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  • johncameron
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob D. View Post
    How did
    you secure the structure against upturning from high winds.
    The rim joists are lag screwed into the back two trees through slotted holes in the 2x6 to allow some movement but will prevent the structure from walking off the support beams.

    It creaks when the wind picks up as the platform rubs against the 2x10 planks under it.
    I was thinking of adding a strip of Teflon or polypropylene between the two surfaces to help with friction.

    One of the support trees is dead but seems solid enough. I debarked it to slow rotting and cut it off about 25ft from the ground to prevent deadfall from falling on roof.

    Click image for larger version

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  • Bob D.
    replied
    Looks good, I am sure the kids will enjoy it. What limits the lateral movement of
    the structure if the floor joists are floating on top of the 2x10 beams. How did
    you secure the structure against upturning from high winds.

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  • johncameron
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    Almost finished. Either side of tree are 2x10s. House is 6x13' with 2x6 floor joists which float on top of the 2x10 planks to allow for tree sway. The floor is about 12' off the ground.

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  • johncameron
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	741531 ​​​​​​My attachment points, 3/4 threaded rod through tree sleeved with black pipe for shear strength and torqued down nuts/washers on outside.

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  • VictorPoorman
    replied
    Wow! I would love to see the outcome of it. Also for the best suggestions and designs you can take help of the professionals from this site too. So, that you can get the alternates and shortcuts also for the unique build. All the best!
    Last edited by Bob D.; 10-05-2019, 01:03 PM.

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  • johncameron
    replied
    Thanks Rick, some good food for thought.

    I was thinking 1/2 black pipe. Emt will probably collapse when I tighten the nuts.
    The pipe only needs to go about 2in into tree to prevent the rod from bending where the threads are narrow. I like the tape idea. I might use it between rod and pipe sleeve.

    Riser clamps would be difficult to find the exact diameter for the tree. Besides, probably not strong enough for upwards of a ton of downward force.

    No overhead branches anywhere close enough to use cabling.

    No worries about growth rate of different trees because trees grow from the top. The trunks get thicker but my anchor spots will never vary in height.

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  • PLUMBER RICK
    replied
    I would.sleve the all thread with emt conduit. Doesn't add much to the hole. Or like.us plumbers, a wrap of 10 mil tape like we use on udergroud gas pipe.

    Look at all the weight that power poles support with much smaller bolts.

    You could also go with riser clamps and saddle around the tree. Or make your own saddles with a 4x12 half notched.

    I've done a lot of zip lining and they tend to use wraps around the trees. Not so much as through bolts. Are there larger limbs to support with straps from above?

    Not that I live in a Forrest, trees are pretty much self healing as long as you don't use copper for your attachment points.

    Now the question is, will all 4 trees grow at the same rate, or will you have to put leveling legs into your design. Don't want their pitcher of koolaid spilling.

    Rick.

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  • johncameron
    replied
    Not a bad idea, but I already have 3/4 gal threaded rod on hand. I'm thinking I just need to make a sleeve to go over the threads for strength and a boss to space it away from the tree.
    Then I'll have 2x10s on either side of the tree and the load will be shared evenly.

    12" would be too long. Largest of the trees is 14" dia the other 3 are about 10"
    I don't care if I kill the smaller trees, its just the 14" pine I'm concerned about.
    (Btw, the diameters are measured 10ft up from ground.)

    Thanks for your advice, I'll let you know how it goes next week.

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  • Bob D.
    replied
    3/4" x 12" SS Lags Screws can be found on McMaster-Carr and other places. Not cheap but less than the TABs.

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  • Mightyservant
    commented on 's reply
    I really don't have any idea about fasteners in live trees, 14" diameter I think would matter depending on the species and precedent. Might be safer for the tree to use a galvanized bolt or rod versus cadmium plated, it just a guess though.

    There are 3/4" lag bolts which could be driven from opposite sides.
    Last edited by Mightyservant; 04-20-2019, 11:13 AM.

  • johncameron
    replied
    Most mount designs I've seen use a huge bolt on one side of the tree. The load causes a prying down(angle) motion which seems to be why bolts need to be huge in diameter.

    If I use a 3/4 dia threaded rod all the way through the tree, I can put planks on both sides of the tree and devide the load in half.
    This should double the shear strength but I'm not sure a 14" tree can survive having a 3/4" hole drilled all the way through it.

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  • Bob D.
    replied
    Yeah they are pricey, but you could probably roll your own easily enough for a lot less and get the same affect.

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  • johncameron
    replied
    Yes, I have visited those sites already but they aren't much help to my situation.
    Like I said, I don't want to fork out upwards of $500 for their tab bolts.

    No worries about permits, I'm on 5 acres with no neighbors in sight.

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  • Bob D.
    replied
    https://www.treetopbuilders.net/pinned-treehouse-beam/

    https://greenarborists.com/treehouses-safe-trees/

    https://www.treetopbuilders.net/9-mi...ouse-building/

    https://www.treetopbuilders.net/fasteners/

    https://www.treehousesupplies.com/Tr...Bolts_s/41.htm

    As you can see there is loads of info out there. I found the above with only a few minutes of searching.

    Last edited by Bob D.; 04-19-2019, 01:47 PM.

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  • mbhydro
    replied
    You may want to check and see if you need permits before you start. At least once each year there seems to be an article in our newspaper about some city in Canada or the US that comes down hard on somebody who built a tree house after a HOA notices or some a neighbor calls it in.

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