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  • Shed project questions

    I need some help. I've been asked to build a shed, 10x12 post and beam framing. Since I've never done this before, I have a couple questions about framing size/materials:

    1) floor construction - Its going to be pt 2x's on cement blocks. Would 2x6 be sufficient 16 oc, or should I use 2x8's?

    2) framing - My idea was to use 4x6 posts kd, if I can get them (there is a saw mill near by where I can probably order them rough cut, but I'm concerned about them being green/warping/twisting/checking). I'll be incorporating knee bracing and cross members to provide a nailing surface for the sheathing. Are my concerns for the green milled lumber valid?

    3) top beam - I was thinking doubled 2x8's, but would 4x6's be sufficient?

    4) roof - Peak height is going to be 12'. I wanted to avoid collar ties since they want a storage loft as well. I was thinking 2x6' rafters tied to a triple 2x8 ridge beam using rafter ties.

    I plan on checking to see if the town this person lives in has any code restrictions for non-permanent stuctures, but I wanted to get some objective opinions on my approach to this.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Re: Shed project questions

    on the floor you can easily put a support block in the center if desired, but I would think the 2x6 would do, I did not get a strength chart out tho, but it is a storage shed, if it was a house I would suggest more.

    the green lumber I think is a valid concern,

    in general I think your over building, as many sheds are built with 2x4's and many times 24" oc, using 2x4 for the rafters as well and even the ridge board, or small trusses, (my old garage has 2x4 rafters and it is 24 feet wide, no I am sure it is not code, but it has only been standing for 70 plus years),

    http://media.popularmechanics.com/do...shed001new.pdf
    this is the story on it
    http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...t/1766661.html

    another free plan for a 8' x 10' unit, much simpler, http://just-sheds.com/1201.pdf

    http://www.archchemicals.com/Fed/WOL...orage_shed.pdf

    some more "free plans" http://www.buildeazy.com/plan_links_sheds.html

    this one is totally over kill for I am sure what your wanting to do but is a little more on the post and beam style (not plans exactly) but interesting to see,
    http://www.h2othouse.com/html/greenhousebooklet3.htm

    I would think you could go all 4x4's for your timber frame look at 4 to 6 foot spacing with a 2x4 center harizontal for the board and batten siding (walls) using the 4x4 for the rafters and the ridge if what your after is the post and beam look or construction,

    you may want to go to a 4x6 for the loft floor joists.
    Last edited by BHD; 05-05-2008, 11:24 AM.
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    • #3
      Re: Shed project questions

      Thanks BHD. I thought I was overbuilding too, but I'd also rather be safe than sorry. My own garage is 2x4 rafters with collar ties. I'm estimate it was built sometime in the 50's. I was planning on either using a support block method or use bridging on the floor (they want to store a riding mower.) And I had planned on the spans having a center post as well (leaving a 5-6 ft open area, supported by the knee bracing. (I forgot to mention, I've got to incorporate a single door; 'big' window; and a double door on the sidewall for the mower.

      They also want a gable end structure so that ruled out the slant roof option.

      As it was put to me (by the landscape architect they hired): they want it "rustic, but not too rustic", and prefered the post and beam look on the inside.

      I was going to use 2x6's for the loft with 1/2 cdx as the floor, unless they tell me they're planning on putting an engine block up there or something ridiculous like that.

      Thanks for the links. I don't think I'll show them the last one though. On that one, all I've got to say is 'yikes'.

      I've got a slight advantage on the post and beam building though. My house was built early 1870's post and beam. I can just look at my walls and get a structural idea.

      And thanks for confirming my concerns on the green timbers. I'm okay trying the rough cut board and batten being a little green, but not the structural members.

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