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  • radiant heat

    in a master suite, that currently has a toe kick heater as the bathroom heater and 3/4" copper BB in the adjoining bedroom, if radiant heat were desired as a replacement for the toe kick heater, could it be added to the existing MBR suite zone? or would the radiant heat need to be set up on its own zone?
    there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

  • #2
    Re: radiant heat

    for the radiant floor to replace the toe kick you would need a seperate zone. the seperate zone would require thermostat, circulator and a tempering valve. due to the fact that you cant send the same temperature water to radiant as you would baseboard heat. i would assume you would be useing the screw up transfer plates. so you would only be able to run aprox. 110 degree water trough that. also if you do end up doing that dont forget to insulate the floor after putting up the plates otherwise you will have a radiant ceiling instead.

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    • #3
      Re: radiant heat

      thst's pretty much what i thought, but i have a further question. could the radiant bath heat alternatively be set up as a slave to the bedroom zone? i understand that the bathroom would never get hotter than the existing controlling thermostat, but it might be a little simpler in this application. any thoughts?
      there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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      • #4
        Re: radiant heat

        If it is to be a staple up zone you will probably be running close to 180 degrees anyway so tempering is not that much of an issue. It would have to be run as it's own zone though, all the way back to the boiler with it's own circulator.
        sigpic

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        • #5
          Re: radiant heat

          i thought water that hot was too warm for radiant heat that was under wood or tile?
          there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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          • #6
            Re: radiant heat

            If'n you don't run it that high (at least 160) you won't get no heat out of it, specially if there's carpet on the floor.
            sigpic

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            • #7
              Re: radiant heat

              then if the water temp. going to the radiant tubing is the same as the water temp coming out of the boiler and going to the rest of the house copoper BB, what would prevent the replacement of the toe kick heater with tubing under the bathroom floor as part of the existing master suite heating zone?
              there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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              • #8
                Re: radiant heat

                You max heating loop should be less than 300' IIRC, you will eat up 300 L.F. of tubing in the florr REAL FAST! Your best bet is to just add a new zone, besides how will you control the flow through the floor, it will need its own thermostat anyway.

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                • #9
                  Re: radiant heat

                  in long hand, for the amateur, what does 300' IIRC mean? regarding controlling teh flow through the floor, if i do as NHM suggested, and don't worry about a mixing valve to control water temperature into the pex, couldn't the pex be "inserted" between the supply and return side of the existing master suite loop. the pex radiant portion of the loop would take the place of the kicker. so the master suite zone wouold come out of the boiler, transition to pex for master bath radiant and then transition back to copper on its way back to the boiler.
                  there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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                  • #10
                    Re: radiant heat

                    IIRC

                    If I Remember Correctly

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                    • #11
                      Re: radiant heat

                      I'll go out on a limb on this and probably get slapped around but, truth is, I suspect you probably could get away with doing just that. You would need to keep the loop to 300' or less, but unless you have one huge bathroom I'll bet you will be under that anyway. Just remember to super insulate under the piping. If the toe kick comes off a venturi tee you are going to want to get rid of it because of the restrictive nature of them and you will need a circulator on that loop. Also the feed and return pipes will need to be spaced no more than 8" apart where they tie back into the main loop. Be sure to include a purge and balance valve on the return side.
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        Re: radiant heat

                        thanks for the info. what is the reason for the additional circulator? my premise is to insert the radiant tubing into an exiting heating loop, which has its own circulator, in place of an existing toe kick heater. i understand that venturi tees are to be bypassed.
                        lastly, i don't inderstand the 8" restriction on tubing placement, nor the balance valve on the return. any additional info would be appreciated.
                        there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: radiant heat

                          anyone care to provide some information regarding the issues raised in my last post? thanks.
                          there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.

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