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  • Sealing osb

    Hi Everyone!
    I'm new to the Forum and was hoping that maybe I could get some helpful tips. I am going to be building a small 12' x 16' shop to do my woodworking in and have a question concerning OSB. Money is limited, so I was forced to buy 7/16" Exposure 1 OSB for the exterior walls and am now thinking I might have made a big mistake. I know I should have went with T1- 11 but it was $22.00 a sheet more and I just can't afford that. Anyway, I know OSB shouldn't be left exposed, so is there something out there that I can seal it with that is reasonably priced and will last till I can afford something better? I know people paint it and it lasts a few years, I just want to make sure it doesn't fall apart before I have time to invest in something better to cover the walls with. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions!
    Rob

  • #2
    Re: Sealing osb

    Originally posted by roblj65 View Post
    Hi Everyone!
    I'm new to the Forum and was hoping that maybe I could get some helpful tips. I am going to be building a small 12' x 16' shop to do my woodworking in and have a question concerning OSB. Money is limited, so I was forced to buy 7/16" Exposure 1 OSB for the exterior walls and am now thinking I might have made a big mistake. I know I should have went with T1- 11 but it was $22.00 a sheet more and I just can't afford that. Anyway, I know OSB shouldn't be left exposed, so is there something out there that I can seal it with that is reasonably priced and will last till I can afford something better? I know people paint it and it lasts a few years, I just want to make sure it doesn't fall apart before I have time to invest in something better to cover the walls with. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions!
    Rob
    Sealing might work for a short time. Why not get some 15 or 30# felt paper and install it on the walls for now.

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    • #3
      Re: Sealing osb

      will the #15 or 30 felt keep the osb from getting wet?

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      • #4
        Re: Sealing osb

        Yep.... Install horizontally like you would with siding, start at the bottom and overlap about 6 inches. Use roof tins with your nails to hold the felt on.

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        • #5
          Re: Sealing osb

          Originally posted by roblj65 View Post
          will the #15 or 30 felt keep the osb from getting wet?

          yes it will. just as Killavolt suggested in is post. Just nail it good or it will curl up from the sun exposure and rip off in the wind.

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          • #6
            Re: Sealing osb

            Originally posted by killavolt View Post
            Yep.... Install horizontally like you would with siding, start at the bottom and overlap about 6 inches. Use roof tins with your nails to hold the felt on.

            http://www.thegreathardwarestore.com...ils-s/1157.htm

            Here are plastic caps there the same thing Killavolt suggested. You can get them at HD & Lowes

            Good Luck

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            • #7
              Re: Sealing osb

              Instead of roofing felt, which will work, you might consider using Titanium UDL 30. (TITANIUMâ„¢ UDL-30 is 6 times lighter and 20 times stronger than #30 felt) You can quickly install it using a STINGER CH38 HAMMER TACKER PLASTIC CAP STAPLER. very fast and holds tight even in strong winds.

              Link to UDL: www.interwrap.com/Titanium/udl_30_FB.html

              Link to Stiinger: http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15708
              Measure TWICE - Cut ONCE! 'Cause the Lumber Stretcher is broken!
              I'd throw more things away, but I'm afraid someone might want them...
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              • #8
                Re: Sealing osb

                roll roofing or even jsut shingles, will work for a low cost siding, you may need to "glue" the tabs dow as they will not hardly seal on a vertical surface, but at one time they make a brick look alike roll roofing, but I have used and seen roofing shings used for low cost sideing, and it is nearly manitance free.

                roll roofing is basicly 90 pound felt with a granular surface like a shingle, about one square per roll, or about 100 sq feet, normaly one can get it a few diffrnet colors,

                http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-156868/Detail
                http://www.atlasroofing.com/residential/msr.asp
                What is asphalt shingle siding?
                http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/answ...tion#l4q108042
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                • #9
                  Re: Sealing osb

                  I did this exact same thing: I framed and sheathed a garage in the fall, but couldn't put up siding until the spring.
                  So I bought a ten foot wide roll of Typar (cheap Tyvec) and wrapped that sucker like a Christmas gift.
                  It worked great because it went up in an hour (galvanized staples) and in the spring I put up siding right on top of it.
                  This is definitley a temporary, water resistant solution, and not a permanent waterproof solution, but it's cheap and quick and my OSB stayed dry.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Sealing osb

                    The Titanium is a good suggestion - much stronger than Typar or Tyvek. I used some Rooftop Guard on shed walls this summer before putting up new board and batten and it worked great. You can leave it exposed for 6 months, which is a lot longer than Typar. Typar/Tyvek can rip with your hands - the synthetic roof felts are much stronger and must be cut with a knife.

                    The big problem with OSB is expansion when it gets wet, and it won't go back to the original shape like plywood. So make sure you lap well and seal any cut ends. Cap stapler is a good idea for attaching, but cap ring nails would be better. Some guys have had nightmare stories with that stinger stapler, and for the cost of the stapler, you can get some extra cap nails. Nailing the cap ring nails will take longer, but generally anything done right and well takes longer time.

                    I would even seal seam the edges of the overlap seams with Sashco Lexel.

                    Keep in mind though, that if the shed is unheated the material is going to get wet just from natural frost/freeze/humid conditions. But it shouldn't get wet right through enough to rot.

                    Get some siding on it as soon as you can and good luck.
                    I'm on "The List" and I love it!!

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