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Tapping into existing gas line

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  • #16
    Re: Tapping into existing gas line

    I know we can put unions in anywhere on a system that is accessable. As for right/left couplings they are banned by NFPA 54 in concealed areas as well if I recall. I can look it up, but that will still be a regional thing. Reworking the meter to add a tee should not be a big deal. A pic would be useful.

    I agree 3/4 supply pipe should be enough depending on the length of the run. I thing here is that a firepit or a bbq don't know if they are slightly starved for gas. So there is some fudge room for these types of appliances and the charts are a bit forgiving.

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    • #17
      Re: Tapping into existing gas line

      Rick i will help if he has a boat and a plane ticket

      do you have info on that nipple
      Charlie

      My seek the peek fundraiser page
      http://observatory.mountwashington.o...nal&fr_id=1040


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      • #18
        Re: Tapping into existing gas line

        the nipples and couplings,

        http://www.plumbingsupply.com/leftright.html
        Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
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        attributed to Samuel Johnson
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        PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

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        • #19
          Re: Tapping into existing gas line

          Rick - the answers to your questions is 1 - yes, 2 - no

          I'm still early in the planning process so there are some things that are still unclear like the btu needed etc. I actually have a spreadsheet I made while planning the installation of my tankless. It works by using the formula for gas flow and pressure drop found in the gas code book. This is only good for black steel pipe but you can plug in the static pressure at the meter (in my case I measured it to be around 8.5" WC using a Dwyer instruments manometer) as well as the pipe runs in the system and it will calculate the pressure drop/final pressure at the fixture under load. This will allow sizing the pipe correctly to make sure the pressure at the fixture does not drop below what is required (which generally is around 5" WC as I recall).

          I just realized I was probably going to go for one of those BBQs that use pellets so I may not need a gas feed for that. Maybe useful to have an extra gas port regardless.

          I will post a pic of the meter. I have yet to open up the drywall on the other side and see how it is hooked up. I'm still unclear how you would cut into a threaded connection and then reconnect without the use of a union or a left/right coupling.

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          • #20
            Re: Tapping into existing gas line

            For all you east coasters and all parts in between !

            A left and right nipple and coupling is just that the treads on

            one end of a 4" nipple is reversed so when you screw together

            with the coupling it draws both sides to together making up

            a very "tight" piece of pipe and yes this is a upc west coast thing

            and is the only way to splice together gas pipe between end

            pieces per code
            JERRYMAC
            E-MAILJERRYMAC777@GMAIL.COM
            CALIF. LIC. PLBG,HEAT,DRAINS,ELECTRIC,WATER HEATER, BOILER, POOL AND SPA HEATER
            FIRE SPRINKLER CONTRACTOR,
            SINCE JAN. 1989

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            • #21
              Re: Tapping into existing gas line

              NFPA 54-09 Code 7.3.2 Basicly considers the right/left coupling the same as a union and forbids its concealment. So if your code allows it? Fine. If not, then just as well put in a which ever fitting works best for you and an access panel. The code covers fittings for being concealed only. If your best tie-in is exposed then either fitting is fine...per your local code.

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              • #22
                Re: Tapping into existing gas line

                Had a quick look at the factory wrapped pipes at HD. Can anyone enlighten me on the difference between the green and the brown pipes. Also I could not see any wrapped fittings - are you supposed to wrap them yourself?

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                • #23
                  Re: Tapping into existing gas line

                  Green and brown wrap pipe are for general purpose as I understand it. Yellow wrap would be better being for gas. Either way I do not trust factory wrapping, any damage of the coating and all the electrolysis will take hold on that spot when burried. Also you will not find wrapped or coated fittings. My preference is to use Royston Greenline primer and tar tape. It takes some time to neatly wrap the pipe, but you only want to do this once.

