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icemaker installation

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  • icemaker installation

    First, let me say I'm a home-owner, not a plumber. So if I say something stupid, that's why.

    I've got a 2" long stub of 1/2" copper pipe, and I could put a compression gate valve on it, or I could just install one of those piercing saddle valves. That'd be easier and maybe quicker, but would I live to regret it?

    (I didn't mention solder because I'm afraid I'll burn down the house if I try to use a torch.)

    How do y'all feel about PVC-reinforced supply line for the last few feet, to prevent the fridge from rolling over the poly line and causing a leak?

  • #2
    Ed,
    Go with the piercing valve they work pretty well.

    I usually leave a loop of tubing behind the fridge and tape it to the back to avoid rolling over it with the fridge.

    John
    Felciano Plumbing & Heating<P>http://www.felciano-plumbing.com

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    • #3
      do not use a small saddle piercing valve for and icemaker install. I just replaced my mother's with a 1/2 ball valve with adaptors or bushing from 1/2-1/4" tubing and used plastic pipe. I used one of those saddle valves on my brothers pipe and will so be replacing it with the ball valve.

      Those saddle valves, leak or get clogged go with a more expensive valve you will save in the long run on plumbing or appliance service calls.
      Andrew S. DeCecco<br />Sunny D HVAC<br />archblackmage@yahoo.com<br />aim archblackmage

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      • #4
        Saddle valves are bad. They leak, they almost never shut off if you need to service your appliance and they are illegal in many States.

        The very best job would be to run half inch copper up through the floor behind your refridgerator. Then install a chrome fixture stop or ball valve with reducer. Run a short piece of copper to a charcoal filter. Then leave two full loops before you make your connection to the appliance.

        If you absolutely do not want to solder then there are compression stops made that will work far better than a saddle valve and require no solder work. Select one that is sized where you do not need an adapter after the valve. I assume your pipe is in a basement below the appliance. If you intend to run your 1/8 tube up from the floor please drill at least a 1/2 hole to help avoid kinking your tubing. I strongly suggest a charcoal filter before your ice maker regardless of how you make your connection. Copper will give you a far better job than that flimsy plastic garbage some hardware stores like to peddle.

        Be sure to flush your pipe thouroughly before connecting it to the ice maker and if you decide to use a filter, flush the line before connecting to that also.

        Enjoy your ice cold beverages this summer.
        Work hard, Play hard, Sleep easy.

        Comment


        • #5
          A COMPRESSION ANGLESTOP IS THE WAY TO GO. LOOK INTO THE NEWER STYLE BALL VALVE DESIGN. BRASSCRAFT IS ONE OF THE MAJOR MAKERS OF THESE VALVES. THE VALVE IS DESIGNED TO USE A COMPRESSION FERRUEL ON THE 1/2'' COPPER/ 5/8'' NOMINAL. AND O THE OUTLET SIDE 1/4'' OD. COMPRESSION. I LIKE TO USE THE BRAIDED STAINLESS CONNECTORS FOR MY FINAL CONNECTION. 6' IS GOOD AND ALLOWS FOR FINAL ROLLING OUT AND IN. MOST NEWER FRIDGES INCORPORATE AN INTERNAL FILTER. PROBLEM IS THEY ARE APPROX. $39.00. IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO THE SHUT OFF VALVE WITHOUT ROLLING OUT THE FRIDGE EVERY 6 MONTHS, THEN I SUGGEST A FILTER BE INSTALLED PRIOR TO THE FRIDGE. MUCH LESS $. IF IT'S TOO HARD OR A HASSLE TO MOVE THE FRIDGE, THEN USE THE BUILT IN FILTER.
          SADDLE VALVES ARE NORTORIOUS ON PLUGGING UP WITH MINERAL DEPOSITS AND NOT SHUTTING OFF. ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE SELF TAPPING/ PIERCING. ONLY BENEFIT FROM THIS STYLE IS THERE IS NO NEED TO SHUT OFF THE WATER FOR THE ORIGINAL CONNECTION ONTO COPPER TUBING. WILL NOT SELF PIERCE ON STEEL PIPE.
          MOST IMPORTANTLY- CHECK FOR LEAKS PRIOR TO ROLLING THE FRIDGE BACK INTO PLACE. ESPECIALLY IF IT ROLLS BETWEEN 2 CABINETS. NO WAY TO SEE BEHIND. SUGGEST TO CUT A STRIP OF CARDBOARD TO SLIDE UNDER FRIDGE NEAR WATER CONNECTION. LET IT SIT FOR 15 MINUTES AND THEN SLIDE OUT CARDBOARD TO CHECK FOR WET SPOT, LEAK. BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY.

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          • #6
            Saddle valves are illegal and a big waste of time...By code no matter which route u take...the shutoff has to be on teh same floor as teh appliance it is serving...Ie....cannot use a saddle valve under teh house for the refrigerator..

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            • #7
              DawgFan,

              You are correct about codes requiring a valve on the same floor as the appliance. but my suggestion was based on Viking Eds reluctance to do any soldering and his implications about how comfortable he was running waterlines. For him, at least in MHO, the fewest connections possible will give him the best job. When or if he sells he can have a plumber bring it up to code at that time using the proceeds from the home sale to pay for the plumbers time.
              Work hard, Play hard, Sleep easy.

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