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Radon mitigation sys

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  • Radon mitigation sys

    Recently put my radon sensor down low by next to one of my 3 sump pits in the corners of basement and got some scary high readings. The weekly average was 15 and I had a one day average of 37.6 !
    The readings at the other pits were normal.

    I plan on installing a mitigation system and would like some clarification on plumbing codes.

    I plan on running 3"pvc pipe through the rim joist into attached garage, up the wall into attic where I'll install a radon fan and then vent through roof.

    Its a 6000 sq ft house so I'm sure it'll need a powerful motor to extract the radon.

    How many fittings am I allowed?
    I'm guessing I need 2 90's, and about 6 30 degree's and perhaps a couple 45's to rout it the roughly 60ft to roof.

    Are pipe fire collars needed on both sides of all walls?
    In other words, do I need to put a collar in the attic side of ceiling if one is installed on the garage drywall ceiling penetration?

    If I install a vertical vent out of the roof, will snow or rain shorten the fan life?
    Would it be better to have an elbow or rain cap on it?

    Does fan have to be installed vertically?

    I realize you can't give exact advice on my situation but I'd appreciate some general advice on the matter.

  • #2
    No one?

    I guess I'll wing it.


    • #3
      I see some good ideas in this example installation. Adding the u-tube manometer is a good idea. Dead accurate, no cailbration required.

      Don't know anything about this website or the company, was one of the first that popped up when I searched and it was in Michigan.

      Is you city code online, many are now-a-days.
      "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006



      • #4
        From what I know about Radon mitigation systems a vented thru the roof open to rain should not be a problem ... the blower fan allows the water to bypass and are waterproof ... most of the water from a radon vent will be in the form of condensation when warm air being exhausted meets with cool or cold air such as the attic and forms within the PVC.

        I would have the vented system pitched towards the pit ( which I assume your running the vent from ) As Bob mentioned installing a tube manometer is a good idea .. you will always be able to check to see if your blower is functioning by the pull of the liquid in the tube.

        As to the firewall from what I seen and or read I would say the ring on the firewall side would be sufficient as illustrated below ... best of luck with the install.

        Click image for larger version

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        • #5
          Thanks. I was thinking it had to be on both sides of the wall. I'll let you know how it goes.


          • #6
            Remember you are not sucking radon out of the whole house, just the sump pit. Getting it out of the pit keeps it from going theough the whole house. I had one installed in KS for about $250, including the air tight sump lid, piping (single story house), manometer, and fan. That was 18 months ago. Admittedly our rules are a lot cheaper to implement than in some parts of the country. We do not even test for radon unless a buyer demands it.


            • #7
              It'll probably cost me about $400 just for supplies.
              I have 3 pits all interconnected via drain tile so I need to exhaust more than just the gas in one pit. (Big house)
              ​​​​​​On the flipside, I dont want to draw too much and backdraft the water heater and furnace that'll bring in carbon dioxide.