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  • questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

    I have to replace the sheathing and vertical wood siding on my garage because it was not done properly when the original owner converted the carport to a garage sometime in the 70's. Water has leaked in over the years and is rotting the sill plate and the lower part of the 2x4 studs.
    My questions are:
    What thickness of OSB should I use for the sheathing? I imagine something close to 1/2" but I'd like to know what the code is.
    My garage floor is a slab on grade and there is good drainage all around but I don't have more than 3" from the top of the slab to the ground so are there any other precautions I should take such as flashing on the lower edge?
    Concerning the house wrap I know I should tape it with that 'red tape' but what is the effect of all the nail holes that I am going to put in the house wrap when I install the siding?
    I want to use vertical wood siding (likely pine) to match what was there before and the rest of the house but is vertical siding worse than other options at keeping water out?
    Any recommendations on what house wrap to buy?
    Any other tips you want to give me would be most appreciated.
    Andrew

  • #2
    Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

    Code for siding is 3/8" plywood on 16" centers, I use 7/16 OSB on 16".
    Code for slab on grade is for the top of the slab to be 6" above ground level, your siding should come below the sil plate by about 3/4". With your ground level being so close to the top of the slab I would suggest that you put a strip of gravel around the edge of your garage (river rock would look nicer) as grass would encourage moisture to sit on the bottom edge of the siding. If you plan on heating the structure I would take this opportunity to add 1.5" extruded polystyrene between the sheathing and the siding so you can bring the insulation factor up to R20 including the R13 batt in the interior walls. Most big box stores now have their name on the house wrap for advertising but the underlying product should be Dupont TYVEK.
    What is your plan to fix the rotten sil and studs? If it is that bad you may have to jack the wall and replace them one wall at a time. If you are going to replace them use pressure treated sil plates and dont forget the gasket between the concrete and sil. If it was a botched job check to make sure the sil anchors are correct. Minimum code is 1/2" anchor bolts embedded a minimum of 4" into the concrete and space a maximum of 7'10" OC.

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    • #3
      Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

      Home Depot carry's Tyvek, Lowes has their own brand, which is not tyvek, but a woven heavy duty plastic material, I have used both and they both hold up just fine and living in Montana, it is imperative to have a product that holds up.

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      • #4
        Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

        Like wbrooks, I use 7/16" OSB on 16" centers for the sheathing. He also raised a good point with the polysterene to help bring up your r-value, but it is up to you. As for your question about nail holes from the siding, don't worry about it, but be sure to tape the seams with tuck tape. Also like wbrooks mentioned, pt lumber would be a good choice for your sill should you have to replace it.

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        • #5
          Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

          Can some one please shed some light as to why we should not worry about thousands of nail holes penetrating the house wrap / building paper while installing the siding? Does this not completely compromise the house wrap?

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          • #6
            Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

            Originally posted by ewarpin View Post
            Can some one please shed some light as to why we should not worry about thousands of nail holes penetrating the house wrap / building paper while installing the siding? Does this not completely compromise the house wrap?
            When you pop a nail through the siding, the nail compresses the house wrap reasonably tightly between the siding and the solid layer on the other side of the housewrap. Thus, the housewrap serves as a gasket to seal around the nail.

            This isn't a perfect seal. But perfection isn't something you get with construction. All the materials we use - including tyvek housewrap, tape, etc are vapor barriers - impediments to free infiltration of moisture - but are far, far from impermeable and do not form hermetic-quality seals.

            These techniques work well enough if done competently, and are within the cost range that makes them practical for something on the scale of home construction.
            Last edited by Andy_M; 09-09-2010, 08:43 PM.

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            • #7
              Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

              Originally posted by Andy_M View Post
              When you pop a nail through the siding, the nail compresses the house wrap reasonably tightly between the siding and the solid layer on the other side of the housewrap. Thus, the housewrap serves as a gasket to seal around the nail.

              This isn't a perfect seal. But perfection isn't something you get with construction. All the materials we use - including tyvek housewrap, tape, etc are vapor barriers - impediments to free infiltration of moisture - but are far, far from impermeable and do not form hermetic-quality seals.

              These techniques work well enough if done competently, and are within the cost range that makes them practical for something on the scale of home construction.
              Very nice explanation. Just an addition, it is not really good to put many nails in the wrap because it also destroy the look of the wrap.
              Last edited by rotech; 08-21-2011, 12:24 PM.
              Water Damage | Water Damage Elgin IL

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              • #8
                Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

                something to look into...I've read reports that tyvek breaks down with long term contact with OSB, one stucco company I work with now has gone back to the traditional black paper against the OSB.

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                • #9
                  Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

                  Originally posted by wyly View Post
                  something to look into...I've read reports that tyvek breaks down with long term contact with OSB, one stucco company I work with now has gone back to the traditional black paper against the OSB.
                  48 years ago we sheathed with beautiful 1x8" pine boards, wind
                  braces with 10" thrust blocks, and tar paper. Lots of changes ,EXCEPT, I still use TAR PAPER !
                  I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

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                  • #10
                    Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

                    Originally posted by Andy_M View Post
                    This isn't a perfect seal. But perfection isn't something you get with construction. All the materials we use - including tyvek housewrap, tape, etc are vapor barriers - impediments to free infiltration of moisture - but are far, far from impermeable and do not form hermetic-quality seals.
                    I think the use of tyvek is that it is not a vapor barrior, but a moisture barrier, and wind barrier,

                    some what like gortex is to the clothing industy,

                    when tyvek came out they had a commercial on spraying it with water and it would repel water from a sorce, but when a steam kettel was put up to it the steam (vapor) would pass trhought it with ease, letting the vapor excape,

                    if all one was looking for in a house wrap was moisture and wind and vapor one would jsut wrap ones house with plastic sheet, the problem is it will not let the vapor pass trough and it will in time rot the building out from the inside out, as the moisture of living will become traped in the walls, OSB will discingrate to gray wood flakes in a short time,

                    the key to a good house wrap is to have some thing that will block the wind, block direct moisture and yet let the vapors pass through it.

                    15pound building felt was very good at this, but only in 3 foot wide widths, red rosin building paper was fair as it had good vapor pass througth and wind resistance, but again only 3 foot wide, and was not as water resistance,

                    then tyvek come down the road and it was in wide rolls and acomplished all the desires strong tear resistance, water restance wind restance and yet let vapor pass throught.

                    a vapor barrior is used on the inside of the house to keep vapor from passing throught into the walls, and migrating to the cold where it will condensate and rot the wall out from inside out,

                    http://www.energybooks.com/pdf/D1142.pdf
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                    • #11
                      Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

                      Dang it i put the house wrap on the outside of my OSB and covered it with metal

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                      • #12
                        Re: questions on sheathing, house wrap, siding

                        be sure if using pressure treated wood to replace your sillplate to use a double layer of sill gasket which always helps air penitration between the wood and concrete is it has any bumps or dips. It wouldnt be a bad idea to flash down with a drip edge to help keep water directly on your poured slab. if using aluminum to flash make sure you keep it off the PT wood or the PT will corode the flashing wrap the PT sill gasket with tar paper.

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