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  • Tankless install

    1
    Last edited by rjm78; 01-18-2010, 07:22 PM.

  • #2
    Re: Tankless install

    rjm too bad you didn't come here before the tankless

    sorry, but can't help you as your wife was correct. so was mine and i put one in my house a year ago just to prove a point i already knew.

    you also need a hot water shut off if you ever plan on flushing your heat exchanger.'

    if you had a lime/ mineral build up in your water heater, i hate to tell you, but you will also have one in your 1/2'' copper heat exchanger.

    140,000 is a very small unit especially in cold country.

    enjoy the responses.

    rick.
    phoebe it is

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Tankless install

      I would have a local inspector have a look at that install, and tell you what correctiosn need to be made. Also if its the RTG-53 thats 5.3 gallons at a 45º temp rise, you only going to get 3.1 gpm @ a 77º temp rise.

      Attached Files
      Last edited by SewerRatz; 01-16-2010, 07:54 PM. Reason: added note about temp rise
      Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
      Ron's Facebook
      A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
      Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
      Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Tankless install

        As Rick said you will have to flush this heater. In our area about once a year is what is needed to delime the heat exchanger. A service valve kit that Rheem sells would of mad things real simple for you. It is not to late to add them, you have plenty of room. Also it will get your relief valve closer to the heater and before the turn off valve as you can see in the below picture. So inspectors will want you to install a T&P valve which will require a brass nipple and a brass coupling to extend the T&P valve out just enough so the probe still will be in the flow of hot water.

        Also since it is installed on the on the second floor the code requires a vacuum relief valve installed on the cold side of the water heater. The way I do it is I put a brass tee right on the water heater a short nipple then the isolation valve. on the branch of the tee I piped to the side of the heater then flagged pole the relief valve above the heater.
        Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
        Ron's Facebook
        A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
        Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
        Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Tankless install

          1
          Last edited by rjm78; 01-18-2010, 07:22 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Tankless install

            I would filter the incoming water myself. The screen/filter in the unit does not count.

            J.C.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Tankless install

              No inspectors... I love hearing them words, especially when it comes time for a home owner to sell their home and it gets gigged and they want a licensed plumber to make all the repairs.

              The flushing is something that has to be done, and would be easer with a relief valve kit. As for what your local inspector wants for a relief valve you will have to ask him. Some inspectors want a T&P, others are happy with the pressure relief valve. If some one tries to run hot water while you are in the shower you will be in for a surprise when it comes to the flow rates. If you want to see what I am talking about turn on your tub full hot, run the wash full hot, and turn on the kitchen sink full hot. Let me know if it all runs full flow or not.

              As for the vacuum relief valve. Where was your tank heater installed? on the second floor? or in the lowest part of the home? If it was on the second floor and did not have one it did not meet code. And no this is not something new, its been in Illinois plumbing code as long as I have been a plumber (20+ years) and before that. All I am trying to do is save you lots of grief down the road. Take my advice or leave it I do not care either way.




              Originally posted by rjm78 View Post
              I bought the valve kit but for 80 bucks i brought it back and got the material for 30. As far aas the gpm, your right but I did know that. I honestly have no issue with that though, it works perfect and in the end, that's all that matters right?
              Now, the relief is to be installed on the hot water line but it doesn't say how har away. Also, I would like to know, about the flushing. I had a "caviar" like congeled green blob which was clogging the tank before. I know THAT isn't going to get stuck any more. I assume you refering to a coating of lime right?
              Vac break wasn't there before and I assume it's a new code. In the houses I've been in I haven't seen one but of course that doesn't matter.
              FYI I'm in the Fox valley area and I certainly don't know the codes. Oh and yea, no inspectors.....I'm not so fond of that when it's my own house. I'm not that bad of a hack, but I guess the infor is worth the hassel. Yea, yea, they serve a good purpose but come on, PIA
              Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
              Ron's Facebook
              A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
              Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
              Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Tankless install

                Its a good thing you asked about the location of the pressure relief valve. I just looked up the state code and they must of updated it, and it adresses tankless heaters now.

