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  • sump pump issues

    I recently replaced a sump pump. I purchased a 1/3 HP submersible sump pump made by Coleman. It replaced a 1/3 Craftsman pedistal unit, in which the float failed. A few questions:

    1. Our sump pump basin is made of concrete and is of standard size. The two drain tiles that come into the basin are fairly low in the basin. The bottom of the titles come in at about 5 inches from the bottom of the pit. The old sump pump never was able to draw water out below the tiles and therefore water always remained in the tiles. There is no evidence of any water damage in the basement however. The Coleman unit I purchased clicks on when there is about 8 inches of water and clicks off at about 5 inches, which just barely gets us below the tile. We've had some rain in the area and the new sump is cycling every 10 minutes or so. There is no float adjustment on this new submersible pump. Since the drain tiles are so low, should I have considered buying a pedistal pump, in which I could have let the water get a little higher before kicking in the sump? It doesn't seem like the new pump takes out a lot of water with each cycle. I worry about burnout. The lift head is about 10 ft, but then the discharge pipe travels to the other end of the basement, probably 25 feet or so, making a few turns before discharging out of the house. Why they just didn't discharge the sump out the back of the house I don't know. Instead they made an obstacle course for it to get out the front. Bad part is the old galvanized discharge piping is only 1 inch diameter and having drywall downstairs, wouldn't be easily replaced with a larger diameter.

    2. On the instructions to the new Coleman submersible, it said to drill a 3/16 inch air bleed hole on the PCV discharge pipe between the check valve and the pump. The instructions weren't very good and I drilled the hole above the water line. Problem is when the pump kicks on now, water sprays everywhere. Do I need to have this air bleed hole? If so, where on the discharge line should it be?

    Thanks.

  • #2
    Re: sump pump issues

    the pupose of the air hole is to prevent an air lock and should be drilled about six inches above where your discharge pipe connects to the pump, also your check vavle should be as low as you can get it but still able to service pump or disconnect, discharge piping should really be at least 1-1/4 inch but 1 1/2 wolud be better.ps air hole is drilled below check valve.

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    • #3
      Re: sump pump issues

      I have a similar kind of setup regarding pipes running through the crawlspace for about 25 feet. My problem I discovered was that the back yard is graded so that the water ends up collecting back at the foundation wall when it really rains hard. I now discharge out the front/side and in the Winter I attach a 4.5 inch 10 feet log piece of draintile so it does not freeze.

      Regarding the pump issue, I have tried a number of them, Flotek, Ridgid and Sears, I now have a Zoeller model 98 and it's great, quiet, does not run as often as my old pump. Takes quite a lot of water out on it's pump cycle.

      Oh, and I have a 'Big Dog' battery back-up on a separate discharge line that does go out the back yard.

      I have my air hole about four-five inches above the pipe discharge joint on my pump.

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