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O/H door header

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  • O/H door header

    Forgot the bottom header plate, does that matter? I went ahead and put in between the cripples, is that gonna be ok?
    If you don't know, ASK!

  • #2
    Re: O/H door header

    Originally posted by Mech View Post
    Forgot the bottom header plate, does that matter? I went ahead and put in between the cripples, is that gonna be ok?
    I have no clue as to what a bottom header plate is, I even googled it, nothing. I'm guessing you made your header the placed a 2x4 or 2x6 on the bottom part of your header. If that is the case, don't worry about it. Or are you talking about the window sill plate, if you skipped that part, thats not cool. I did google up a drawing of this area, if your framing looks like this, then your good to go, if not point out what area your talking about....

    Great Link for a Construction Owner/Tradesmen, and just say Garager sent you....

    http://www.contractorspub.com

    A good climbing rope will last you 3 to 5 years, a bad climbing rope will last you a life time !!!

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    • #3
      Re: O/H door header

      When a header is built you have one 2x6 on the flat and then 2 or 3 boards on edge. My application calls for 3, 2x10s on edge nailed together, I forgot the 2x6 on the flat. I didnt notice this until I started getting ready to install the o/h doors. The way I understand it, the one on the flat is there to prevent warping. What I did was nail one on to the bottom of the header, in-between the cripples.
      If you don't know, ASK!

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      • #4
        Re: O/H door header

        Are you sure? 2x6 on the flat would be approximately 5.5" while 3 2x10 would only equal out to 4.5" this all seems very bizarre to me. Who is the one that told you to put 3 2x10 for your application? A 2x6 on the flat would really do nothing to resist warping if you properly laminated a header. My suggestion would be if you are using 2x6 framed walls to get a 6x header too match. However in the vast majority of remodeling I have done the walls were 2x4 framed and would either use a 4x header or 2- 2x with a 1/2" plywood strip laminated between them. Please beware headers are very important structural elements and should not be improperly sized or installed.

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        • #5
          Re: O/H door header

          Yes some people have built with studs laying flat on the bottom of a header. However I haven't seen this done in years. Don't worry about this, its no biggy if you didn't add it, its no biggy if you do. But what does matter is the height of your header, which determines the proper size opening for window or door span.

          Nailing blocks between the cripples was a waste of time, this didn't do anything for you.

          In a 2"x6" wall, header is 3- 2"x6"x8"x10"x12" w/a 1/2 plywood sandwiched between each one. This does give you the total of 5 1/2" for that thickness of a wall, which by the way is the way we build homes here, or thicker.

          If you are still worried, give me your span opening and your header height and I'll look it up to see if you need to be worried or not. Also if this is a load barring wall an exterior wall or a non load barring wall.
          Great Link for a Construction Owner/Tradesmen, and just say Garager sent you....

          http://www.contractorspub.com

          A good climbing rope will last you 3 to 5 years, a bad climbing rope will last you a life time !!!

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: O/H door header

            I'm on the volunteer fire dept. here in Grunthal Manitoba Canada and the Chief, being a proffessional builder himself came to take a look and when I asked him about it he said all the thing you all said. Thank you for everything. Your questions made me do alot of research and I've learned alot.
            If you don't know, ASK!

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