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Plastic stall shower drain replacement

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  • Plastic stall shower drain replacement

    How can I tighten up a replacement shower drain on a plastic base from below in a concrete floor. The recess makes it impossible to use a pipe wrench. The nut is approx 3 5/8 in. The largest basin wrench I've seen is for an 1 1/2in slip joint nut.

  • #2
    try a strap wrench some go 90 deg i think i saw it on a sear comm with bob v

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    • #3
      Don't believe that will work. The nut is only 1/4 in thick. The strap will keep falling off. Grainger item 5uc91 is a 12pt 3.5 in socket. It runs $190 and I don't feel like investing that much.

      [ 11-26-2003, 09:11 AM: Message edited by: zelskid ]

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      • #4
        Like your idea. Think I have a few improvements.4" is too small and I've no source for 5". Use a small piece of 6" pipe of minimum length to clear the drain assembly. Drill some holes ion the pipe opposite the flat sides of the nut and screw in some screws to act as rebar. After the resin sets, use a reducing coupling to reduce to 1 1/2 in. for a resonable size handle. A 12" chanellwrench will be strong enough to tighten the nut.

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        • #5
          Just finished making my tool. Took a 4" coupling and drilled holes for sheet metal screws opposite the flat sides of the nut. Got the drain assembly and a spare nut from Home Depot. Screwed in screws to hold nut centered in coupling and to tie the fiberglass to the coupling like mini rebars. Set coupling upright on manila folder protected bench,with nut at bottom, flange down. Made up resin and hardener in cap from old spraycan. Covered nut in Pam,hoping resin wouldn't stick. Poured resin in gap between nut and coupling.Let harden 3 hours. Couldn't get nut out, so I cut section out with Dremel tool and popped out rest of it.Tried it out on another nut and found it too tight. Used a file to slightly enlarge hex. Bushed down to 1.5 in PVC and drilled holes through pipe as a handle. I'll be doing the job next week and will let you know how it works!!!!!!!!

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