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rusting water heater fitting

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  • rusting water heater fitting

    I install electrc water heater 14 months ago. Came out of water heater with 3/4" galv. nipple 3" long into female copper adapter, and then 2 feet copper into stop. Same type piping on hot water side. The problem is the cold water nipple looks rusty. No water showing at fittings, but it looks as if it had leaked at some point. I removed the fittings and the nipple looked to have small chunks of metal missing. at the start of the treads. the hot water side outside looks normal. Any ideas?

  • #2
    I am not a plumber, but having a background in corrosion control, I can tell you that with galvanized hooked directly to copper, the galvanized pipe will corrode away. You may want to consider what is known as a di-electric connector. It has a ceramic piece in it to insulate the two metals, and will also help protect the inside of your water heater from corroding away due to the copper piping. You will need these on both the hot and cold pipes. If installing a dielectric, be very careful not to overtighten as this will crack the ceramic. After the leak check, it should be checked with an Ohm meter to ensure there is no electrical continuity between the two sides.
    Please wait to hear from the professionals, because they know the correct codes and attachment procedures, and there may be other fittings that will acomplish the same thing cheaper or with less risk of messing it up that I don't know about .
    Practicing at practical wood working


    • #3
      What Gofor posted was pretty much right on. The galvanize is scraficial to the copper and will continue to corrode. Brass nipples would have been a better choice than galvanive but either way you need to have unions at the water heater to be legal so you might as well stick with the galvanize and add di-electric unions.

      "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

      I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!


      • #4
        an easier way to accomplish this is to add a flex connector to both the hot and cold. this will give you the union connections you need and also the dielectric. i would still change the gal. nipples to brass and you'll be fine. make sure to properly strap your heater with a seismic restraint.

        phoebe it is


        • #5
          Another idea

          Our local inspectors said we can no longer use dielectric unions because they are getting to much sediment in them. I have used brass nipples for years with good luck. I then go with copper or pex on top of that depending on the vent location.
          One of the best lessons I learned from my father is when he did nothing to help me. I then learned to help my self.