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Lavatory Drain Choices

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  • Lavatory Drain Choices


    I'm in the planning stages of remodeling our powder room; trying to select fixtures. We want to get a faucet that has no pop-up-drain assembly [1], so we'll need to get a separate drain for the sink.

    Given that the drain will be independent of the faucet, we could get a clicker style drain, either with or without an overflow. There is a matching drain to the faucet, but it is without an overflow which kind of seems like an accident waiting to happen [2]. We could do a clicker with an overflow [3], but with any of these, you would have to stick your hand through the water to actually drain it. I'm not sure what I think about that.

    Finally, we could just get a grid style drain that would just stay open [4]. We wouldn't be able to fill the basin, but I'm not sure that it matters. Have any of you installed something like this for your customers or heard complaints about that later? These can be had with or without an overflow, do it really matter for this style of drain, which can't be closed anyway?

    Thanks for your help,





  • #2
    Re: Lavatory Drain Choices

    Curious as to why you don't want a pop up.
    If the lav has an overflow, then so should the drain for the obvious reason.
    I don't like the clicker type for the same reason you don't.
    Usually see grid drains in commercial settings.
    Don't know about available finish choices.
    Regular pop ups have the advantage of being easy to clean.
    Of course there's the old school rubber plug on a chain...


    • #3
      Re: Lavatory Drain Choices

      Just to add...
      The only problem I've had with grid drains is they can get
      air locked and not drain the water as fast as it is coming in,
      especially when soap is used.
      You can technically overflow the lav if you run the water
      fast enough for long enough, hence an overflow would be prudent.


      • #4
        Re: Lavatory Drain Choices

        What if you did the traditional pop up and put the lift rod through the counter since it sounds like you want a basin sink? What Jim said about the grid style getting airlocked is exactly on point. Seen this quite a bit, can be proven by putting a capri sun straw through the grid and it drains visibly faster. For pop up assemblies, Wolverine Brass is top notch. Let me know if you can't get one from a local plumber if you wanted one.
        Buy cheap, buy twice.


        • #5
          Re: Lavatory Drain Choices

          Thanks guys. I'll think about pop-ups a bit more, and try to check out the Wolverine Brass ones. Two out of three of the pop-ups in my house are mostly useless [one doesn't have enough travel to close, the other is very difficult to open/close], ironically the one that we'll be replacing is the only one that works easily and closes enough to actually fill the sink. Since this is one of those things that I notice, but don't care enough to fix (there are plenty of other things on the list first); I figured something with fewer moving parts/connections might be more robust over time.



          • #6
            Re: Lavatory Drain Choices

            Grid strainers are useless for snaking and do drain much slower.

            An overflow adds an air inlet and keeps it from getting air locked.

            An overflow will never take the flow froma faucet left unattended, neither will a tub overflow.

            Where you been hiding?

            Maybe you can fix the forum for us. Links don't post too easily and the search feature is useless.

            Worked great when you were a reqular and josh was in charge. Since josh is hit and miss right now, I elect you to fix it. While you're at it put a roundup together too

            phoebe it is


            • #7
              Re: Lavatory Drain Choices

              I took out a wolverine pop up that was over 20 years old and it still looked great. Part number for the ones I like is MF01000.
              Buy cheap, buy twice.


              • #8
                Re: Lavatory Drain Choices


                I've been pretty busy at work. I picked a hell of a time to jump into high-frequency trading. The startup firm I was working for folded in October after the VCs decided not to invest the third round. Pretty much every shop is hurting and most are laying off at the moment (including the one I'm at now).

                I'm not sure about the search, but one thing I noticed when I was trying to post my original topic with links is that it hung, unless I unchecked the box that was something to the effect of insert the link titles. The web server probably needs to go off and download the web sites, and my guess is a firewall may be configured to prevent just that sort of thing.



                • #9
                  Re: Lavatory Drain Choices

                  How about a part time Gig fixing Ridgids SAD STATE OF COMPUTER WHOES ? No one at Ridgid cares !
                  I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .


                  • #10
                    Re: Lavatory Drain Choices

                    I ended up getting a Grohe faucet with a pop-up. The body is metal, as is the top of the stopper, though there is a bit of plastic at the bottom of the stopper where the arm will link with it. I don't think I bought inexpensive, but maybe I bought just a little bit cheap [I'm thinking of gear's buy cheap buy twice signature here]. I think I'm probably OK with it, because when I needed a replacement part for my 20+ year old shower valve, I sent them a picture and within a day had the part number I needed to order. Installing the sink is going to be a couple of weeks out at least, I just started demo last night.

                    Next bit of plumbing fun is going to be replacing a hydronic baseboard, which my non-professional opinion looks like it was put in rather sloppily. One side is 2" above the floor, the other side is 5.5" above the floor (over a 3' run). It is bent so much that it doesn't even seat properly inside of the brackets for the wall. I was planning on replacing the casing at least, but I ended up causing a leak on one of the solder joints while removing the tile around it.