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  • Shower Pan Leaks

    the rubber gasket between my new drain in basement floor and shower pan do not seal the drain does not set perfectly parallel to the pan , thier is a small
    gap on one side of rubber when it is making contact on other side,i can not
    screw it down tight enough,pan is not very flexible and drain cover will
    not take a lot of twisting before you bend it up.
    any ideas
    thanks
    bob m

  • #2
    you could tear the whole shower out and re-set position of pipe or
    caulk the siht out of it. and hope that will seal the gap. is there a wall that could be moved to give you a adjustment. Take a picture of your new bathroom addition it may help to see for ideas to come up.( Note I'am putting myself at great risk from getting DOG BIT.)

    Comment


    • #3
      bob, i am assuming the drain is part of a pre-fabbed fiberglass shower pan

      the pipe riser is plastic the opening in the concrete should allow for some movement

      2-suggestions,

      #1- dig down to the trap and cut the riser or trap arm, install a no hub band (2'') and then you can reattach the assy. with a slight tweak to square up the riser.

      #2- i think you used pvc pipe you can use a heat gun (not a torch) to soften the riser and square it up.

      once again, this is all based on my own picture of what you have going on.

      the dog will have to chase me to costa rica to take a bite out of me tonight. be back in 8 days

      rick.
      phoebe it is

      Comment


      • #4
        Hopefully you are testing this in the rough and not the finish. Anything other than doing it right will cause you years of frustration, repairs and eventually disclosing the improper installation to the next owner.

        You need to reposition your riser by removing the shower and make sure the riser is properly positioned. Sometimes you want to try soap liquid soap on the rubber to get it to seat properly but the riser needs to be properly located first.

        Mark
        "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

        I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

        Comment


        • #5
          my drain is cemented to my 2.0 riser and i screw drain cover down
          thru pan.thier is another type that you install to pan first and then
          push it down on risor it has rubber seals permenitly fastened
          inside pipe,i could redig and use this,my bath is just roughed in.
          would you recommend this.i want the best long lasting solution.
          thanks
          bob m

          Comment


          • #6
            Bob,

            I would be interested to see which drain you used. Is it possible to give a manufacturer name and model #?

            Mark
            "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

            I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

            Comment


            • #7
              You're problem is this:

              1) Your drain pipe is roughed-in wrong.
              2) You are using a threaded strainer.


              I don't deal in residential shower pans much, but I do deal in commercial floor mounted mop sinks, which connect to the drain in the same manner.

              I always order "caulked" connections on them, because the threaded connection that you are using must be exact. And I mean EXACT. It is almost impossible to get that exact on a commercial layout when you are sometimes pulling measurments 85' off of a string line.

              But, that is not your problem at hand.

              I would suggest the following:

              1) Utah's solution. Dig-up the pipe and relocate it to the proper dimentions.

              or

              2) If it is close enough to get through the drain opening and sit flat, buy a caulked pan and lead it in. But not being a plumber this is probably not an option for you. You would have to know how to do a proper "lead and oakum" joint.

              ps. There maybe some members who will say "how can he lead-in a plastic pipe?" It can be done on ABS because I've done it.
              the dog

              Comment


              • #8
                plumbdog10
                yes leading is out of the question for me
                being exact is for sure the gasket touches on one side and i can only
                get a .010 shim on other side.
                what i did was when i poured concrete i set pan in place and screwed
                drain in while cement was wet and pipe was flexible and i thought this
                would keep it in place,didn't work.you are right i would not reccomend
                these threaded strainers.
                looks like my only fix is to go with plumer ricks idea a 2.0" no hub band so pipe will be flexible and square it self up.lowes sells a no caulk drain it slips over
                2.0" pipe with rubber seal inside has anyone ever used them.

                i am more than roughed in as i said concrete poured



                link to lowes for drain pictures
                threaded
                http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...001&lpage=none
                no caulk
                http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...101&lpage=none

                Comment


                • #9
                  I have used the one with the seal inside with no problem.
                  SSG, U.S. Army
                  Retired
                  K.I.S.S., R.T.F.M.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Bob,

                    Okay I looked at the drain you are trying to use and I want to tell you not to feel bad. That is one of the poorest designed drains I have ever seen. Your shower drain is impossible to get to once you finish your bathroom so it is important to use a quality drain..

                    If it were me I would go spend a little extra money and buy a brass drain body like the Casper or Oatey drain body. They install to the pan with plumbers putty and are pretty much foolproof. They also have models with rubber caulk rings so you don't have to lead them in. Here is a link to give you an idea of the design:

                    http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/in...drainhowto.pdf

                    The drain shown is still a plastic drain but they make the same drain in brass. The brass drain is far superior to the plastic drain.

                    Good luck and let us know where you end up.

                    Mark
                    Last edited by ToUtahNow; 11-04-2006, 03:52 PM.
                    "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

                    I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Weather you take my, Utah's, or anyone else's advice, the drain pipe has to be roughed in correctly. None of them will work correctly unless it is at least close, and by that I'm talking 1/4" to 3/8" within the center of drain measurement.

                      So the answer is to get your drain pipe correct, then find the easiest drain connection.

                      I suggested lead because it is the most forgiving, but takes knowledge you probably don't have (and you admitted).

                      There is no easy solution to a bad rough-in in this case.

                      This is an example of why plumbers are paid what they are. So many people think we are overpaid because they see a shower roughed-in and say "well, anyone can glue pipes togather".

                      To your credit you have never said that, and we are tring to help you. I only use that as an example.


                      So in conclusion: I would fix the rough-in to the correct dimentions, and then use the drain Utah suggested. He's usually right. But he has an advantage because he's older. And, maybe...............just a little bit wiser then smart asses like me.

                      Good luck.
                      the dog

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i dug up floor around shower drain, i went out and bought a brass drain that slides over pipe with rubber seal that can be compressed and replaced if
                        needed works great no leaks.
                        their is lot to this plumbing business,i made it thru thanks to all the help
                        from all you guy's on forum.
                        thanks
                        bob m

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Congratsulation Bob
                          "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

                          I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            i cut my vacation short to give advise and it's fixed

                            i'm out of here

                            rick.
                            phoebe it is

                            Comment

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