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Can a water heater be install on bias?

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  • Can a water heater be install on bias?

    Another one of those “what the heck is he asking that for question.

    The basement grade at the water heater location is on a ¼” angle. Should the heater be able to handle that or do I need to find a way to level it?

    Also – aluminum or plastic? I will be installing a leak pan in an unfinished basement. My basement near the heater is not level. Should that matter in my choice?
    Regards,
    K. Nezz

  • #2
    Re: Can a water heater be install on bias?

    Shouldn't be a problem, BUT. I would shim the pan level with a # of cedar cedar shingles. Use wide ones. Cedar won't rot!
    In our area H.D. sells them individually ,about a buck a piece. Just did the same a Lil while ago, Myself.
    I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

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    • #3
      Re: Can a water heater be install on bias?

      I would build a 6" riser with pressure treated lumber to get the WH up off the floor; build the rise level. It makes it much easier to drain in the future. Cover the riser with non PT plywood and use a Aluminum pan. If you decide to set the WH on the concrete use a plastic pan, the concrete (or PT lumber) will eat up the Aluminum.

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      • #4
        Re: Can a water heater be install on bias?

        Originally posted by rjniles View Post
        I would build a 6" riser with pressure treated lumber to get the WH up off the floor; build the rise level. It makes it much easier to drain in the future. Cover the riser with non PT plywood and use a Aluminum pan. If you decide to set the WH on the concrete use a plastic pan, the concrete (or PT lumber) will eat up the Aluminum.
        If you build a platform to put the heater on, make sure that your flue is still properly pitched.

        Good point on the aluminum/concrete interaction

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        • #5
          Re: Can a water heater be install on bias?

          Just took out a 75 gal. RheemW.H. ALUMINUM DRAIN PAN , sitting on concrete 17 years on concrete, in perfect condition!
          I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Can a water heater be install on bias?

            Originally posted by rjniles View Post
            I would build a 6" riser with pressure treated lumber to get the WH up off the floor; build the rise level. It makes it much easier to drain in the future. Cover the riser with non PT plywood and use a Aluminum pan. If you decide to set the WH on the concrete use a plastic pan, the concrete (or PT lumber) will eat up the Aluminum.
            I don't have 6" to spare. Basement hight is minimal (old historical home). I decided to build a 2" concrete platform insuring that it is level. I did that today waiting for it to drive. I will now have to change a nipple to line up the gas line. I did purchase a plastic pan.


            Originally posted by Swade Plumbing View Post
            If you build a platform to put the heater on, make sure that your flue is still properly pitched.

            Good point on the aluminum/concrete interaction
            No flue. Power vent unit.


            Thanks all for the help.
            Regards,
            K. Nezz

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Can a water heater be install on bias?

              I guess I'm late in replying since you have built a 2" concrete platform....anyway, I remember as a kid when my dad installed new water heaters of furnaces he always put them on a 2"x 24" x 30" patio stone. He would level out the patio stone first and then push mortar under it with a brick trowel (some floors in 100 year old house were out 1/2" or the concrete was all beat up, and newer homes had floors sloped toward the floor drain. This levelled everything up and kept the units off the floor preventing rust. In any event, using the patio stone was easy. My mom loved it since she could hose down the basement floor every so often and water would not get trapped under the furnace. Now, I always install my furnaces and water heaters on a patio stone~

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              • #8
                Re: Can a water heater be install on bias?

                Sounds like a great old home! I am an old Carpenter, Myself,faking it as a plumber! Now I,m a Lil concerned about those old dry floor joists close above ! How about a 3'x5' foot sheet of 1/4" dura rock tile backer for fire insurance! And don't forget about Bvent double wall 3"or 4" flue pipe where appropriate ! Good Luck ,and I understand about the 6" shortage! Tool
                I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Can a water heater be install on bias?

                  Originally posted by Chemeng View Post
                  I guess I'm late in replying since you have built a 2" concrete platform....anyway, I remember as a kid when my dad installed new water heaters of furnaces he always put them on a 2"x 24" x 30" patio stone. He would level out the patio stone first and then push mortar under it with a brick trowel (some floors in 100 year old house were out 1/2" or the concrete was all beat up, and newer homes had floors sloped toward the floor drain. This levelled everything up and kept the units off the floor preventing rust. In any event, using the patio stone was easy. My mom loved it since she could hose down the basement floor every so often and water would not get trapped under the furnace. Now, I always install my furnaces and water heaters on a patio stone~

                  You get one demerit for being late….

                  What you describe above is exactly my situation – 100+ year old home.
                  Your idea would have worked for my situation and would have been exceptionally quick. Guessing that would have taken me about an hour at most. However my total lack of pointing skills would have made it look like crape (concrete all over the flags, uneven joints etc.).

                  I attempted the suggestion to shim below the pan but for my application that wasn’t good. The plastic pan was flexing uneven in quite a few places. Even though I was using cedar shingles/shims I would imagine over time they would disintegrate.

                  I happened to have 1 bag of ready mix concrete in the basement from another project and had to buy another bag. Because the pad was so thin I added acrylic to the mix for additional strength. I must say I surprised myself with my screeding skills (did I tell you me and concrete don’t get along well?). This also put the heater just a little higher off the floor giving my more of an angle for the drain plug.
                  Regards,
                  K. Nezz

                  Comment

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