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  • #16
    Re: Thanks. Must be sure to notice "Power" vent, not "direct" vent.

    Originally posted by Robert Gift View Post
    Considering the chilling of the basement and furnace and heating ductwork, and the main level floor, would morexpensivelectric water heater still be cheaper by ending the heat loss from the basement?
    I wouldn't think so. I have never encountered a residential mechanical room or basement that had any type of significant heat loss like you are describing from a power vent water heater.

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    • #17
      Re: Your thoughts on power vent water heaters from Lowe's and Home Depot?

      Originally posted by hochwald View Post
      Speaking of water heaters, just installed a State Select water heater (local Ferguson supply stocks them), 6-yr warrantee, 40,000 BTU gas.

      As soon as I fired it up gas leaked from the junction between the thermostat and the hose connecting the burner. Called up State and they sent a new thermostat and burner unit with connecting hose. Didn't install yet, I cranked down hard on the existing threaded hose connection and most of the leak stopped so I have an extra burner if I can't get all the leak to stop all the way.

      Is State especially good/bad otherwise?
      I like the State commercial units, but I too have had issues with the controls on the residential units. State is made by the same company that makes A.O. Smith and American

      Bradford White has the best controls IMO.

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      • #18
        Two fresh air inlet pipes: one opens at the ceiling, other above floor

        Originally posted by Swade Plumbing View Post
        Bradford White has the best controls IMO.
        Would be nice if controls could be exchanged.
        I recall that someone has a gas valve which has a switch which could be connected to open an electric damper.

        If I could place an electric damper in the vent, at least theat loss through the center tube in the water heater would remain in the basement.

        Such a damper would also stop the cold air pouring into the basement allowing the slightly warmer basement air to draft up the vent and outside.

        I would have TWO dampers: One to cap the water heater and other to close off outside cold air from coming in.
        Last edited by Robert Gift; 04-11-2012, 08:06 AM.
        I'd take an educated guess - but I'm unqualified.
        It ain't just soot, it's paydirt.
        "I swear, wherever Gift goes, argument follows." -Youtube comment

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        • #19
          Re: Two fresh air inlet pipes: one opens at the ceiling, other above floor

          Originally posted by Robert Gift View Post
          Would be nice if controls could be exchanged.
          I recall that someone has a gas valve which has a switch which could be connected to open an electric damper.

          I would have TWO dampers: One to cap the water heater and other to close off outside cold air from coming in.
          Bradford White has the most advanced controls on the market. They have a lot of accessories available for their ICON system that allow you to "plug into" the existing valve. Bradford White | Products | Accessories | Accessory Module

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