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  • Ridgid 700 Power Threader

    I've got a 700 Power Threader that we use to thread 1-1/4", 1-1/2", and 2" pipe. This is a brand new tool and dies and I'm having problems getting the die to start the threads. I've adjusted the dies using good threads, I'm using plenty of oil, and I'm following the manual on proper technique. My result is a chamfered end to the pipe. What am I doing wrong?

    Ridgid tech support tried to help to no avail so I thought I'd ask some users.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    i do not have a 700 but a 300 with the same threading head .

    this may sound dumb but i have a lot of helpers ask the same thing ?

    1 is the threader turning in the wright direction ?

    2 are you pushing hard enough to get the thread started ?

    some times i have the same problem with rounding the end i take a file and cut some small groves on the end and this helps the teeth grab .
    Charlie

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    • #3
      i would try and loosen up the die to allow for a easy starting thread. you might have to adjust from there.
      i just (tonight) put in a new set of high speed dies in the 11 r head for a 600 threader. the 3/4'' set up on the first attempt and the 1.25'' took 2 tries. also make sure that the dies are "npt" national pipe taper. i found on a different 1.25'' set they were for straight electrical threads. "npsm"

      rick.
      phoebe it is

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      • #4
        Take a look at how you are cutting the pipe. If you are too aggressive with cutting you could be mushrooming the end of the pipe when cutting. Remember that a pipe cutter does not remove material, it moves it. What does that mean? The cutting wheel separates the molecules, some go to one side and the rest to the other side of the cutting wheel. If you apply too much cutting pressure with a hand-held pipe or tubing cutter or the one mounted on the machine, then the molecules at the OD of the pipe are moved aside before the molecules at the ID of the pipe. Those molecules build up a ridge on the OD of the pipe, which can increase the pipe OD to where it now no longer fits into the pipe die when the die is adjusted to a normal thread depth setting for that diameter pipe. Same thing happens on copper or stainless tubing if you try to cut too fast.

        Solution: Don't crank down on the cutter so much, half a turn for every couple revolutions is plenty. It might take you a couple seconds longer to cut the pipe, but you will have much less trouble threading and you will gain the 'lost' time back. As a bonus, you will not wear out cutter wheels so fast, so you'll save a buck or two also.
        ---------------
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        “If I had my life to live over again, I'd be a plumber.” - Albert Einstein
        ---------
        "Its a table saw.... Do you know where your fingers are?"
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        • #5
          Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK
          also make sure that the dies are "npt" national pipe taper. i found on a different 1.25'' set they were for straight electrical threads. "npsm"

          rick.
          Electricians use NPT for threading our conduit.
          All conduit is NPT; fittings and couplings are NPSM

          TKB
          Electrical Contractor

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          • #6
            NPSM is for mechanical conections where you are not trying to seal a fluid medium. Rather than a tapered thread NPSM is a straight thread which is meant to join pipe sections only.

            If I had to guess (which I do) I would go with the over zealous pipe cutting therory.

            Mark
            "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

            I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

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            • #7
              If you are threading galvanized pipe, it is probably the pipe. Inferior pipe, which is about all that is available anymore, is very hard to start. If you are using galvanized, try a black nipple.

              If the above is not the answer, I have had a few problems with new Ridgid dies in the last year. Try it on a blank end (one you have not cut yourself), if it will not start, take them back.

              Bob D. is also right when he says you're cutting wrong. Try a blank pipe and see what happens.
              the dog

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              • #8
                see how far the dies will thread onto a factory nipple. it should go almost flush to the last thread if properly adjusted.
                also try cutting the pipe with a sawzall or portaband. this will eliminate the over tightening scenario.

                rick.
                phoebe it is

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                • #9
                  700's are just tough beasts to use sometimes. I have one, but only use it if I'm going to a job I have'nt seen yet but know that I need to make just a short run...a tristand and 700 can't be beat for mobility. But I often have a hard time myself getting pipe ends to start (and it's not my cutting/reaming) so I just start it on by hand after sliding the 700 on the pipe, pushing and turning, until it grabs and gets past hand tight, then slide the 700 over the die head and rip away.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Ridgid 700 Power Threader

                    Same problem, so I don't give it a squirt of oil until until the die bites into the pipe. Works for me (threading pipe >35yrs).

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