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  • Zoeller M57 Pump Question

    I have a 3 yr old Zoeller M57 Pump and it stays running. I can install a new switch if I can find a good price. But my question is can I turn this into a Non Automatic and install a Piggy-Back? Reason being we have so much ground water now that it cycles like crazy and I would like to have a tether float mounted higher for less discharges and less ware and tear. Zoeller says can't be done! I thought I could ditch the old switch and float and buy a cap for a N model with no switch hole. Has anyone ever attempted this and how did it work out?Thanks,Rick

  • #2
    Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

    I see no problem making that happen; pull the cap off, wire it so it's 'if it's got power it runs', throw the float away, slicone up the hole for the rod for the switch, plug it into a pigtail float, off you go.
    This is my reminder to myself that no good will ever come from discussing politics or religion with anyone, ever.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

      i've done it with the larger m267 models. no need to remove the rod. this way you still have the water proof seal and as ace says, just rewire the inside by bypassing the switch.

      are you sure it's a bad switch or could it be a sticky float?

      i can't see why zoller says it won't work. they offer their pumps in both automatic and non automatic. personally, i don't like tether floats inside of small sumps as they have a tendency to hang up.

      rick.
      phoebe it is

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

        Rick great name Thanks for the replies guys. How do I wire it so that it stays on? What wires do I wire together? The float is not the problem the switch must be fried it just stays on but I don't trust it for the long haul like that with a separate tether float. What do you think? Thanks,Rick

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

          very simple. the switch is 1 wire in and 1 wire out. i believe they are both black. just disconnect the in and out black wire from the switch and reconnect them together.

          it will be pretty self explanatory when you have it apart.

          the pump is bolted together with 4- 3/8'' socket hex head screws. just be careful not to damage the gasket or the metal case when you tap nor pry the cover off.

          rick.
          phoebe it is

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          • #6
            Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

            Rick, I am leaning toward removing the switch and reattach the power wires and ad on a piggy-back that way there is only one switch that could fail not two....Thanks,Rick

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

              1 thing that's nice with the piggyback is that you can easily bypass the switch and pump down the pit

              rick.
              phoebe it is

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

                Just an update: I removed the float and left in the switch arm in the cap so I wouldn't have to seal it up. I removed the switch from the M-57 and made up my own electrical contacts to slip over the Pos. and Neg. poles for power to the pump. I made up my own gasket out of some thin rubber gasket material. I then changed out the stripped SS screws to hardened Alan screws and snugged up the cap. I bought a additional tether piggyback float and reinstalled pump and the thing runs like a tank. I have some dissembling pics. If any one is interested let me know. If not thanks for all the replies and helpful info. I don't think the original switch was bad, but this application suits me better. Now I have some extra parts. Switch,float & Rubber guide shaft Rick

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

                  Originally posted by smaerd58 View Post
                  I have a 3 yr old Zoeller M57 Pump and it stays running. I can install a new switch if I can find a good price. But my question is can I turn this into a Non Automatic and install a Piggy-Back? Reason being we have so much ground water now that it cycles like crazy and I would like to have a tether float mounted higher for less discharges and less ware and tear. Zoeller says can't be done! I thought I could ditch the old switch and float and buy a cap for a N model with no switch hole. Has anyone ever attempted this and how did it work out?Thanks,Rick

                  I think it will be easier to buy a pump for your case than to alter the existing .... like Litte Giant Pumps
                  Plumbing is my life!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

                    Originally posted by tubingman View Post
                    I think it will be easier to buy a pump for your case than to alter the existing .... like Litte Giant Pumps
                    Are you for real or are you a Little Giant Rep in disguise?

                    Little Giant pumps are made in China.

                    I'm not impressed by them at all. The float and switch are all plastic and very thin and flimsy.

                    For submersible pumps, Zoeller or Hydromatic all the way.

                    BTW, if you really want a TANK of a pump, check these out (no I'm not a rep, just a faithful purchaser of their product):

                    http://tramcopump.com/ResidentialDetails.cfm?ProdID=28

                    10 year warranty. Nuff said.

                    Tramco is pump speak for TANK. I inspected a 55 year old pump yesterday. Just needed a couple drops of oil.


