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Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

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  • Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

    I have about 500 feet (guesstimate) that goes from a old concrete storage tank and under the road over to a stock tank,

    the pipe is 1 1/2" galvanized pipe, since it is 100 years old it has seen better days, I was trying to resurrect the water line to use, I have a poly 1" pipe that gravity feeds from the house and is also tied into the wind mill that stands where the old storage tank is, (the concrete tank leaks so much it is not usable), so I dug a trench about 75 feet long, around the old storage tank and tied into the old galvanized pipe, (in the process the old pipe is nearly gone, in the process of threading the pipe where I cut it, the bottom of the pipe split, and there is a lot of rust pits and so on,

    I think I can get by using it as it is for the next 60 days as the water pressure is only about 5 to 10 pounds, but would like to consider replacing or fixing this as good as I can with as little input as possible cost wise,

    but is there any good way of pulling a 1" poly pipe through the 1 1/2 inch steel pipe,

    I could dig down and cut every 100 feet or so and make pull pits,

    but if a person was going to try how would you try to go about the process,

    even If I re trenched the pipe that is in my field, guessing about 400 feet, I would still need to go under the road again, and would like to pull it or put it through the pipe that is there currently, if it is 1 1/2" pipe,

    (my guess is one may be able to pull it if one used a Chinese finger (like when pulling poly pipe in lawn sprinkler Irrigation systems, unless there is some thing better out there,

    my guess is one would have to get a cable through the pipe first, as pushing it I would think would be impossible, or nearly impossible except for a short distance, I would think a 3/16 cable or 1/4 cable would be more than enough,

    probably push an electricians fish tape first, or a section of #9 fencing wire, and then pull the cable in and then pull the pipe in, unless there is a better way or even if some type of busting head or splitting head would be better, and heaver cable, (have a 10,000 pull winch or just pull with a farm tractor. or make a hydralic set up out of cyclinders to pull the cable. I have a number of used cyclinders laying around,

    any ideas? of suggestions?
    Last edited by BHD; 08-02-2012, 08:26 PM.
    Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
    attributed to Samuel Johnson
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

  • #2
    Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

    barry, you have very good ideas, but a few obstacles come to mind.

    how deep is the gal pipe buried? what type of soil, rocks, fill?

    how rusty is the inside of the pipe? even with perfectly clean pipe, 1'' poly is very close to 1.375'' od and would be a tight squeeze.

    they make a small splitter that will slice the gal open. but it's possible it will pull the pipe out. of course this will only work if you can fish the pulling cable through the gal pipe to start with. then have enough pull to slice the pipe and enough resistance to keep from being pulled forward.

    the pipe slicer also attach├ęs to the poly at the rear and will fish in the new pipe as it slices through the old.

    a couple months ago i did a 200' pull of 2'' hdpe through 4'' styrene pipe that was already crushed and dirty in several spots. couldn't use my pipe burster as the asphalt driveway was only 6'' above the buried pipe. had to slip line it and use a combination of hand pull, winch and truck.

    all i can say is ben and steve were doubting it would work, they stopped doubting at the 200' mark

    wish i was closer to colorado as i would love to help you with it.

    i'll post a link to the slicer in a minute.

    http://wheelerrex.com/wheeler-rex-pr...g-page-51.html

    rick
    Last edited by PLUMBER RICK; 08-02-2012, 09:41 PM.
    phoebe it is

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    • #3
      Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

      I'm suggesting a back hoe.
      sigpic

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      • #4
        Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

        I have a Back Hoe But I'd rent a Big Azz trencher. I'm guessing 5 Ft. depth ?
        I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

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        • #5
          Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

          It looks like trenching the bulk of it would be the better suggestion, and then possibly then use 3/4" diameter poly possibly under the road,

          the depth of the pipe is about 4 foot, and the soil is a sandy loam,

          at least up by the old supply tank the pipe was about 1/3 full of silt and other, some rust (but most of the barnacles was on the exterior of the pipe it looked),

          If the pipe would pull out, weld on a loop to hook on to the pipe and pull the old out and the new in, but I could trench thee hundred feet and put in poly and then do the next segment, and would not need to loose much for just a splice, once I get on the other side of the road I would like add on and move the tank some, and put in a larger tank as the refill rate is slow,

          below is a picture off of google earth of the project, the red line is the basic existing line, about 481 feet, according to google earth, and in time add about 130 more on the east side of the road to move the water out away from the fence, (not really sure what is at the road on the west side as at one time I am under the impression there was a tank on the west side of the road as well,

          but trenching the west side (about 360 feet of old pipe) and then figure out how to cross the road, (about 60 feet), with out upsetting the county road crew (by using the existing pipe if one can (even if it is pulled out and new pulled in) there is no trenching or technical boring under the road. then add the other130 feet,
          Attached Files
          Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
          attributed to Samuel Johnson
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
          PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

