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  • Bought Ridgid sump. Having a problem? Help?

    Our sump died yesterday so we replaced it with a Ridgid SP-500. 1/2 HP. (Old one was a Sears 1/3 HP).

    Supposed to handle 4,400 GPH.

    However, it took FOREVER to empty out my 17 X 22" well. I do realize that the 4,400 gph number varies with the height, etc. it has to discharge but this is WAY off.

    We stood there and watched the water go down. I pretty much expected the water to vanish relatively instantly. Like a minute. Nope! Slow as molasses.

    We made sure the check valve was working ok.

    We did put the pump in for a while before we foolishly taped up the little hole in the tube. (Yes, I'm going down there now to untape it - we now know the hole is SUPPOSED to be there ) But it was still slow prior to the hole plugging.

    I went over to the sump site trouble-shooting section and read something about lifting the pump above the water and resubmerging to "retrap air in control skirt". I re-read the sump booklet and the description seemed to say to put the pump in the well - then add water to test. We lowered the pump in the well (yes it is straight) THEN turned plugged in/turned on the pump.

    Questions are:

    1. The "air bleed hole" is perhaps 1.5ish feet above the point where the hose attaches to the Check valve. The check valve is attached directly to the pump (as it was in our old system). Does this sound proper?

    2. Does it sound like the problem could be not having 'air in the control skirt' as mentioned above?

    3. Does anyone have any other ideas as to why this thing is pumping out SO very slow?

    Thank you everyone!!!

  • #2
    Lisa
    1.) The air bleed hole in the discharge pipe needs to be below the check valve if the pump is a bottom intake unit. This will allow the pump to "pump" the air in the pump case out. If the air bleed hole is above the check valve the air trapped in the pump case and around the impeller will not get out. The unit will be "air locked". The pump can not happen at all or it will pump out slowly.
    2.) correct
    3.) The replacement pump may not have the same capacity at the head you are operating at. Without the hd. and capacity curves for both models I can not help you.
    4.) The lifting of the pump to get 'air in the control skirt' has to do with the pressure diaphragm switch.
    Go to www.sspma.org for som more trouble shooting ideas.

    Comment


    • #3
      When I removed the old pump, there was a check valve attached DIRECTLY to the pump discharge hole. Then the tube comes up from that. So the check valve is attached to the pump.

      Then the hole (which I plugged) is above that.

      The instructions say "a check valve is required in the discharge line to prevent backflow" (got that) "It is best to install the checkvalve directly to the pump discharge. Thread a check valve into pump discharge".

      I took that to mean the checkvalve should attach "directly" to the pump itself.

      Am I interpreting this incorrectly?

      I turned on the unit and while running, lifted it out of the water and placed it back in. This seems to have helped.

      However, I need to know if the checkvalve is ok being attached directly to the pump or if I should go buy the type that needs to be above the water - say 4' up?

      If the current pump-attached checkvalve is OK - should I plug the air bleed hole since it is ABOVE the check valve?

      I know if I place a new check valve up outside of the well - the air bleed hole is in the right place.

      ???????

      Comment


      • #4
        Drill a 3/16” hole below the check valve and leave the hole above it plugged. Unplug the pump, remove it, lay it on it side, with a potable / battery operated drill dill the 3/16” hole below the check valve. It is OK to drill in the threads below the check valve.

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        • #5
          OK on the air hole - So I don't need a new checkvalve then? What I have is good enough?

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          • #6
            Not knowing what you have, yes. If it is not leaking back water into the pit is is OK.

            Comment


            • #7
              Yesterday I spoke with my local plumbing supply/plumbers. They guy told me I don't need an air hole in the discharge line.

              GRRRRR.....

              Comment


              • #8
                Lisa
                I have worked for ther Zoeller Pump Co.(www.zoeller.com) for 35 years. If the pump is a bottom intake unit with a check valve in the line , IT NEEDS AN AIR RELIEF HOLE below the check valve. Go to WWW.SSpma.org for a trouble shooting chart thet will confirm this. just how many pumps has this clerk installed? How many pumps has he had to deal with that had this same problem--a bottom intake pump with a check valve that would not pump correctly or not at all ?

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                • #9
                  Re: Bought Ridgid sump. Having a problem? Help?

                  Lisa,
                  I wish you luck with the Ridgid from Home Depot. Just hope you don"t have to buy any parts for it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Bought Ridgid sump. Having a problem? Help?

                    Originally posted by Ridgid owner View Post
                    Lisa,
                    I wish you luck with the Ridgid from Home Depot. Just hope you don"t have to buy any parts for it.
                    Lisa's post is two months short of being seven years old so I would imagine she figured it out.

                    Mark
                    "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

                    I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Bought Ridgid sump. Having a problem? Help?

                      I think Lisa has moved on, she posted that almost 7 years ago, maybe you can move on as well.
                      The Other Rick

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