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                  • #24
                    Re: Tapping into existing gas line

                    my supply house just switched to the brown from the green.
                    we are required to use primer/ basically yellow contact cement, and 2 layers of 10 mil pipe wrapping tape. anywhere the coating is damaged by wrench marks and the threads/ fittings.

                    i use 1'' wide 10 mil as it's very flexible for making the fittings and 90's

                    the pipe is black steel under the coating and will rust out if not properly primed and taped.

                    rick.
                    phoebe it is

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                    • #25
                      Re: Tapping into existing gas line

                      Originally posted by Kevin Jones View Post
                      Green and brown wrap pipe are for general purpose as I understand it. Yellow wrap would be better being for gas. Either way I do not trust factory wrapping, any damage of the coating and all the electrolysis will take hold on that spot when burried. Also you will not find wrapped or coated fittings. My preference is to use Royston Greenline primer and tar tape. It takes some time to neatly wrap the pipe, but you only want to do this once.
                      Good to hear someone else mention their knowledge on the electrolysis pouring out the smallest exposed portion of pipe.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: Tapping into existing gas line

                        Originally posted by drtyhands View Post
                        Good to hear someone else mention their knowledge on the electrolysis pouring out the smallest exposed portion of pipe.
                        I have seen this first hand on many buried propane tanks that were poorly prepared and had no anode attached. There is another thing you can do just as an extra precaution. Attach a bonding lug to the pipe and bury an anode bag, you would need a dielectric union coming off the meter. It's over kill if the pipe is well wrapped and protected.

                        I would always use a magnesium or thermite weld cap on LP tanks to attach the copper lead from the anode to the steel of the tank. Nothing like striking a few thousand degrees of weld on a live propane tank to get the old ticker started in the morning. Better than any cup of coffee.

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                        • #27
                          Re: Tapping into existing gas line

                          Originally posted by Kevin Jones View Post
                          ... Nothing like striking a few thousand degrees of weld on a live propane tank to get the old ticker started in the morning. Better than any cup of coffee.
                          Is it not better to be filled when welding.
                          Or can one completely remove all of the gas so there is no combustiblevel?
                          Thank you.
                          I'd take an educated guess - but I'm unqualified.
                          It ain't just soot, it's paydirt.
                          "I swear, wherever Gift goes, argument follows." -Youtube comment

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                          • #28
                            Re: Tapping into existing gas line

                            So I had a moment to look at the gas meter today. This is what it looks like -



                            Closer view



                            Inside view







                            To me it seems like the obvious way to do this would be to cut off the pipe going in, remove the 90 elbow on the outside and replace with a tee. The middle port of the tee can reconnect to the original line via maybe a union (I assume that will be to code since it will be visible) and the other port along with a 90 deg elbow can lead inside with a parallel pipe for the firepit.

                            Here is a pic of the yard - I'm just finishing up the little side wall - just need to seat the wallcaps. I'm thinking about having the firepit in the middle - a small one - made of matching stone veneer (quartzite) to the wall. It will have a natural stone top which will turn it into a table but when removed will become a firepit.

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                            • #29
                              Re: Tapping into existing gas line

                              very simple



                              remove the 1'' x 3/4'' 90 and install a 3/4'' x 3/4'' x 1'' tee. the hex nut at the meter is a union, it has a rubber washer to seal the face of the union to the meter. shut off the gas and back off the union. remove the 90 and install a tee. it's very wise to also install a 3/4'' ball valve on the outlet of the tee going to the underground. this will allow for simple testing and a way to isolate the underground.

                              rick.
                              phoebe it is

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                              • #30
                                Re: Tapping into existing gas line

                                Thanks Rick - that's much easier than what I was thinking. Now here's one thing - the meter is on common property (ie HOA property) and so I cannot run the pipe underground from where the meter is. I will need to run it into the garage (which is what is on the other side of the wall) and at the end back out into my yard. I can cut open the drywall and run the pipe through the wall. It will be easier to run an exposed pipe against the wall but I'm not sure that's to code and if not it will fail inspection.

                                Is the pipe around the meter galvanized pipe - it looke like it but I thought galvanized was not allowed for gas. Or is it regular black steel with some anti-corrosion coating.

                                A separate valve for the new branch is definitely a good idea.

                                I'm guessing it would be a good idea to replace the union washer while doing this.
                                Last edited by blue_can; 06-20-2010, 02:10 AM.

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