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  • Sharkbite/push fit type stops

    I apologize to NHMaster in advance for posting this

    I'm contemplating using a Sharkbite type stop for the toilet for my remodelled bathroom. Does anyone have any comments/experience with the Sharkbite angle stop vs the Brasscraft push type fitting. I looked at both - the SB looks well made and study but I don't have any first hand experience with it. The Brasscraft stop does not require a removal tool - it looks like you just remove the locking clip and push with your fingers to remove.

    Also on a related subject - is there an easy way to extend a copper stubout by a small amount (about 1"). A slight miscalculation on my part will leave it short since the mud wall ended up thicker than I had anticipated and also I will be tiling behind the toilet. Using a coupling will probably make it longer than 1" which means the stop will stick out more than I would like. Does anyone make an internal sweat coupling? Any other options or do I have to live with the stop sticking out a bit more?

  • #2
    I've always used compression stops. So I can't see a reason to use a shark stop. but as far as your dilemma goes. Post a photo. Is it a copper bullet or a copper sweat cap on there now.

    would a copper mip extend and allow a ips angle stop to be used with some chrome cover casing?

    you might even find a brass sweat flush adapter like we use on flushometer installs. I have them for 3/4" and 1".

    you could always back charge the tile man


    Rick.
    phoebe it is

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    • #3
      I'm only thinking about SB fittings for two reasons a) to see how they hold up long term since they are seen as "hack" products b) easier to remove if you need to replace the casing that goes over or to repair the drywall/tile etc. The last time I tried to do that it turned into a much bigger job when I tried to pull off the sleeve using the tool you in fact suggested some years ago since it looks like the original install used soft copper so pulling thew sleeve off completely deformed the pipe so I had to cut out the drywall and a good chunk of pipe and sweat on a new pipe. I made it extra long since I knew I would be remodelling but it looks like I did not make it long enough.

      Sadly no tile man to blame since I'm doing the entire remodel myself . I should have checked this when everything was down to the studs.

      As shown in the photo it's currently capped using a SB cap but I do need to address this before tiling since once the tile is on I will not be able to insert the removal tool and also the space may be limited at that time to extend the pipe.

      Another related question - can anyone recommend a good casing that does not corrode. The last one I had was completely corroded within a few years.

      Last edited by blue_can; 06-01-2014, 02:01 PM.

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      • #4
        How much more cement and tile is going on the wall. I would sweat on a mip adapter and you're home free.

        buy a chrome plated brass estucion, or a ss estucion. Or stop missing when you're pissing

        Rick.

        phoebe it is

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        • #5
          Like Rick said, Why....?
          You want to use a SB to see if it will work?
          Better to use something you know will work.
          I would cut around the copper stub-out enough to
          cut the pipe in the wall and couple it there, or unsweat
          it at the fitting and add a longer stub.
          Patching the tile board should be no problem.

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          • #6
            I'm sure my aim is quite good so no idea about why it corroded .

            I estimate about 3/4" additional thickness (tile 1/2" and thinset 1/4") to the final surface. So you are suggesting sweat X MIP and then a FIP stop?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Big Jim View Post
              Like Rick said, Why....?
              You want to use a SB to see if it will work?
              Better to use something you know will work.
              I would cut around the copper stub-out enough to
              cut the pipe in the wall and couple it there, or unsweat
              it at the fitting and add a longer stub.
              Patching the tile board should be no problem.

              It's not cement board - it's mortar on lath which is a lot harder to demo.

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              • #8

                Are you kidding me?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by blue_can View Post
                  I'm only thinking about SB fittings for two reasons a) to see how they hold up long term since they are seen as "hack" products b) easier to remove if you need to replace the casing that goes over or to repair the drywall/tile etc.


                  IMHO, if you just want to test how well Sharkbite works, just open of the wall, cut off the stub-out, install a SB coupling with a longer nipple and cap it off. Then when you're ready to trim out the bath, cut the nipple to accommodate an escutcheon and whatever kind of stop you want to buy.

                  If by some chance it fails in the wall, please let the group know. I'm sure you'll be publicly flogged without mercy .

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ArizonaPlumber View Post


                    IMHO, if you just want to test how well Sharkbite works, just open of the wall, cut off the stub-out, install a SB coupling with a longer nipple and cap it off. Then when you're ready to trim out the bath, cut the nipple to accommodate an escutcheon and whatever kind of stop you want to buy.

                    If by some chance it fails in the wall, please let the group know. I'm sure you'll be publicly flogged without mercy .

                    Ha Ha - I don't think I'm yet ready to try SB inside a wall. While I'm sure I will be publicly flogged without mercy if it fails the prospect of water damage is more scary. I thought a stop would be low risk since if it does leak it can easily be replaced and also a leak will be visible right away.

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                    • #11
                      I do test at my shop with a pressure pump set up. If you want to do a test, find an outside hose bibb that you don't use and get a hose adapter to an ips sharkbite adapter and have at it. At least it's outside and easily monitored. I wouldn't use a sb angle stop in your home for the benifit of a test. You already know they work based on your sb cap.
                      your estucion rotted based on the fact that its a .29cent steel stamped crome plated estucion. It's close to the floor and cleaning chemicals. Probably why the ones In the cabinet are still soso. A real estucion will cost 3.00

                      remember players with shorter bats have to stand closer to the plate. The big batters can aford not crowding the plate

                      Rick.
                      Last edited by PLUMBER RICK; 06-01-2014, 06:20 PM.
                      phoebe it is

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                      • #12
                        I think you are right about the bats Rick . How can I tell the escutcheon is a good one vs a cheap one - price alone or can you tell by looking? Since everyone seems to be negative on the SB stop I guess I will go with compression or threaded. But compression I guess will stick out more since I will need to attach a coupling.

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                        • #13
                          Cost should be obvious but a magnet will id brass from steel. Not sure if it will id stailess as some ss is magnetic. You could also clear coat an estucion to help seal the chrome. But not a big deal as a split estucion will easily replace a damaged one.

                          rick.
                          phoebe it is

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                          • #14
                            the plastic chromed split escutcheons work pretty well
                            ~~

                            ... it was plumbed by Ray Charles and his helper Stevie Wonder

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                            • #15
                              That stub out is way too short. I personally don't like stops right up against an escutcheon regardless of push or compression style. They don't look as nice, but the white pvc escutcheons don't rust.. They dont look great either, I'll give you that.

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