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Where to place brackets for cast iron riser

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  • Where to place brackets for cast iron riser

    Hello all,

    I am replacing the ABS in my two story home due to some defective 1980's vintage pipe. I decided to replace the drains with no-hub cast iron and use new ABS for the vents. Everything above the first floor will be new. The ABS in the crawl space will remain since it does not appear to be cracked. I decided to use cast iron because the ABS drains were quite noisy and no-hub cast iron seems easier to work with rather than plastic.

    My question:
    A 3" soil stack comes through the first floor sole plate into a 3 x 2 wye at floor level. So, I'll have about 4 inches of 3" ABS to connect a transition coupling to the cast iron wye. Then a 7' length of cast iron will connect onto the cast iron wye to travel vertical to the service the 2nd floor bathrooms.

    I intend to install a support bracket on the cast iron wye at the first floor sole plate and I will install two brackets on the 7' vertical 3" riser that connects to the cast iron wye to make sure it stays aligned. Is this overkill?

    Are there any other threads that discuss supporting cast iron in residential applications? I've read alot about supporting cast iron, especially closet bends, but would like to know more. Anyone out there with residential no-hub cast iron experience?

    Thanks,
    Rick

  • #2
    Re: Where to place brackets for cast iron riser

    every floor level is what's required. i would install a couple blocks at the plate to get you above the abs and put a riser clamp on the cast to support it. then another one at the next floor level. use some sticky felt to help isolate the transition of noise.

    rick.
    phoebe it is

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Where to place brackets for cast iron riser

      Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK View Post
      use some sticky felt to help isolate the transition of noise.

      rick.
      GREAT idea!!!! Like rain the good ideas just keep coming.

      BTW: Never saw the spiral threaded gizmo on the inside of a Fluidmaster 400 before. The other day I saw the thread where the balcock was screaming, and I happened to have a similar customer complaint. When I removed the closet supply tube to replace the 400 out fell the spiral to the floor. Plunk.

      (I still replaced the balcock though just to be safe.)
      Time flies like an arrow.

      Fruit flies like a banana.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Where to place brackets for cast iron riser

        Plumber Rick,
        Thanks for the reply. The cast iron riser will 90 at the top plate of the first floor and run horizontal under the 2nd floor bathrooms. I intend to install hangers for the horizontal cast, connecting the hangers to the floor joists or blocking.

        My original post indicates that I will install a bracket on the wye at the first floor sole plate. The wye is the first piece of cast iron that connects to the ABS at floor level. Then the 7' cast riser which will have two brackets, will connect onto the wye. So, my concern is about the bracket on the wye. Is it o.k. to bracket that as it will also support the cast riser?

        Thanks for the tip about the sticky felt. I was wondering about some type of noise insulator on the brackets.

        Thanks,
        Rick

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Where to place brackets for cast iron riser

          This is from my code book here in Illinois. It may help.
          Section 890.910 Hangers, Anchors and Supports
          a) General. Hangers, anchors and supports shall be of material and strength to support the piping and its contents and maintain its proper alignment. Hangers, anchors and supports shall be securely attached to the building construction at sufficient intervals to support the piping and its contents. Provisions shall be made to allow for expansion, contraction, structural settlement and vibrations. Installation shall be in accordance with manufacturers' directions if more stringent than this Part.

          b) Material. Hangers, anchors and supports shall be of metal or other material strong enough to support the piping when full. Piers may be of concrete, brick or other approved materials.
          Section 890.920 Vertical Piping
          a) Attachment. Vertical piping shall be secured at intervals to keep the pipe in alignment and carry the weight of the pipe at its maximum capacity. Stacks shall be supported at their base and, if over two (2) stories in height, shall be supported at each floor by floor clamps. (See Appendix G: Illustrations A and B.)

          b) Cast Iron Soil Pipe. Cast iron soil pipe shall be supported at not less than every story height and at its base. Hubless or compression gasket joint shall be supported at not less than every story height, at its base and at intervals to keep the pipe in alignment and to adequately support the weight of the pipe at its maximum capacity. (See Appendix G: Illustrations A and B.)

          ~~~SNIP~~~

          f) Plastic Pipe. Hangers and straps shall not compress, distort, cut or abrade the piping and shall allow free movement of the pipe. Wire pipe hooks shall not be used to support plastic pipe. Restraining joints and expansion joints shall be installed as required. All vertical piping shall be maintained in straight alignment with supports at each floor level or at intervals of ten (10) feet, whichever is less. Trap arms in excess of three (3) feet shall be supported as close as possible to the trap.
          Section 890.930 Horizontal Piping
          a) Support. Horizontal piping shall be supported at sufficiently close intervals to keep the piping in alignment and prevent sagging.

          b) Cast Iron Soil Pipe. Where joints occur, suspended cast iron pipe shall be supported within 18 inches of each hub or joint and at not more than 5 foot intervals; however, pipe exceeding 5 feet in length may be supported at not more than 10 foot intervals. Hubless or compression gasket joints must be supported at least at every other joint except that when the developed length between hubless or compression gasket joints exceeds 4 feet, supports shall be provided at each joint. Supports shall be placed on or immediately adjacent to the joint. Suspended pipes shall be braced to prevent horizontal movement.

          ~~~SNIP~~~

          f) Plastic Pipe. Hangers and straps shall not compress, distort, cut or abrade the piping and shall allow free movement of the pipe. Wire pipe hooks shall not be used to support plastic pipe. Restraining joints and expansion joints shall be installed as required. All horizontal piping shall be supported at intervals of not more than 4 feet, and at ends of branches, and at changes of direction or elevation. Trap arms in excess of 3 feet shall be supported as close as possible to the trap.
          Ron Hasil Lic #058-160417
          A-Archer Sewer & Plumbing specializing in:
          Tankless Water Heaters | Drain and Sewer Cleaning
          Sump and Ejector Pumps | Backflow RPZ Testing

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Where to place brackets for cast iron riser

            SewerRatz,
            Thanks for the info.

            I just realized that there isn't any free space on the wye to use my clamp. The clamp that I have is 1" wide, 1/4" thick and 12" long. After installing my couplings onto the wye there won't be any area of the wye to use my clamp without interferring with the couplings. I might try plumber's tape wrapped around the wye and secured to a wooden block. Then I'll clamp the riser just above the wye.

            I just placed the wye on top of the ABS to see if there would be any deflection downward and there wasn't any. I guess the wye isn't that heavy and the ABS is stronger than I thought. So, it should be ok without a clamp. The riser will be supported with clamps right above the wye.

            Thanks,
            Rick

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Where to place brackets for cast iron riser

              Originally posted by Rick15752 View Post
              SewerRatz,
              Thanks for the info.

              I just realized that there isn't any free space on the wye to use my clamp. The clamp that I have is 1" wide, 1/4" thick and 12" long. After installing my couplings onto the wye there won't be any area of the wye to use my clamp without interferring with the couplings. I might try plumber's tape wrapped around the wye and secured to a wooden block. Then I'll clamp the riser just above the wye.

              I just placed the wye on top of the ABS to see if there would be any deflection downward and there wasn't any. I guess the wye isn't that heavy and the ABS is stronger than I thought. So, it should be ok without a clamp. The riser will be supported with clamps right above the wye.

              Thanks,
              Rick
              I picture 1 stack to second floor,second stack serving downstairs fixture with ABS vent.

              Drill out a block to span studs above wye,clamp the cast.

              You can cut that clamp down if need be,either side is fine.

              I use rubber pads under riser clamps if someone thinks there's going to be an issue.

              Comment

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