            Barry,I love My $300.00 BORZIT. I would excavate next to the road on each side and below frost drill a 2' HOLE. Driveways 1/2 Hr. I look at another bore under drive and sidewalk tomorrow. Call and talk to Jim the owner, Awesome Guy straight shooter.
            I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

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            • #7
              Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

              my jetter with boring pipe will easily blast a hole through the soil, under the road and then can be fished back. there's even a way to bore with the pipe already following the jetter. the bigger the jetter/ pressure washer, the faster it bores. but even 4 gpm will move pretty quick.

              rick.
              phoebe it is

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              • #8
                Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

                I wonder if a S. Pool co. could line the old leaker Conc. tank ?
                I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

                  Since you have a backhoe this system might be a good choice because the other systems are much more money, The grip is the main thing, galv will pull not split with these kits.

                  Water Line Replacement Tool

                  It could be done in sections. Giving you the chance to dig or make a temporary line if something goes wrong.

                  Pipe pushers are great and if there is a guy near you that might be the solution.

                  PD-6

                  Or using a mole with 50 foot pits to make a new line while the old line is in use.

                  Georgia Underground Superstore

                  These can be rented.
                  Seattle Drain Service

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                  • #10
                    Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

                    Originally posted by toolaholic View Post
                    I wonder if a S. Pool co. could line the old leaker Conc. tank ?
                    Polyurea tank lining would be a good choice
                    Polyurea Linings for Concrete, Steel, Water Gardens, Koi Ponds, and Tanks - Polyurea Technical Information Directory - Polyurea.com
                    The prep is the key media blasting the substrate, using a good epoxy primer, then select the polyurea system (resin) to use. spray in bedliners are a crude example of the process. A part A and B are in 50 gallon tanks pumped to the reactor unit then heated hoses carry it to the gun where the 2 are mixed at the tip, dry time is 60 seconds or less.
                    We just bought one of these for coating foundation walls below grade when putting in footing drains. A real cool product!
                    Seattle Drain Service

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Replacing 100 year old pipe? or pulling a poly pipe through it.

                      some good Ideas and most look simple,
                      as far as fixing the old storage tank I doubt if I will as I currently have a line that goes between the house and that windmill so the water can flow both ways, and if the wind is blowing the mill adds some psi to the flow,

                      (one of the main problems with the old storage tank was if the wind did not blow for a few days the tank would be empty and the cattle out of water, the way it is now I can pump water via electricity from the house to the tank at the house I have a 9000 gallon storage tank all enclosed,
                      the concrete tanks have been know to trap deer in them, they get thirsty and jump into the tank but the water is such they can not jump out, and it is a mess to clean up, last time we were able to rescue the buck before it died), and then you have the dirt and tumble weeds to clean out of them as well,

                      but coming up with some ideas on the pipe,

                      and thanks on the link on the linings as some day I will have to reline my steel tank up here at the house, it is 9 diameter by 20 tall, it has some type of epoxy lining in it currently but I know there are some areas that need to be touched up,

                      the picture is the farm off of google earth, the white is the farm out line, the circle is not mine, it was my brothers until he sold it, the blue line is a water line that goes east out to a stock tank it is pressurized,
                      the gold line is a non pressurized line that goes to the windmill I am referring to, and the red is the line that needs replaced, the yellow is the extension I would like to add when I work on it, and what I am wanting water to is that odd shaped field at the bottom, it is currently in grass, and with out water on the cattle will not utilize the grass very well as it is so far from water,

                      as of this morning I see no leaks and it looks like it will hold for this year, (but will need to replace in time),

                      the pipe pusher looks like some thing fairly simple to construct, and could easily be ran off the tractor hydraulics, or the log splitters power pack,

                      the borzit is an option as well, for under the road,

                      there are a number of options I can consider, and I do thank you all for your input,
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by BHD; 08-03-2012, 11:45 AM.
                      Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
                      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                      "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
                      attributed to Samuel Johnson
                      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                      PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

                      Comment

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