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Need Help! - Water Main Break

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  • Need Help! - Water Main Break

    I'm hoping that someone on this site can assist me or at a minimum point me in the right direction. I live in a 100 year old home. The galvanized piping from the water main was as old as the home. The main pipe was rusting from the inside out. It was so bad that it actually started dripping water outside the pipe.

    Now I am not a plumber but I am a very handy person. I had already replaced nearly all the galvanized pipe in the home with copper.

    Here's where I am in desparate need of assistance. The water main broke off in the basement wall when I made my last turn of the wrench while tighting down the last fitting. I called the city and had them come out & shut the water off at the service point. I rented a Hilti & removed the wall around the entrance point of the water main. To my dismay, I discovered that I did not break the main. It was already broken & someone ducted taped it. Yes, I did say ducted tape!

    I now have an exposed 3/4" pipe with no threads. It is recessed in the wall about 3". I have about 8" of clearance on each side of the pipe with the exception of the floor where there is only a couple of inches of clearance.

    How do I put a pipe thread on the pipe? I am trying to avoid digging up the yard & replacing the entire run.

    Sincerely,

    Dave Munson
    dmunson@wideopenwest.com

  • #2
    dave, it's best to replace the gal. line out to the meter and not have this happen again.

    but to answer your question, there are 2 ways to do this.

    threding in a recess wall cavity can be done with a proper threader that is designed for this situation. a co. that makes the set up is "rems" the issue is that you won't find this tool soon enough and chances are the pipe is too weak to properly thread.

    i would use a mechanical slip joint coupling (bronze). this way there is no threading. a word of caution is to properly restrain the 2 sides of the coulping to prevent the pull out of the pipes. a good way is to install a bronze ground clamp on both sides and a piece of copper ground wire to jump the rubber gaskets.

    once again the best and proper way is to replace the steel main when time and weather permit.

    rick.
    phoebe it is

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK
      dave, it's best to replace the gal. line out to the meter and not have this happen again.

      but to answer your question, there are 2 ways to do this.

      threding in a recess wall cavity can be done with a proper threader that is designed for this situation. a co. that makes the set up is "rems" the issue is that you won't find this tool soon enough and chances are the pipe is too weak to properly thread.

      i would use a mechanical slip joint coupling (bronze). this way there is no threading. a word of caution is to properly restrain the 2 sides of the coulping to prevent the pull out of the pipes. a good way is to install a bronze ground clamp on both sides and a piece of copper ground wire to jump the rubber gaskets.

      once again the best and proper way is to replace the steel main when time and weather permit.

      rick.
      Rick,

      Thanks for the post.

      Dave

      Comment


      • #4
        Anything other than replacing the pipe back to the main is just a temporary fix.
        Speaking of temporary,what about an above ground temporary fix using polyethylene or similar. Acroos the yard and in the window and hook on anywhere accessible. Just remember to cap the old feed. My house was hooked up this way for 6 months. I did have to be careful with the lawnmower.
        Perhaps above ground and uninsulated wont work in your climate?
        Last edited by Australian Plumber Josh; 04-10-2006, 12:34 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          I agree with Rick on replacing the service. I would core-hole the basement wall, replace the gal. pipe all the way to the meter.

          But, if you are bound and determined to leave it, I have to tell you that I am not a big fan of compression couplings in the interior of the building. Especially if it is used on old crusty pipe. I think you would be better off attempting to thread it, than you are leaving a compression coupling in a basement wall.

          Unfortunatly your service is 3/4", If it was larger I would suggest a Roust-A-Bout Coupling, which is manufactured by Victaulic. It has internal jaws that grip both ends of the pipe. See http://www.victaulic.com/docs/lit/14.02.pdf
          the dog

          Comment


          • #6
            That's a quandary. OK, ok, I feel like being Captain Obvious today.

            Sight un-seen, it's hard to say how I'd tackle it. Since I'm a hard head, if it was possible, I'd get a jackhammer and see if I could bust open a space back to just around the end of the galvie just on one side, about foot and half long and just wide enough to get a Ridgid 700 (or 600) and squeeze it in the elongated hole you made with the hammer and try to get the head over the pipe, once you do that you have it made just press the trigger and get some threads on it that way.
            Last edited by AZPlumber; 04-16-2006, 06:21 PM.

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