                    Also, well done getting your Zoeller back in shape.

                    -Chris

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

                      Originally posted by Swade Plumbing View Post
                      Are you for real or are you a Little Giant Rep in disguise?

                      Little Giant pumps are made in China.

                      I'm not impressed by them at all. The float and switch are all plastic and very thin and flimsy.

                      For submersible pumps, Zoeller or Hydromatic all the way.

                      BTW, if you really want a TANK of a pump, check these out (no I'm not a rep, just a faithful purchaser of their product):

                      http://tramcopump.com/ResidentialDetails.cfm?ProdID=28

                      10 year warranty. Nuff said.

                      Tramco is pump speak for TANK. I inspected a 55 year old pump yesterday. Just needed a couple drops of oil.


                      Also, well done getting your Zoeller back in shape.

                      -Chris
                      Kind of funny you mention tramco to get off the subject a little I had a job in north riverside 2 weeks after all the flooding in july he had a 3" tramco pump that was same age as house that failed he had an over head sewer so his pit was combo storm and sanitary for 1 toilet, 1 lav sink, 1 laundry tub, & 1 floor drain house was 65 years old and so was the pump. I sugested replaceing with a new tramco and the home owner says NO WAY just put in submbersubul ejector 2" so I explain he has a 3" tramco now and is down sizeing to 2" zoller and he said so its a pump and I am moveing in a month anyway so ok in went the 2" zoller and I wasnt to happy but thats what he wanted
                      Last edited by post plumber; 09-30-2010, 11:05 PM.
                      SMELLS LIKE $$$$$$ TO ME

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

                        Originally posted by Swade Plumbing View Post
                        Are you for real or are you a Little Giant Rep in disguise?

                        Little Giant pumps are made in China.

                        I'm not impressed by them at all. The float and switch are all plastic and very thin and flimsy.

                        For submersible pumps, Zoeller or Hydromatic all the way.

                        BTW, if you really want a TANK of a pump, check these out (no I'm not a rep, just a faithful purchaser of their product):

                        http://tramcopump.com/ResidentialDetails.cfm?ProdID=28

                        10 year warranty. Nuff said.

                        Tramco is pump speak for TANK. I inspected a 55 year old pump yesterday. Just needed a couple drops of oil.


                        Also, well done getting your Zoeller back in shape.

                        -Chris
                        Chris I agree with you the Tramco is a tank compared to a Zoeller or Hydromatic, but a Weil is the real tank of pumps.
                        Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
                        A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
                        Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
                        Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

                          Originally posted by SewerRatz View Post
                          Chris I agree with you the Tramco is a tank compared to a Zoeller or Hydromatic, but a Weil is the real tank of pumps.
                          I smell a wager coming up
                          Weil makes a good product (and always has), but their customer service is kind of shaky IMO.

                          Tramco's service is phenomenal. I had their their shop supervisor out with me on a couple of jobs recently to help me troubleshoot the electrical relays controls on a couple 50 year flood control systems. No charge to me or the customer for his time.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Zoeller M57 Pump Question

                            From my research on the Web, failure of the float switch seems to be one of the most frequent problems with sump pumps, regardless of brand. Some manufacturers recommend replacing the switch every two years. I suspect the failures are due to contact pitting and welding from arcing, every time the switch opens and closes. Other than using massive silver alloy contacts in the switch, greatly increasing its cost, the best way to prevent this would be to bridge the switch contacts with an R-C snubber, such as a Quencharc from ITW Paktron, and/or a metal oxide varistor (MOV), with appropriate ratings for the motor size and operating voltage. These devices "soak up" the energy from the electromagnetic field in the motor, suppressing the arc, and greatly extend the life of switch and relay contacts. They're not very expensive, but pump manufacturers are either too stingy to include them in their designs, or they don't have the technical expertise on their staffs to do so. Considering the peace of mind it would provide, adding $5-$10 to the cost of the pump assembly would be a fair trade-off.

                            I've retrofitted rocker and toggle switches in electronic equipment with such devices a number of times. Where the switches used to make a disconcerting "poof" sound as the arc formed and collapsed, now they only make a satisfying "click" sound. Cheap switches that should have died 20 years ago are still going strong.

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