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Sound insulation on basement ceiling.

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  • Sound insulation on basement ceiling.

    I’m putting an office in my basement and I would like to put something on the ceiling (which is now exposed) to get rid of all the noise upstairs. Mainly, impact noise caused by moving and walking around in the kitchen above. Has anyone used something like Green Glue to glue a drywall to the boards below, between the joists? Will that work?

    Also, is there anything I can do to get rid of the squeaking floor above? I will be upgrading the floors next year so I can screw in the boards more tightly before installing the hardwood, but is there anything I can do to help get rid of the squeaking from the other side of the floor, since it is already exposed?



  • #2
    Re: Sound insulation on basement ceiling.

    this is how i did a home entertanment room once it to was in the basement.

    if i remember we used r-22 insulation in the ceiling two layers
    r- 19 with paper in the studed walls and sealed every thing with foam.
    when it was time for dry wall we put two 3/8" layers on one going up and down the other side to side. this was done on both sides of the wall. the door recevied a rubber seal and a sweep as well.
    now all this was done to keep the noise in, but for you i would say since your room is built call in a insulation company and see if they can "blow"in so insulation in your ceiling, and tell them what it is for so the can bid it right for you
    Last edited by oldslowchevy; 10-26-2007, 10:51 AM.
    9/11/01, never forget.


    • #3
      Re: Sound insulation on basement ceiling.

      I'm sure you will get several different answers on this but I'll tell you what worked (and didn't) for me.

      For my home office in the basement I put up a 1-1/2" metal track with rubber isolaters between the joists and the track. I forget what it's called. Sound attenuation insulation not the stuff you find at Home Depot get this through insulation supply company. Then 1/2" drywall. Pretty quiet in here although this proved to be more expensive that what others told me to do, put up 2 sheets of 5/8" The rest of the basement has 1/2" drywall right to the joist with fiberglass batting above. Still very noisey. A few throw rugs on the tile floor helped out down here with absorbing the sound.

      As for the squeaking floors I glued shims from underneath to the subfloor and joists in the heavy traffic areas. This was a PITA but worth it. Where that didn't work I used my finish nailer from above and filled the holes with putty. 2 years later still no squeaks.

      Hope this helps


      • #4
        Re: Sound insulation on basement ceiling.

        Is your floor up above 3/4" T&G. If yes, you can screw directly down with special screws, they break off in the middle of the boards. Just walk your floor, and listen for the squeaky parts, then run a screw down into that area, simple.

        As far as a sound barrier for the floor system, there are some products out there which will fit your need, just google what you want, I do not recommend Batt Insulation. They do now make a wallboard that is a sound barrier type, ask your local building supply store for this product. If no one has it, then go with a minimum of 1" thick wallboard on your ceiling.
        Great Link for a Construction Owner/Tradesmen, and just say Garager sent you....

        A good climbing rope will last you 3 to 5 years, a bad climbing rope will last you a life time !!!


        • #5
          Re: Sound insulation on basement ceiling.

          i am building a recording studio,here in Memphis.We are using A product called rockwool for sound.It comes it 3x4 sheets,and you can cut with a kitchen knife,just like a cake.It comes in different a thickness for each app.We are also using accoustic caulk.It skins over but never dries hard.
          If you're ceiling is 2x6 or 2x8 joists with a floor on top.Caulk any and every crack, split,split,void.any penatration is a sound leak.If You hang sheetrock and miss the joist, leave the screw in the hole. If you use plywood caulk all the edges of the ply,then push the next the next sheet into the caulk. Use can also use sound board,it comes in 4x8 sheets.You can cut it with a razor knife.Don't use a saw,the dust will choke everybody,It cuts very easy.Sound board is kinda like black board,but has no asphalt in it.
          In the studio we used 30 lb felt,5/8 firerock taped,3/4 ply,soundboard,and 5/8 firerock taped,then ran 2x2 around 701 sheet insulation,then streched fabric over the 2x2's then a 1 inch space then and another wall with the same layers...Hope this helps. Good luck
          If you choose not to decide,you still have made a choice.


          • #6
            Re: Sound insulation on basement ceiling.


            Some pretty good recommendations thus far. Please consider the following:

            Ideally you want to acoustically disconnect your basement from the rest of the house. To do so you need to avoid areas where differing members are allowed to transmit sound across the floor/ceiling (or wall). It sounds easier than it actually is - especially getting rid of or attenuating the low frequency noises (they can carry quite far).

            Poke here: for a fairly decent and holistic approach which addresses your conditions.

            Please note - I am not an employee of Owens Corning but they are a former client of mine. I have been to their research facility outside of Columbus, OH and I have heard first hand how effective their Quiet Zone system can be when installed properly.

            Hope this helps.


            • #7
              Re: Sound insulation on basement ceiling.

              I just did a similar venture in completing my basement. Our family room (my "man den") is in the basement, with the 50" plasma and surround sound, as well as the home office for my gaming activities. So, considering the bedrooms are going to be directly above, I did the following:
              • Shimmed the 1st floor floor-joists, from below, where needed. Also drove in the occasional 1" screw through the topcap of the pre-engineered truses that make up the support structure for the 1st floor, on an angle into the 1st floor subfloor (be careful you don't go all the way through the subfloor, or you may damage a tile or whatever is above the subfloor).
              • Spent the 40 cents per 6 feet, and put that ugly foam insulation on ALL my water pipes, hot and cold pipes. Also, added in some extra bracing where needed, and will be installing a surge absorber on each line in the utility room, to stop the pipes from wanting to move around and bang when the water is quickly turned on or off.
              • When we put in the HVAC ducting for the downstairs, we had it all run off of it's own dedicated trunk line. It may seem like overkill, but it will hopefully stop the sound from simply travelling a ceiling vent in the basement, going down a small section, and then out a floor vent in the upstairs kitchen. This way, sound would have to travel down the basement's trunk, into the furnace, and then along the upstair's HVAC trunk, before going out. Something simple that cost a couple extra bucks to do it right, but if not done, could have negated all the time and money I would spend in other sound insulation methods. (Also, make sure to foil tape all the seams and joints of our HVAC ducting. It's well worth it, and often overlooked.)
              • Used Roxul "Safe & Sound" for within the ceiling and ALL interior walls and spaces (every last nook and cranny) of the whole basement. Its a mineral insulation (a little bit different from fiberglass, but still as much of a pain in the arse - definitely wear a mask and safety goggles). It's for noise and fire protection, and is great at both. Since I had room, I actually used 2 layers of the stuff in the ceilings. Just make sure that you leave slight gaps - don't let it touch the floor above, or the drywall below - the slight air space between helps with the sound insulation.
              • Regular sheetrock drywall on walls and ceilings.
              • Caulked any small gaps to fill them in if they were deeper, prior to mudding and taping.
              Seems to be working thus far. Just finishing up the trim on the basement office today.