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  • Best way to have immediate hot water athe kitchen sink faucet? (Not found in SEARCH)

    With our new restricted-flow faucet, it takes even longer for hot water to arrive athe kitchen sink.

    Would a passive convection flow loop work?:
    I'd bring a pipe straight over from the water heater and up to the faucet's connection tube.
    Then a return pipe entering a Tee at the boiler drain.

    Would I need a one-way valve, or would the water in that return line still be warm enough?
    (We don't need it very hot.)

    Thank you.
    I'd take an educated guess - but I'm unqualified.
    It ain't just soot, it's paydirt.
    "I swear, wherever Gift goes, argument follows." -Youtube comment

  • #2
    Re: Best way to have immediate hot water athe kitchen sink faucet? (Not found in SEAR

    Yes a passive flow return pipe will work provided there is no traps in the return piping back to the water heater.

    We use these alot with great results and you can have several bridges at different locations throughout the house. No return piping needed!

    Amazon.com: Grundfos 595916 1/25 Horsepower Comfort Series Recirculator Pump: Home Improvement

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Best way to have immediate hot water athe kitchen sink faucet? (Not found in SEAR

      Originally posted by plumberscrack View Post
      Yes a passive flow return pipe will work provided there is no traps in the return piping back to the water heater. ...
      Thank you.
      That pump has great reviews! Wish it were not so expen$ive.

      Can I use polybutylene tubing back to the water heater?
      Or is that now illegal?
      I'd take an educated guess - but I'm unqualified.
      It ain't just soot, it's paydirt.
      "I swear, wherever Gift goes, argument follows." -Youtube comment

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Best way to have immediate hot water athe kitchen sink faucet? (Not found in SEAR

        one thought I have had is to mount a small few gallon electric hot water heater under the counter,

        In the barn, (and I know the heater is larger and the use is different) one day on yard sale I picked up a used 30 gallon eclectic hot water heater, a person used in a extended RV stay, I took that heater, (120 volt), it is a under counter mount, and used it in my barns goat milking room, and have instant hot water nearly, about 5 to 10 sec, now when I added the meat cutting room next to the milking room, I extended the water over to the sinks in the meat room, now the 30 gallons is fine for most things, but when we butcher, and are cleaning up Evey thing and all the machines the 30 electric is not enough, so I took a gas hot water heater and mounted (in this instance on the other side of the milk room) and will light that on days we cut meat, now with both running I have yet to run out of hot water, and have not noticed a degrade in temperature, when the first is in theory out of hot water,

        with a small unit I would think there may be more notice, as your cold that is setting in the pipes would most likely be nearly the capacity of the heater, and there may be a cooling as that water passes through, the little tank under the counter,

        with a small unit under the counter as a instant tank, and then feed it with hot water from the larger unit for when more is needed, and since it is being filled with hot water I would think in reality it would run very little

        (my guess is the heat loss of pipes and water flowing all the time and the pump small as it is would be more than the little heater in time),

        Just a thought, (I am sure it would work but to how and if you would have hot, cool and then hot again when you wanted more than the capacity of the tank) or if it would blend out and end up basically a even temp until the flow of the larger heater would get water there),

        (if I had a small heater I would test out the idea but I do not), but my system in the barn works great,)
        Last edited by BHD; 03-09-2012, 11:42 AM.
        Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
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        • #5
          Re: Best way to have immediate hot water athe kitchen sink faucet? (Not found in SEAR

          Originally posted by plumberscrack View Post
          Yes a passive flow return pipe will work provided there is no traps in the return piping back to the water heater.

          We use these alot with great results and you can have several bridges at different locations throughout the house. No return piping needed!

          Amazon.com: Grundfos 595916 1/25 Horsepower Comfort Series Recirculator Pump: Home Improvement
          Installed this 8 years ago in our home, LOVE IT ! We have a slab floor, no ezy plumb for a convenventional recirc. line.
          Takes less than an hour , No soldering copper! A pair of channel locks, and You're good to go! So EZ a cave man can do it !
          I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Best way to have immediate hot water athe kitchen sink faucet? (Not found in SEAR

            I love passive hot water recirculating loops. For your passive convection flow loop to work you must have initial vertical rise from the water heater into an attic area or space between floors where a slight horizontal grade upwards can be achieved.
            Are you prepared to run a separate return for this one fixture back to the hot water heater or modify the existing hot water feed into a return line.
            A modified check valve, ball valve and blow down bibb will also be needed as well as an air chamber and shock absorber.
            Seeing that you live in a cold weather climate will make running a pipe in the attic a little more interesting.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Best way to have immediate hot water athe kitchen sink faucet? (Not found in SEAR

              Originally posted by rookie plumber View Post
              I love passive hot water recirculating loops. For your passive convection flow loop to work you must have initial vertical rise from the water heater into an attic area or space between floors where a slight horizontal grade upwards can be achieved.
              Are you prepared to run a separate return for this one fixture back to the hot water heater or modify the existing hot water feed into a return line.
              A modified check valve, ball valve and blow down bibb will also be needed as well as an air chamber and shock absorber.
              Seeing that you live in a cold weather climate will make running a pipe in the attic a little more interesting.
              Water heater is in the basement and kitchen sink on first floor.
              Was planning on installing a T in the copper hot water pipe under the sink and running a return pipe to the bottom of the water heater. I would remove the boiler bibb, quickly screw in a plug and connect the bibb to the Tee. Then connect the return pipe to the Tee.
              Place a one way flapper valve in the vertical part of the return line because a very weak convective flow would not push the flapper open.

              Or buy a recirculator pump like above and get an extra sensor valve crossover piece - the kitchen hot is on its own branch.

              Does the recirculator pump reduce hot water water flow when not running?
              Last edited by Robert Gift; 03-10-2012, 10:48 AM.
              I'd take an educated guess - but I'm unqualified.
              It ain't just soot, it's paydirt.
              "I swear, wherever Gift goes, argument follows." -Youtube comment

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Best way to have immediate hot water athe kitchen sink faucet? (Not found in SEAR

                I put an Ariston 4 gallon electric water heater under the sink, and would absolutely do it again. Easy, cheap ($200) and works extremely well. You do have to keep up with changing the anode, about $15.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Best way to have immediate hot water athe kitchen sink faucet? (Not found in SEAR

                  Originally posted by rookie plumber View Post
                  I love passive hot water recirculating loops. For your passive convection flow loop to work you must have initial vertical rise from the water heater into an attic area or space between floors where a slight horizontal grade upwards can be achieved.
                  Are you prepared to run a separate return for this one fixture back to the hot water heater or modify the existing hot water feed into a return line.
                  A modified check valve, ball valve and blow down bibb will also be needed as well as an air chamber and shock absorber.
                  Seeing that you live in a cold weather climate will make running a pipe in the attic a little more interesting.
                  Hope all is well Steve!
                  I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

                  Comment

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