do with the thermostat on the HWH? is it left @ whatever temp it is set at? is it moved to pilot? or is it turned to off? when you refer to the bibb, is that the water inlet into the HWH from the domestic potable water supply? and when you open the drain valve in the bucket for the first 5 gals, I assume the "bibb" is in the closed position? or were you saying to open the drain valve with the potable water inlet valve into the HWH in the open position and let the water run through the HWH untill it runs clear? thanks for the info.
                      there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Re: Water Heater

                        Originally posted by drtyhands View Post
                        Over the years I've seen alot of water heaters Robert.Believe me I know what your doing I've done it.I don't like the possible mess or shearing off the plastic drain devices to put on a nipple and ball valve.

                        Have a good day


                        I agree with the possible shearing off of plastic hose bibbs, I have tried the air, only a couple times to be truthfull, because I find it dosen't work out for me. The water will spray out of the crack in the tank, rather then push the sediment out of the little hose bibb.

                        I have also left the house water on and tried to blow the sediment out that way, with the house pressure, no dice, so I found the best way was to do it the way I do it, if the tank is vapor locked, then very little water will come out.
                        sigpic

                        Robert

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Re: Water Heater

                          Originally posted by FINER9998 View Post
                          rick...thanks for the info. when flushing,what do you do with the thermostat on the HWH? is it left @ correct-whatever temp it is set at? is it moved to pilot? or is it turned to off? when you refer to the bibb, is that the water inlet into the HWH from the domestic potable water supply?bibb is the drain valve aka- hose bibb. and when you open the drain valve in the bucket for the first 5 gals, I assume the "bibb" is in the closed position? or were you saying to open the drain valve with the potable water inlet valve into the HWH in the open position and let the water run through the HWH untill it runs clear? thanks for the info.

                          open the drain while still keeping the main water on. divert the hose into the bucket to catch the dirt and grit. let the water overflow the bucket until the water is clear. the gunk will be left in the bucket as a sample of what you flushed out.

                          keep the temperature at 125-130. this will keep the mineral content from getting a lot worse. the higher the temperature, the faster the heater will lime up.

                          rick.
                          phoebe it is

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Re: Water Heater

                            I drain most of my water heaters with the nipple, ball valve, hose adapter combination. If I am in a place where breaking the plastic drain could cause damage, then I get out my little giant pump and an adapter I made to go from the hose threads to 3/8" PEX piping. That will slide right through the hot water nipple, into the bottom of the tank above the sediment buildup, and have the tank pumped out in ten to fifteen minutes.

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