                Section 890.1220 Hot Water Supply and Distribution

                8) Direct Fired Instantaneous Heaters. Direct fired instantaneous water heaters shall be equipped with a thermostatic mixing valve or valves which conform to ASSE 1017-1999. A pressure relief valve shall be installed on or adjacent to the heater. A properly sized temperature and pressure relief valve, based upon the energy input rating of the heater, shall be installed on the tempered line with the temperature sensing element immersed in the tempered water line as close as possible to the mixing valve.
                Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
                Ron's Facebook
                A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
                Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
                Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Tankless install

                  Originally posted by rjm78
                  The tank was on the second floor too. The whole subdivision is like that too as far as I know. Any ways, doesn't mean it's right.
                  I do thank you for help BTW, it's why I posted. As far as flow is concerned........I know it'll get worse the more you run but I'm fine with that. Besides, is 1 Gpm that big a diff? Whats the avg washer gpm and fawcett gpm, they say the shower is 2.5 avg. That about right?
                  Faucets are 2 gpm a washer can pull a full 3 to 4 gpm
                  Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
                  Ron's Facebook
                  A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
                  Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
                  Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Tankless install

                    Originally posted by SewerRatz View Post
                    Its a good thing you asked about the location of the pressure relief valve. I just looked up the state code and they must of updated it, and it adresses tankless heaters now.

                    Section 890.1220 Hot Water Supply and Distribution

                    8) Direct Fired Instantaneous Heaters. Direct fired instantaneous water heaters shall be equipped with a thermostatic mixing valve or valves which conform to ASSE 1017-1999. A pressure relief valve shall be installed on or adjacent to the heater. A properly sized temperature and pressure relief valve, based upon the energy input rating of the heater, shall be installed on the tempered line with the temperature sensing element immersed in the tempered water line as close as possible to the mixing valve.
                    Part of that code seems like it needs to be rewritten. As it reads to me they are requiring you to install a Pressure Relief Valve and a T&P.

                    And it looks like you'll have to install a thermostatic mixing valve as well.

                    Or is it excluded if the dwelling has pressure balancing valves installed?

                    Thanks.

                    J.C.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Tankless install

                      Originally posted by rjm78
                      The tank was on the second floor too. The whole subdivision is like that too as far as I know. Any ways, doesn't mean it's right.
                      I do thank you for help BTW, it's why I posted. As far as flow is concerned........I know it'll get worse the more you run but I'm fine with that. Besides, is 1 Gpm that big a diff? Whats the avg washer gpm and fawcett gpm, they say the shower is 2.5 avg. That about right?
                      Read this thread.

                      http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30385

                      J.C.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Tankless install

                        Originally posted by JCsPlumbing View Post
                        Part of that code seems like it needs to be rewritten. As it reads to me they are requiring you to install a Pressure Relief Valve and a T&P.

                        And it looks like you'll have to install a thermostatic mixing valve as well.

                        Or is it excluded if the dwelling has pressure balancing valves installed?

                        Thanks.

                        J.C.
                        What they want is a pressure relief valve before the thermostatic mixing valve. And yes they want a Thermostatic mixing valve installed just in case. And they want the T&P installed on the tempered side of the thermostatic mixing valve again just in case. Its all about safety.
                        Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
                        Ron's Facebook
                        A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
                        Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
                        Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Tankless install

                          Oh I forgot to post the part about the vacuum relief valve.
                          Section 890.1230 Safety Devices
                          f) Vacuum Relief Valve. Where a hot water storage tank or water heater is located at an elevation above the fixture outlets in the hot water system, or if the storage tank or water heater is bottom fed, a vacuum relief valve as listed in Appendix A, Table A (Approved Standards for Plumbing Appliances/Appurtenances/Devices) shall be installed on the storage tank or heater.
                          Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
                          Ron's Facebook
                          A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
                          Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
                          Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Tankless install

                            Here is a link of a thread I posted a picture of a recent tankless install. You will see the isolation valves, the nipple with coupling so I was able to use a T&P valve, and on the cold side the brass tee with a pipe going behind the gas line with a tee pointed down for the expansion tank (required due to RPZ at the meter), and then the flag pole pipe with the black vacuum relief on top of that.

                            http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...&postcount=167
                            Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
                            Ron's Facebook
                            A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
                            Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
                            Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Tankless install

                              Originally posted by SewerRatz View Post
                              Here is a link of a thread I posted a picture of a recent tankless install. You will see the isolation valves, the nipple with coupling so I was able to use a T&P valve, and on the cold side the brass tee with a pipe going behind the gas line with a tee pointed down for the expansion tank (required due to RPZ at the meter), and then the flag pole pipe with the black vacuum relief on top of that.

                              http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/sho...&postcount=167
                              Where's the thermostatic valve?

                              J.C.

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