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  • Polybutylene replumb claim

    We have just received a 'work authority' from the settlement company for the class action Cox versus Shell suit. We've already had a leak under the slab and that was 'fixed' in '06. I was told at the time by the plumber (and the house builder and the insurance company that didn't pay up) that the suit was 'finished' until I found an ad in the Readers Digest and looked up the info and our house just made the 17 year cut off by two months!

    However, we don't have the opportunity to choose the 'contractor' for the replumb. AND we have to choose whether we want the replumb to be EITHER "SDR 11 CPVC" or "TYPE M COPPER".

    I have tried to read as much as I can from these forums, but still cannot determine the best product and I realise a lot will depend on the contractor of which we have no control except maybe a lot of supervision and an independent inspection prior to 'signing off' a "certificate of completion".

    Under the conditions of the settlement, "We will be entitled to a one year contractor's warrant along with any additional guarantee other than an extended material warranty provided by the Contractor only and no one but the contractor will be required to honor any such warranty or guarantee".

    I only have so many days to submit the form, so I've a lot of research to do and would appreciate any opinions about the replumb. In a perfect world I would choose my own contractor and pay for it myself, but me thinks this would be really foolish! We would like to sell in a year and go back to Australia.

    Thanks in advance for your opinions.

  • #2
    Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

    Type M Copper. That's it. I prefer Type L but M can be fine. Between your choices the copper is the right choice. Period.

    J.C.

    EDIT: I do see that you're in Fla. and I think I recall reading about some H20 there being damaging to copper due to PH levels. You should have your water tested if it's on a well and make adjustments as necessary. Ex. PH neutralizer. If on municipal system, you should be fine.
    Last edited by BobsPlumbing; 12-06-2008, 08:16 PM.

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    • #3
      Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

      Go with copper as JC said but see if you can upgrade to type L if possible even if you have to chip in some to the installer. There are no additional labor costs involved. It will be money well spent.

      Just be prepared to have your house destroyed during this process

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      • #4
        Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

        I agree with JC and Crack

        Go copper and listen to both of the wise gentlemen's advice.

        Okie

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        • #5
          Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

          I agree with the above
          get type "L"
          if possible ! !

          Be sure the installer speaks
          english and knows to REAM
          copper at all cuts
          or other wise you "WILL"
          have trouble down the road with it ! !
          JERRYMAC
          E-MAILJERRYMAC777@GMAIL.COM
          CALIF. LIC. PLBG,HEAT,DRAINS,ELECTRIC,WATER HEATER, BOILER, POOL AND SPA HEATER
          FIRE SPRINKLER CONTRACTOR,
          SINCE JAN. 1989

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          • #6
            Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

            I thought Type M was only for heating systems, and that you needed type L for water (unless it is underground when you need K). What are the actual rules?

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            • #7
              Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

              Originally posted by cpw View Post
              I thought Type M was only for heating systems, and that you needed type L for water (unless it is underground when you need K). What are the actual rules?

              Type L is the standard and can be used anywhere. Type K is sometimes spec 'd for underground but not required. Type M is allowed within the building above ground and underground outside of the building. We always used Type L for everything unless Type K was spec 'd. If the guys put Type K on the pipe rack the end had to be spray painted to identify it.

              Mark
              "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

              I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

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              • #8
                Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

                Originally posted by cpw View Post
                I thought Type M was only for heating systems, and that you needed type L for water (unless it is underground when you need K). What are the actual rules?
                This depends by state.

                In NY, L copper must be used for domestic water and M can be used for heat, and type K for underground.

                Now when I lived in NC , you could use M for domestic water and for heat.

                It all depends on state and county codes.
                Help With Your Pool Or Spa Pump?►WeT HeaD Pump Repair ► Watch Me On YouTube: Pool & Spa Pump Repair TV
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                • #9
                  Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

                  Type M is fine for all Residential Houses in Toronto, Canada (city water). My house is 50 years old...all "M"...and NEVER had a leak.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

                    Originally posted by PlumbingSkool View Post
                    This depends by state.

                    In NY, L copper must be used for domestic water and M can be used for heat, and type K for underground.

                    Now when I lived in NC , you could use M for domestic water and for heat.

                    It all depends on state and county codes.
                    Good point I was only referring to the UPC.

                    Mark
                    "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

                    I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

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                    • #11
                      Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

                      M is still the accepted minimum. And many places have had M for decades without one problem.

                      J.C.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

                        Originally posted by ToUtahNow View Post
                        Good point I was only referring to the UPC.

                        Mark

                        Oh yea, your 100% correct on the UPC

                        BUT you know these crazy states and counties, they always have these weird well you know

                        Originally posted by JCsPlumbing View Post
                        M is still the accepted minimum. And many places have had M for decades without one problem.

                        J.C.

                        I think M would freeze here, Although I guess if it was insulated right it would not bust .......kinda cold here though
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                        • #13
                          Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

                          Originally posted by PlumbingSkool View Post
                          Oh yea, your 100% correct on the UPC

                          BUT you know these crazy states and counties, they always have these weird well you know
                          Don't get me started PSkool on why there isn't one code.

                          J.C.

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                          • #14
                            Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

                            Originally posted by JCsPlumbing View Post
                            Don't get me started PSkool on why there isn't one code.

                            J.C.

                            haha, I am not

                            I feel the same way,
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                            • #15
                              Re: Polybutylene replumb claim

                              Originally posted by PlumbingSkool View Post


                              I think M would freeze here, Although I guess if it was insulated right it would not bust .......
                              If the temp is below freezing, then water will freeze. The thickness of the pipe will have little effect on that. And if a pipe freezed hard, it will split. I suppose in relative terms, a heavier wall pipe has a better chance, but I think if it freezes, it will split somewhere, no matter what grade of pipe.

                              Insulation only slows down freezing. Pipes need to be exposed to heated air in order not to freeze. Pipes in outside walls are vulnerable, but if there is insulation on the outside and just drywall on the inside, there might be enough warmth to prevent freezing. Same for pipes in crawl spaces. Unless the pipe sees significant warmth from the house ( floor ) then when the temp drops low enough, and long enough, it will freeze. Insulation only slows down the process.

                              I think plumbers doing "thaw" calls in cold areas can confirm the relentless effect of freezing temps! Fortunately for me, the last freeze in San Diego was during the last ice age! Well, that's almost true! Funny, but 2 years ago, we had one particularly cold night here in town, and a solar panel on the roof for the pool at my condo burst! It was swimming weather later in the same day!
                              Last edited by lovetheUSA; 12-07-2008, 09:22 AM.

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