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Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

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  • #16
    Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

    I replaced some of these in a "manufactured home" last week. The piping was CPVC, so I used BrassCraft Sharkbite-style slipon stops. More than one of them were leaking, and I'm sure I'll be back there one of these days to replace the ones I haven't done yet.

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    • #17
      Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

      So you replaced a plastic shark bite valve with a metal one? Same thing, different finish. Why not glue a cpvc valve on and make it perminant?
      sigpic

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      • #18
        Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

        Originally posted by NHMaster3015 View Post
        So you replaced a plastic shark bite valve with a metal one? Same thing, different finish. Why not glue a cpvc valve on and make it perminant?
        Then wait the 2 hours required before turning the water back on

        I hope you're on T&M

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        • #19
          Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

          Good Call Dunbar!! Yes Sir, call a plumber who has the tooling and all to fix it right!
          Pat Martinez
          M5 Plumbing Services LLC

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          • #20
            Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

            Originally posted by Herk View Post
            I replaced some of these in a "manufactured home" last week. The piping was CPVC, so I used BrassCraft Sharkbite-style slipon stops. More than one of them were leaking, and I'm sure I'll be back there one of these days to replace the ones I haven't done yet.

            I don't like those valves. They have plastic barrels inside. I remember some other manufacturer trying that years ago and failing. Even the compression valves in my opinion are bad news.

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            • #21
              Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

              It is becoming very disturbing how push-to-connect water distribution has become.


              DIY'rs paradise has entered the fold.
              Northern Kentucky Plumbers Twitter Feed | Plumbing Videos

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              • #22
                Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

                Originally posted by plumberscrack View Post
                Then wait the 2 hours required before turning the water back on

                I hope you're on T&M
                Time is money, Money is time, Time to make some money. Yea I would have waited the 2 hours. Done another call and then come back to check it. Sorry but internally the chrome plated ones are the same as the unplated on that was replaced. gotta agree with Dunbar. In a couple more years we'll be pushing or crimping damn near everything.
                sigpic

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                • #23
                  Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

                  Just to inform about CPVC cure time.



                  J.C.



                  A joint which has cured sufficient to pressure test may not exhibit its full joint strength. Solvent cement set and cure times are a function of pipe size, temperature, and relative humidity. Curing time is shorter for drier environments, smaller sizes, and higher temperatures. Refer to the following table for minimum cure times after the last joint has been made before pressure testing can begin. Use of primer and/or the presence of hot water extends cure time required for pressure testing. Special care should be exercised when assembling FlowGuard Gold® CPVC systems in extremely low temperatures (below 40°F) or extrememly high temperatures (above 100°F). In extremely hot temperatures, make sure both surfaces to be joined are still wet with cement when putting them together.
                  Minimum Cure Prior to Pressure Testing at
                  100 psi for One-Step Cement Ambient Temperature During Cure Period

                  Tube (in.) 1/2 3/4 1 1 1/4 1 1/2 2
                  60°F 10 Min. 10 Min. 10 Min. 10 Min. 15 Min. 15 Min.
                  40°F 10 Min. 15 Min. 15 Min. 15 Min. 15 Min. 15 Min.
                  32°F 15 Min. 15 Min. 20 Min. 20 Min. 30 Min. 30 Min.
                  0°F 30 Min. 30 Min. 30 Min. 30 Min. 45 Min. 60 Min.

                  Pressure Testing

                  Once an installation is completed and cured per the recommendations in Table 22, the system should be pressure tested in accordance with local code requirements.
                  When pressure testing, the system should be filled with water and all air bled from the highest and farthest points in the run. If a leak is found, the joint must be cut out and discarded. A new section can be installed using couplings. During sub-freezing temperatures, water should be blown out of the lines after testing to eliminate potential damage from freezing. When hydrostatic testing is not practical, please refer to the pipe and fittings manufacturer's recommendations.
                  Last edited by BobsPlumbing; 01-04-2009, 11:51 AM.

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                  • #24
                    Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

                    That joint, for me , is hard to accept. Then I realized that the braking system on a semi uses the same concept. (80,000 # @ 75mph ) Push come to shove that joint would be the last resort.

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                    • #25
                      Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

                      Couldn't get my post & table to come out right. But if you look at it a minute diagonally ..... 1/2" and 3/4" CPVC is rated to be tested to 100 PSI after 10 to 30 minutes when using one step solvent. Primer is a little longer.

                      J.C.

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                      • #26
                        Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

                        So, barely enough time for coffee
                        sigpic

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                        • #27
                          Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

                          Originally posted by NHMaster3015
                          So you replaced a plastic shark bite valve with a metal one? Same thing, different finish. Why not glue a cpvc valve on and make it perminant?
                          I might point out that it wasn't the Sharkbite-type connection that was leaking. It was the pressed-on supply tube. Being a manufactured home, they see no reason to move the stops to the back of the cabinet, but just put them right near the front where they get banged up all the time.

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                          • #28
                            Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

                            Oh well, why didn't you say it was a trailer in the first place.
                            sigpic

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                            • #29
                              Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

                              Thanks everyone, especially to DivinePlumbling and ToUtahNow. I was able to replace it myself over the weekend and I would like to share my experience. Total cost=$10!! $6 for the valve and $4 for the line. I was able to take the old one off by twisting it off counter clockwise as someone had suggested. I was ready to crack/cut it off but tried twisting first....came off very easily. It left some very very fine threads on the pipe due to the "teeth ring" inside. I cleaned it up the pipe with a very fine sandpaper. I tried the push on connect but found it a little "wobbly" even after pushing it with all my might. So I tried the one with the nut and copper ferrule, which after tightening, felt very secure. After reading the directions, I tightened it one half turn. Turned on the water to the house, found a tiny droplet at the connection, then tightened it 1/4 turn again. I think that fixed it. Anyway, here it is....




                              This is what is inside the old valve...





                              So from looking at it, it shouldn't have mattered what direction in twisting it off. It has been 2 days and there is still no leak. {crossing fingers}. This valve is all over the house, so next time, I know how to tackle the problem.

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                              • #30
                                Re: Help!! Replacing a leaky plastic toilet supply shut-off valve (w/ picture)

                                Cut that label off.

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