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Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

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  • Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

    The Setup:
    I have a piece of 4" cast iron that is cracked and corroded in the basement of my house. This is the main stack, so there is ~25ft of pipe above the crack. There is access near the top of the stack to install a riser clamp to support the stack while I cut out the cracked piece in the basement.

    The Question(s):
    I am of the understanding that PVC cannot be installed below cast iron...so I have to reinstall cast iron then, right? If so, I haven't seen an CI pipe available in home improvement stores...and if I can get some, how do I connect it? Are there no-hub connectors for CI to CI?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

  • #2
    Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

    If you only put a riser clamp near the top of that 25' section of CI you may be hating life when you pull the support out from under it regardless of the material you intend to put back in.
    No, it's not rocket science, it's plumbing and unlike rocket science it requires a license.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

      Good to know. What would you suggest as a support? The riser clamps I looked at were rated to 750lbs...but is the clamping mechanism itself not suited for CI?

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

        us at least 2 riser clamps properly supported on the 2x4 / 2x6 plates. 1 as low as you can get it to help carry the load and 1 at the mid way height. suppose to be every floor level. of course a temporary one can be installed with a couple 2x4 kickers to carry the weight under the clamp wings.

        you should be able to go from cast to plastic. the band is a cp44 mission or fernco.

        rick.
        phoebe it is

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

          You may want to call in a pro for this one. A good plumber will snap cut a piece of CI and have it installed in less time it would take you to run around getting parts and looking for information on how to do it. If you don't have a clean out now would be the time to install one.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

            Whoo hooo, got it! submitted a post about not being able to get the pipe out....but it's not showing up yet.

            In any case, I just need to take my skirt off in order to get the pipe section removed. Everything is reconnected with a new clean out...and working perfectly!

            I REALLY appreciate all of your advice and caution. Both certainly changed the way I approached this job.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

              I'm glad it worked out for you. Just curious what you used to cut the CI and how that went. Did you end up installing PVC?

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

                I rented a chain cutter from home depot. It worked just fine, i was just careful to score the pipe quite a bit so i didn't crush it.

                I did end up installing PVC. Other than ABS, I really could not find any alternative.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

                  Now when your bored on the weekend you can start cutting out the rest of it to the roof and replace it with pvc also.
                  Seattle Drain Service

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

                    FYI... not knowing any better I have always used a sawzall with a metal blade to cut through cast and it works with no problem... just carefull not to shake the joint(s) loose.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

                      It is certainly true that if you are not careful with the soil pipe cutter, you ll crush it and go back further like i had to on a job last month. It was a horizontal fixture drain in 2 inch CI. It cracked up to the hub so i had to recip the pipe up to the hub. Fortunately a 3X2 fernco slides onto a 2 inch hub and my 2 inch pipe replacement connected just fine. A secret I learned for cutting CI but you need a foot all around the pipe to do this, I used a 4.5inch ZIP cut off wheel made by WALTER, it was rated for S.S. and on my angle grinder I cut a 4inch SOW stack without any worries about cracking the pipe. It cuts super clean, takes about 10 minutes to do 4 inch CI but way way Way faster than burning 4 recip blades. Not related, I cut through a Kryptonite bike lock for a client the same way and it took 12 seconds to pop off the indestructible bike lock.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

                        a 4.5'' grinder with a $20.00 diamond wheel will buzz through 4'' cast iron in a minute if you have full access or a few minutes if you only have access to 1/2 the pipe. just be careful with the sparks and realize the dust will rust whatever it lands on if it gets wet.

                        rick.
                        phoebe it is

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

                          Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK View Post
                          a 4.5'' grinder with a $20.00 diamond wheel will buzz through 4'' cast iron in a minute if you have full access or a few minutes if you only have access to 1/2 the pipe. just be careful with the sparks and realize the dust will rust whatever it lands on if it gets wet.

                          rick.
                          Yep and wear good gloves and safety glasses.The blades can jump and shatter ..Trust me I learned that the hard way.Angle grinder works awesome .Never leaves the truck
                          ''Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" Benjamin Franklin

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                          • #14
                            Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

                            Thanks Rick for the tip about using my diamond wheel and reminding me about the mess it will make with the dust. Site cleanliness requirements may not allow the dust at places like if the stack runs next to someones new white laundry machines. I always saved my diamond wheel for tile walls. Thanks to OLD1 as safety is first!! My blades have shattered but luckily shot the opposite direction. I always wear full protection since then. One shrapnel in the wrong place can end your plumbing career!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Replacing a section of 4" Cast Iron Stack

                              I added a face shield to my work attire when using my grinder, and I still wear the safety glasses, I had to pull a piece of the cutting wheel out of my cheek back in December.The shields are surprisingly inexpensive, I think mine was about $12
                              No, it's not rocket science, it's plumbing and unlike rocket science it requires a license.

                              Comment

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