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Have You Used a "Super Ring" Before

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  • Have You Used a "Super Ring" Before

    Hello. I am in the process of repairing a closet flange in my powder room. I have a slab foundation, so I cannot easily remove the old closet flange without ripping up finish flooring and concrete. Home Depot suggests I use a "Super Ring." It is a metal device sized to fit over the ring portion of the closet flange. It has tabs to screw it into the flooring, and, apparently, I can use concrete screws to attach it to the concrete.

    I want to know if this is the most appropriate route to go to repair the flange. (The current flange has a small crack at the edge of where one of the closet bolts is inserted.) It seems like it will work, but I guess I am concerned about this thing staying connected to the floor. Do concrete screws work well? I have 5/8 of finish engineered flooring to drill through (it's glued to the concrete), so I guess that will provide some sort of surface to adhere to as well.

    Also, the directions provided with the Super Ring suggest I remove the remaining portion of the broken ring, but it also says I don't have to do that (I can mount right on top of the ring). Any thoughts on which method is the best?

    Any tips, advice, or thoughts you can give will be most apprectiated. Thanks!

    Bronson Beisel

  • #2
    I am not a plumber by trade but do remodeling and repair with a lot of bathroom work. I tell folks it seems that my life is in the crapper. If the super ring is the same type red metal ring I have seen I would make sure you have a good seal so that sewer gas cannot come between the ring and old flange. They make a replacement plastic flange that has a rubber seal designed to be inserted into the old style 4-inch cast iron pipe, with this you would probably have to cut off an old flange. They also make a small repair ear that can replace the one broken corner and that is probably the best solution for you. There are many ways to fix this, just be sure of gas tightness and security to attach the bowl to the floor.

    I usually use tapcons ( phillips head) to secure both type rings to cement floors. If working with wood subfloor use brass or stainless screws. Another often overlooked part of this job is to make sure the toilet does not rock before you place it with the wax seal. Dry fit it first. The bolts and wax seal have a tough enough job to do without having to mold to an uneven floor. I use various pieces of scrap plastic to shim out all rocking and usually glue them down with some adhesive caulk to hold them during assembly. It does not take much to do this and it is worth it in the long run.

    [ 02-17-2003, 03:14 PM: Message edited by: Bob S ]


    • #3
      Thanks Bob S:

      The directions for using the SuperRing call for putting a bead of butyl rubber caulk between the ring and the flange. Hopefully, that and the wax seal will help make a tight seal. I will look for the repair ear you mentioned.

      I thought I had seen one of those before, but Home Depot didn't have them. I'll check Ace Hardware on my way home tonight.

      I'll also look for the flnage with the rubber seal, but I have all PVC waste pipes, so I bet that wouldn't work, eh?

      Thanks for your advice and tips. I do appreciate it!



      • #4
        Glad to help. If you do remove the old flange you can get all different kinds of new ones to fit depending on what style the original is. I use a specialty electrical and plumbing supply house that has all kinds of options. Some fit the od of 4", some the id, and the same with 3", you do not want to give up any more diameter than you have to though, the cleaner straight shot you have, the better, in my judgement. I believe the id of PVC and cast is the same for the nominal sizes. The slip in should work for either but I would use glue up style if possible as it is about $10 cheaper.

        You do need to be careful with building things up too much as some toilets do not have much clearance on the flange mating area. I am pretty sure I saw the small ear type flange on Ask this Old House but can not think of a source. My True Value local store has been able to do wonders for me usually.

        Maybe the real plumbing pros can provide more info.


        • #5
          Try this site: web page
          The product they used is the Gapper Flange Repair Strap from Jones Stephens Co. It looks even simpler that the heavier one I have used before. It looks like it would not cause any increase in flange height.


          • #6
            I thought I would update everyone on the SuperRing. I ended up using that to repair my flange. I did find the repair ears one of the experts mentioned, and I bought a pair, but I could not get them under the flange, which was sitting tightly on the floor, so I opted to use the Super Ring.

            I initially tried to mount it onto of the existing flange, but there was not enough clearance and the toilet sat up off of the floor during the dry fit.

            I used my Rotozip to cut away the outer ring of the old flange and slipped the Super Ring over what was left of the flange. Since the waste pipe is set in concrete, it's not going anywhere. I bought some concrete tap bits and concrete screws to secure the Super Ring to the floor, and I must say it works GREAT.

            After I reinstalled the toilet, it does not budge, and it is LEVEL! Previously, it was not level and wobbled slightly. There is a small gap at the front of the toilet where I slipped a couple of plastic shims. I might caulk it in the future, but it's hardly noticeable, and I like the idea of being able see if any water is ever leaking from the seal (so far, it's quite sound).

            I considered using a new slip in PVC flange, but I already have a 3 inch flange in the waste pipe, so that was a no go. Apparently, the flange had been repaired previously, and a flange with a smaller end was inserted into the remains of the larger flange. It looks like a piece of pipe was glued inside the larger flange first and then the smaller flange was glued inside of that. How's that for weird?

            It makes me wonder if I could a hole bit with a drill to cut out the 3 inch flange completely and THEN insert a new flange. For now, the toilet is working fine, and the horn has plenty of room. I noticed that the horn is less than 3 inches wide, so it still fits in the smallish flange. But I agree - the clearer the shot out of the horn, the better.

            Thanks again for all of the tips and advice!


            • #7
              Quick tip about caulking your toilet. I've found it is better to leave a small space uncaulked in the rear of the toilet where no one can see. If or when the wax seal fails you will notice it behind the toilet first instead of in your floors or walls.