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  • #16
    Re: shower valve question...

    Originally posted by Devine Plumbing View Post
    It is even possible to solder the male adapters into the valve body with the cartridge removed.
    What the he!! are you talking about? Did you ever get that plumbing license?

    J.C.

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: shower valve question...

      Originally posted by adroga View Post
      I dissasembled the cartridge inserts before attempting to solder.

      I was given a tip to try soldering it in and it seemed like a good idea until I tried it.

      I appreciate the help, but will resort to soldering the rest of the connections and using tape for the threaded connector.

      Guess I am over my head, because I have never done it before.. well I was just asking for advice and havent taken anything apart so no damage done.

      I guess no one has ever tried to do something by themselves in this forum right?

      PS thanks for the advice to utahnow.. that was the plan after 1 attempt at soldering the threaded connectors... hope I dont sound too sarcastic I was only joking..
      No problem I just hope it works out for you.

      Mark
      "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

      I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: shower valve question...

        Originally posted by JCsPlumbing View Post
        What the he!! are you talking about? Did you ever get that plumbing license?

        J.C.
        My guess is NO, but he still has his website.
        The Other Rick

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: shower valve question...

          another quick question about the shower valve if someone can give me a hand.

          I soldered in two ball valves to disconnect the hot and cold supply to the shower(access door from the kitchen cabinets).. and in the process of dry fitting everything.

          The front of the valve (after cartridge and black plastic plate installed) says flush with finished surface.

          Is it safe to assume that this means flush to the outside of the backerboard, thinset and tile?

          I have a 9/16th gap (not including tile and thinset) to reduce to bring the valve in if so, do I solder a couple of 45 degree fittings and make an offset or push in the valve a bit?

          Thanks!

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: shower valve question...

            Originally posted by adroga View Post
            another quick question about the shower valve if someone can give me a hand.

            I soldered in two ball valves to disconnect the hot and cold supply to the shower(access door from the kitchen cabinets).. and in the process of dry fitting everything.

            The front of the valve (after cartridge and black plastic plate installed) says flush with finished surface.

            Is it safe to assume that this means flush to the outside of the backerboard, thinset and tile?

            I have a 9/16th gap (not including tile and thinset) to reduce to bring the valve in if so, do I solder a couple of 45 degree fittings and make an offset or push in the valve a bit?

            Thanks!
            Yes that is the setback I warned had to be 100% or you might have to redo it. There is a little room for a mistake but even then things look off. I would also be careful not to just push the valve in and use fittings instead.

            Mark
            "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

            I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: shower valve question...

              Luckily nothing is soldered on yet except the shutoff valves.

              Thanks for the warning because I thought of your warning in the process of dry fitting.

              If the original gap is 1 1/16th too far out, - 1/2 " (backerboard thickness) = 9/16th.

              The old tile is a little more than 1/4 inch(didnt pick up the new one yet) is it safe to assume a 1/16" to 1/8" thickness for thinset resulting in 3/16th to 1/4" gap.

              Can this be rectified with the play in the copper pipes or do I really need offsets?

              I am thinking 1/4 inch max gap with about 2 feet of vertical run of copper pipe is probably ok to push back just a little to correct it.

              I know for a pro this is probably unacceptable, but for my purposes wont be too horrible.

              Your honest opinion is appreciated.

              And I must thank you for your help, its greatly appreciated.

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: shower valve question...

                The instructions which came with your valve will give you the + or - numbers which are acceptable from the plastic plate. The finish trim looks best at the designed depth but there is some play. Stressing your pipes to compensate is never a good idea but you can get away with it if there are not a lot of fittings and you have enough vertical length.

                Mark
                "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

                I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: shower valve question...

                  ok...

                  thank you.

                  have a great weekend!

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: shower valve question...

                    just want to thank you guys for the help.

                    I soldered everything last fri and so far it looks perfect, I can almost even say the joints look perfect, no leaks.

                    I just have to start closing in the wall and tiling now.

                    Comment

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