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Soldering Brass ball valves

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  • #16
    Re: Soldering Brass ball valves

    Originally posted by snysco View Post
    I tried heating just the pipe my results are pretty much the same. .

    That is not the answer. The heat should be applied to the heaviest part, in this case the socket. Apply flame to the pipe may result in the pipe being hot enough to cause flow when you touch the solder, but no bond to the socket. Valve manufacturers sometimes recommend wrapping a damp rag carefull aroung the center of the body to avoid heat build up. This must be done judiciously to avoid drawing heat off the socket.


    • #17
      Re: Soldering Brass ball valves

      Originally posted by APHCO View Post
      From what I can see, it looks like a good joint. What do you mean "integrate it into my existing line"? Isn't it soldered into the copper line that is to be controlled by the valve
      I have a few pieces that can be assembled before I put it in the main line. I think I am going to leave it how it is now, and try it. Hopefully I get no leaks.


      • #18
        Re: Soldering Brass ball valves

        Tuff to teach someone how to solder online... I notice we get alot of engineers around here

        first rule: Clean / Clean and Clean again (sanding cloth)

        second rule: flux (proper flux and solder combination)

        third rule: nothing in lines (no water)

        fourth rule: proper application of heat ( This is learned with practice due to different material types, torch types and tip sizes and conditions)

        Nine times out of ten if you do not solder alot you are burning your flux (getting things to hot ) Dont worry about trying to get a strong draw by flame location just place the heat where you need the solder and remove heat once solder runs... Go ahead and wrap the valve in a damp cloth as well

        If all else fails Im sure Home Depot sells a shark bite ball valve


        • #19
          Re: Soldering Brass ball valves

          i think it's time to call a plumber.

          but if you still feel like you want to solder this, here's a couple of suggestions.

          i would practice soldering on some fittings first. my journeyman had me do that when i first got into the trade.

          i looks like you cooked (burnt) the flux. the black residue, yup that's burnt flux. solder won't run.

          don't move the joint while it's cooling. you'll crack the solder. wiping is good if done properly.

          the bubbles you described could be from steam. hopefully they won't leak and potentally cause major bucks in water damage.

          good luck.


          if i remember correctly, 10 or 15 practice solder joints before my journeyman would let me go anywhere near a water pipe. after i completed each joint, i cut the fitting lengthwise, hammered it flat and seperated the pipe from the fitting to reveal the solder.


          • #20
            Re: Soldering Brass ball valves

            Thought you should know this also: Sometimes joints that look perfect will leak, sometimes decades later!

            Sometimes terrible looking joints will never leak. Sometimes joints that were not even soldered or were soldered improperly, will not leak, ever.

            Don't go by external looks, turn on the pressure and check it out.