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Deck Fastening Systems - Which Do You Like

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  • Deck Fastening Systems - Which Do You Like

    I'm looking at replacing my deck soon and want to use a hidden fastening system rather than nails or screws through the face of the deck boards for obvious reasons. The current deck is after 20 years showing problems where the deck boards were face nailed. We've been here 18 years and the deck was built 2 years before we bought the place. It's constructed from 2x12 PT framing members with 2x6 fir deck boards which have been stained and I have maintained by resurfacing and staining every couple years.

    I want to go with 2x6 cedar deck boards and use a hidden fastening system. 2x6 cedar is a little more costly (2x6x16' is about $22) than what is there now but much less than composite decking (a 16 footer is about $45 here) and I have not found composite decking in 1.5" thickness and that would create some alignment issues at various points around the deck.

    In the photos from a couple years ago you can see the layout of the deck. I want to maintain the same pattern as it is visually pleasing (wife likes it) though I know it will make for more work and present some issues where the mitered ends of the boards meet as far as fastening them to the deck framing. The 4x4 legs on the benches pass through the deck and are bolted to the frame, so deck boards have to be cut around them but that is not a problem. One issue I have with the deck as it is now is there is little to no spacing between the boards, and I feel this has contributed to the failure of the deck boards because the deck is so low to the ground (second photo) and no gaps means there is no ventilation path for moisture to escape. In the second photo that section of the deck has the most ground clearance, as the deck runs to the right out of view it gets so close to the ground that the bottom of the 2x12s almost come in contact with the ground, not good but little I can do to change it.

    Anyway I have been reading about the CAMO system and also KREGs deck fastening system and am leaning toward the CAMO system. Has anyone used this system and what do you like/dislike about it. I like the CAMO system because you don't need anything other than the tool and the screws, no clips to install, no biscuit joiner, no drilling of pilot holes, and no grooved deck boards required.

    Also, is there anything better suited to my situation or materials. We get about 60 inches of rain here annually and temps range from mid teens to near zero occasionally in the winter and can reach over 100 at times with on average about 30 days over 90 in the summer.

    Since I don't see us being here more than 5 more years I can't justify the expense and extra work of installing a composite deck. I would think the cedar deck would have a 15 to 20 year life which is about how long the existing deck lasted. I could repair the existing deck by replacing about 20% of the boards now but that would probably mean I am doing repairs every year and 5 years from now I'll have replaced almost the whole deck so I figure just get it over with and do it all now. Beside, 5 years from now I might not be up to the task and then have to farm it out to someone else which would add to the cost. And with material costs going up every year I might as well buy it all now and put it in at my leisure. I plan to work one quadrant at a time. Will have to start in the center as I will be increasing the spacing and have to work out form the center due to the way the boards are laid out. Total deck area is about 800 sf.



    Last edited by Bob D.; 07-13-2016, 08:56 PM.
    "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006

    https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

    ----

    1/20/2017 - The Beginning of a new Error

  • #2
    I have never use it, so I can not suggest a method,
    Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
    attributed to Samuel Johnson
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

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    • #3
      Thanks BHD, but what do you think of this system compared to others?
      Have you built any decks or redecked any and if so how did you fasten
      the deck boards.

      http://www.decksdirect.com/deck-hard...dden-fasteners

      http://festoolownersgroup.com/home-i...you-like-best/
      "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006

      https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

      ----

      1/20/2017 - The Beginning of a new Error

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      • #4
        looks Camo like a good system, I am partial to Kreg products, (just have had good luck with them similar process), they make a Deck system as well,

        the bisket system always looked like a idea to me as well,

        I have never built a deck, have done a number of trailer floors, there you use a self taping screw if the metal is light if not one needs to tap them and I have always surfaced screw them. I really do not like the use of wood out side have had to many old fence boards rot away over the years, most farmers In our area, prefer concrete pad or decks, some times flag stoned if, decks are becoming more popular, tho, most would consider a wood "deck" entrance here as a temporary thing,
        Last edited by BHD; 07-14-2016, 03:16 PM.
        Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
        "The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
        attributed to Samuel Johnson
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
        PUBLIC NOTICE: Due to recent budget cuts, the rising cost of electricity, gas, and oil...plus the current state of the economy............the light at the end of the tunnel, has been turned off.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yeah, I like Kreg products too, and have a couple of their pocket hole jigs and other items.

          But the CAMO system seems to me like the least work or number of steps. I found the CAMO
          jig online from a couple sources in the 35-39 dollar range. Checked my local Lowes when I
          was in there today and they had it on the shelf but for $48 and change. I thought that's a little
          high but no shipping. But, I stopped in at HD just a half mile away and they have the same jig
          in stock for $37.99, plus they have the screws in stock which Lowes only had the smaller packs
          of 700 2-3/8" screws for $50/box. HD had the tub of 1750 2-3/8" screws for $98 which includes
          two Torx bits for driving the screws. That tub is estimated to cover 500 SF so I would need all of
          that and then some before its over.
          "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006

          https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

          ----

          1/20/2017 - The Beginning of a new Error

          Comment


          • #6
            I haven't done to much decking but after looking into it, I'd say the Camo system is best to get faster results since there is no pre drilling involved and its probably good enough for most decks in retrospect. The Kreg system offers more flexibility but it's also twice the work with the requisite pre drilling. Pre drilling the material no doubt will reduce tear out or splits and for this reason I like the Kreg system despite the added work. I have to admit the Camo system is definitely interesting and I'd love to see what the screws actually do to the wood at the point of entry.

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            • #7
              The quality of your material is going to be a major factor which ever system you choose. Moisture content and grain of the wood being used. Read the grain of your boards. Apply treatment before too much exposure to prevent cupping and warpage.
              Last edited by Tooltech6221; 03-20-2017, 06:20 AM.

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              • #8
                Will it wotk at the 45 mitered joints or will you have to free hand it? Thats where it needs to be the tightest.

                Rick.
                phoebe it is

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK View Post
                  Will it wotk at the 45 mitered joints or will you have to free hand it? Thats where it needs to be the tightest.

                  Rick.
                  Yeah, that's a concern I have too Rick. I can think of a couple ways to join the mitered ends together, either biscuits or dowels or dominos could be used. As far as fastening the mitered ends of the deck boards to the framing that's the big question which I plan to test shortly with some scrap 2x lumber. I want to see how close I can get to the end of a miter and not split the wood, and also how the tool might fit to guide the screw during installation. I'll post some photos here of the results.
                  "It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?" Bob D. 2006

                  https://www.youtube.com/user/PowerToolInstitute

                  ----

                  1/20/2017 - The Beginning of a new Error

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