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Sump Pumps, what to buy?

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  • Sump Pumps, what to buy?

    Hi to all! This is my first time here and I am in the process of buying a new sump for a new installation in my basement. I have read a lot about sump pumps and their installations, so now I know, after some measurements and calculations, that I have a TDH (Total Dynamic Head) of 45 ft, the vertical head is barely less than 10 ft. So I am looking for a pump that will work well and confortably with the 45 Ft TDH, so I came to the RIDGID website looking for performance charts per model, and guess what they don't have them, they only show a generic graph with no information.

    Can somebody help me here? I need to know what would be the right HP pump, 1/4HP, 1/3HP, or 1/2HP for that 45 Ft TDH?

    As you can see by my user name I am a Do It Yourself kind of guy, I enjoy doing this kind of projects myself, but I also want to do it right the first time.

    Thanks to all for your comments and help.

  • #2
    Homeowner_DIY,

    Welcome, while I too am relatively new to the site I have been in the piping industry for three decades. You are certainly on the right track by determining head pressure. But there are other determinations to consider when deciding what brand and what type of pump to install.

    First and foremost, stay away from the cheap imported garbage. The 30 or 40 bucks you saved will be meaningless the first sleepless night of heavy rain wondering if the pump will do its job.

    Second, how big and what are the dimensions of the sump pit you will be installing your pump in. If you have a long narrow tube type of pit which is just slightly larger than your pump diameter then you need a pedestal style of pump with the motor mounted at least a foot above the flood level of your pit. If you have a wider pit which will allow more volume with a more shallow standing by all means use a submersable pump. If you put a submersable into a tall narrow sump it will cycle on and off a lot and shorten the life of the pump dramaticly, destroy your check valve and raise your power bill. If the pit base is at least 2 1/2 times the diameter of the pump base then I strongly advise the submersable.

    Third, how high is the water table in your area and are you subjected to a lot of power outages and brown outs? If you have a lot of power outages due to heavy spring storms or remote location then consider a battery back up pump as well.

    Fourth and a bit lesser known is the fact that you can install a heavier pump than what your head pressure calls for by simply installing a section of smaller diameter pipe in your discharge line. This will allow you to get a higher quality pump and still let it work to maximum efficiency and life expectancy.

    Here in the midwest I have always used Zoeller as my first choice of pump brands and then Liberty as my second choice. Both of these models will give you decades of sleepful nights even during the rainiest of springs. Both of these brands are made right here in these United States and carry nice warranties. In fact over the years I have only replaced one of these pumps due to warranty, and that was due to the owner not covering the pit and his young child disposing his soiled underwear into it. (A very interesting conversation with that owner as he witnessed the untangling all of that elastic from the pump impeller). Zoeller did not bat an eye and honored the warranty.

    One other thing, and possibly the most important thing for your pump selection. Is this a clear water pump or do you have any plumbing in your basement that discharges its waste into your sump pit? If you have sewage going into your pit then you need an effluent pump or a grinder pump. Also, these are almost always submersable pumps except in some commercial and industrial applications. But again, Zoeller has proven, to me anyway, to be the most reliable of these pumps.


    I cannot recall the model number of the Zoeller submersable that would probably be ideal for your clear water submersable application. But will post back here tomorrow night if you can't find it by then.
    Work hard, Play hard, Sleep easy.

    Comment


    • #3
      SOUNDS LIKE YOU GOT A LITTLE CARRIED AWAY IN THE TDH. IF YOUR HEIGHT IS ONLY 10' THEN I WOULDN'T WORRY TOO MUCH ABOUT THE TDH. KEEP YOUR DISCHARGE LINE 1.5'' IF IT IS CLEAR WATER OR 2'' IF IT WASTE. THE ZOLLER M53OR M57 IS A GOOD CHOICE FROR CLEAN WATER UP TO 3/8'' SOLIDS. IT GOOD FOR 21' OF HEAD. THE ZOLLER M267 IS A 2'' PUMP AND WILL PUMP OUT SOLIDS UP TO 2'' AT A MAX OF 25' APPROX. THIS IS BY MEMORY, AS I'M ON A CRUISE TO BELIZE AND NOT AT MY OFFICE TO CHECK. THE 45' OF TOTAL DYNAMIC HEAD I THINK IS A SIZING MISTAKE. OVERSIZING THE PUMP WILL MAKE IT BURN OUT PREMATURLY. IT WON'T GET UP TO SPEED AND WILL NOT GET PAST IT'S STARTING WINDINGS. UNLESS YOUR PUMPING LOTS OF WATER ON A CONTINUOUS BASIS, I'M SURE EITHER PUMP WILL DO. MAKE SURE AS NOTED BY PLUMBER THAT YOU SIZE THE PIT TO THE RIGHT DIAMETER AS THE PUMP TYPICALLY CYCLES FROM APPROX. 11'' INCHES ON TO 4'' OFF OF WATER DEPTH. ALSO MAKE SURE YOU PROVIDE A CHECK VALVE ON THE DISCHARGE LINE AND DRILL A 3/16'' HOLE BELOW THE CHECK VALVE IN THE PIT AT APPROX. THE HEIGHT OF THE PUMP. THIS ALLOWS FOR THE PUMP TO RELEASE THE TRAPPED AIR IN THE SECTION OF PIPE BETWEEN THE PUMP AND THE CHECK VALVE. TOO MANY PUMP INSTALLATIONS I'VE SEEN THAT THIS WAS NOT DONE AND THE PUMP BURNT OUT DUE TO AN AIR LOCK/ CAVATATION. ALSO TRY TO USE DRAINAGE FITTINGS INSTEAD OF WATER FITTINGS AS THIS WILL ALLOW FOR A BETTER FLOW WITH LESS BACK PRESSURE AND A WAY TO SNAKE OUT THE LINE IF NEEDED AT A LATER DATE. PUTTING THE 1.5'' PUMP ON AN ELEVATED BLOCK 4-6'' WILL ALSO ALLOW FOR THE SILT TO SETTLE AND NOT CLOG THE INTAKE. THE 2'' PUMP DOESN'T REQUIRE IT AS IT IS ELEVATED 2'' AND WILL PUMP OUT SOLIDS.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks to both of you, your advise is very valuable to me. I am glad to see that Plumber and Plmber Rick both agree on the Zoeller pump, wich definitely is the way I am going.

        Comment

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