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  • Km1500

    Folks,

    I inherited a Ridgid KM1500, perhaps 40 years old, with some C-11 and C-14 sections. I am new to sectional machines, have used drums from time to time, and I am not a prof plumber or drain surgeon. A few ques:

    1) Anything this machine is particularly good or bad at? Any tooling that I should buy or avoid? (It came with no cutters or spades.)
    2) Anything I should look at in its mechanicals? I will take it apart and make sure it is well lubed. I assume parts are still available; I see K1500 machines still for sale by Ridgid, but not the KM1500, not sure if there is much difference.
    3) Is this machine still used much today by drain/sewer folks?
    4) I notice the C-11 cables do not appear to be welded at their connectors, is this machine safe to run in reverse with these cables? (connectors won't spin off?)

    Thanks,
    Bert

  • #2
    Re: Km1500

    I bought my first KM1500 in 1976 and is still going and still use it on same occasions as I have another later model one I have had a couple of reconditioned motor and parts over the last 36 years I`d strip it down check the parts for wear and tear order new ones have the motor checked and it will go forever if you look after it

    Tony

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Km1500

      the cables are welded the ends. reverse is typically used to free a stuck cable.

      but i use it all the time in reverse on both my 7/8 and 1.25'' cables with my reverse auger.

      cleaning the machine is pretty basic by removing the 4 end bolts on the front cover. basically there are 3 jaws that are a wear and tear component. there is also some adjustment that can be done on the rear cone.

      i'll post a link to the k-1500 for you to get the owners manual and parts breakdowns.

      http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/4635446...A_B_SP_Man.pdf

      http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/21D197B...0A_B_SP_PL.pdf

      rick.

      Ridgid Kollmann KM-1500 Low Boy Drain Cleaner | eBay

      this is the km-1500 low boy model. basicially the new machine have 4 legs a and the counter is no longer there. this is not an automatic counter but rather a manual clicker that you turn to keep track of your cables. the real old machines had a headlight. now with led lighting, i'm sure it's just a matter of time before ridgid starts using led's to help light the way. hopefully brian and fred are reading this and will incorporate that into the newest designs
      Last edited by PLUMBER RICK; 03-18-2012, 12:12 AM.
      phoebe it is

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Km1500

        The K-1500 is a great machine with out much limits. Can clean up to 10" pipes out to 300'. Spins at a high RPM for the tough root jobs, stops instantly when you run into problems so flipping cable is rare. Overall I like the K-1500, and if I didn't use the Model C by Electric Eel(same class of machine as the K-1500) then I would probably own a K-1500.
        Will Rogers Plumbing
        Moore, Oklahoma
        (
        405) 323-2852

        "Your Solution for Any Sewer and Drain Cleaning Needs"

        "We Unclog Drains That Others Can't"



        www.willrogersplumbing.com
        http://willrogersplumbing.com/?page_id=8

        "Oklahoma's Favorite Plumbers!"

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Km1500

          Thanks for all your input, very helpful.

          Rick, I am a lurker on this board, I recall you winning a customized sectional machine from Ridgid in some kind of contest (was it a 1500?). Could you post a link to pictures of that machine(s)?

          Thanks

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Km1500

            Found the link to the American Power and Venom that Rick has, they look like 1500's

            https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t37387/

            Mine doesn't look that good, has real cobwebs from having sat around for years. Also has the manual counter and two front legs, not the single in the Ebay link, not sure what date that makes it...

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Km1500

              Originally posted by hochwald View Post
              Thanks for all your input, very helpful.

              Rick, I am a lurker on this board, I recall you winning a customized sectional machine from Ridgid in some kind of contest (was it a 1500?). Could you post a link to pictures of that machine(s)?

              Thanks

              Yah, wasn't that the contest that we never knew who won, but were promised they would tell us???

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Km1500

                that was not a contest. unless you count ebay as a contest and $4000. later

                the one i really wanted was the drag racer. i lost that offer by $50. to a guy from down under

                had i won that, i would of had all three ever made. but 2 out of three isn't bad

                rick.
                phoebe it is

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Km1500

                  I disassembled and greased the 1500 today, and fired it up. Motor runs smooth, forward and reverse. Has the groovy manual counter for sections.

                  However, I don't think that I was getting the torque on the C-11 cable I tried. With bare hands (although with a lot of effort) I was able to hold the cable from turning, no matter how hard I pushed the clutch. This suggests worn jaws. However, there are a few things I noticed in disassembling the machine:

                  1) The jaws "look" ok, not thin, but I don't know what the spec says on their thickness. Sort of like brake shoes I suppose in the way they work.
                  2) The "rocker arms" that transfer force to the jaws from the clutch (going by the parts list) had flat spots on their roller bearings where they touch the clutch cone. (The roller bearings were seized but I unseized them with lubricant.) Without the flat spots, they would be putting more force on the jaws since their effective height is being reduced by the flatness.
                  3) It is hard to tell if the "clutch cone" is worn, not sure if this is a wear item

                  So my questions are:

                  1) How do I know the jaws are the real culprint, short of ordering a new set and trying?
                  2) Have any of you replaced the rocker arms as part of wear and tear (the roller bearings with flat spots seem to be integral to the arms and not replaceable by themselves)?

                  Thanks

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Km1500

                    did you ever stall the motor with your test?

                    if the motor still spins and the cables don't, then it's a drive train problem. clutch, rocker arms belt, adjustment.

                    i'm not familar with that old of a machine, but it should still be similar to the current 1500 drive train.

                    rod / rodman from allen j coleman will have the exact answer. he probably has everything in stock to make it look and run new.

                    he checks in every week or give him a call or a p.m through this site.

                    rick.
                    phoebe it is

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Km1500

                      Thanks for the quick reply (at midnight no less), forgot to mention that the motor did not stall, nor did the belt slip, I ran with the cover off to check. The cable just slipped in the jaws suggesting the jaws were not grabbing tight. So either the jaws, or rockers, or both need replacement, or something I am not seeing...

                      I will try Allen J Coleman, the jaws can be found on line easy enough (I think the new ones sold today are same style as used in the KM-1500), but the rocker arms may have changed (pics don't look the same).

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Km1500

                        The older rocker arms had rollers on them the new style do not but they replace the old style get the kit with springs pins and clips number 60145. In a few cases the old clutch cone does not work well with the new rockers if you have trouble you will have to change the cone marvin

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Km1500

                          Thanks, I sent a pm about this issue to "rodman" not to "rod man", not sure who will be getting the message, but you answered my questions.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Km1500

                            Rod Man,

                            I replaced the jaws that grip the cable, and noted an improvement in torque on cable, but I'm not convinced I'm all the way there (still can stop it with my hand, although it nearly tears my hand off).

                            Is it common to replace the rockers and cone on the KM1500? I am guessing I will order the 60145 kit and the cone, since that is all that is left in this drive train. Cone is part # 23572, if not mistaken.

                            --Bert
                            Last edited by hochwald; 03-28-2012, 07:36 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Km1500

                              The 23572 is a cone for a k1500 you will need a cone for a km1500 if that is your problem. I do not remember the number for it as i am at home now you have to be careful looking for parts for a km1500 as some parts are differant then the k1500 marvin

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