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  • When camera won't keep going too many turns

    Any tricks to get it through,when You're far out?
    I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

  • #2
    Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

    run lots of water to help push it out. then you can camera and see on the pull back in with little to no water.

    rick.
    phoebe it is

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    • #3
      Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

      Rick, do you ever use skids with your seesnake mini. There are some on the market with wheels,pretty exy but. The usual plastic balls that Ridgid supply are more of a drag

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      • #4
        Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

        i use the ridgid mini balls whenever possible. they hep to protect the camera and allow the camera head to jump small offsets and keep the lens off the bottom and out of the sludge.

        of course it all depends on the access you have and the amount of roots in the line.

        yesterday i had a 4'' line with so many roots i needed to remove the skid ball on the mini to get through. today i'm jetting it.

        another one was an 1.5'' c/o into a 4'' main to 6'' lateral. no skid.

        rule of thumb, i always use them whenever possible.

        rick.
        phoebe it is

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        • #5
          Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

          Pull back a few feet and push through quick, helps with with small offsets and bends. Take care not to kink your cable.
          Buy cheap, buy twice.

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          • #6
            Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

            agree with rick re running water; thats step two, and about the best trick.

            step desperation is tape it to the jetter hose and use the nozzle to pull it.
            This is my reminder to myself that no good will ever come from discussing politics or religion with anyone, ever.

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            • #7
              Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

              Another thing to try if your cable is getting bit beat up is to use some armor all. Clean the cable then wipe it down with some armor all. wont make a huge difference but it will be noticeable. Also... I agree that pushing technique plays a huge role in how far you can get a cable out. Our cables perform best when you give short quick pushes when you need to break the friction. These aren't long running start type pushes. Just a short hard push enough to get the cable moving. Be careful not to kink the cable on the opening of the pipe by having too much outside of the opening between your hands and the access. Another important point. If the cable feels completely staled through reasonable efforts don't keep upping the force to try to get it to move another inch. better safe than sorry.

              Josh

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              • #8
                Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

                Originally posted by Josh View Post
                Another thing to try if your cable is getting bit beat up is to use some armor all. Clean the cable then wipe it down with some armor all. wont make a huge difference but it will be noticeable. Also... I agree that pushing technique plays a huge role in how far you can get a cable out. Our cables perform best when you give short quick pushes when you need to break the friction. These aren't long running start type pushes. Just a short hard push enough to get the cable moving. Be careful not to kink the cable on the opening of the pipe by having too much outside of the opening between your hands and the access. Another important point. If the cable feels completely staled through reasonable efforts don't keep upping the force to try to get it to move another inch. better safe than sorry.

                Josh
                Great info WELCOME BACK
                I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

                  Josh, I understand that everything and everyone has a limit. Down here though, we always want to put it to the test to see if we can get that little bit extra, so typical of plumbers here you see. I am not rubbishing Plumber Rick by any standard but I find that the Ridgid balls are a bit of a drag on the push camera. We have occasions where we cant use tractors so we have to try to push. The main problem is in stormwater drains which do have a fair amount of silt and rubble which I accept is a negative. As I said in an earlier post there are some skids with wheels but they also restrict with bends in the drain. When I get some time I am going to look further into skids but until then will just persevere. all jokes aside, I wish I had this camera Twenty Years ago but then again it wouldnt be as good as it is today. I actually impressed one of my Clients last Sunday. Dog's toy in 90mm stormwater drain, bit of a flat spot(because as all downunder here know 90mm is recycled c--p). Anyhow love this gear.

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                  • #10
                    Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

                    Its always a balance between # of turns and ability to push out long distances. As a general rule you can make it through about 540 degrees of turns before the camera starts stalling out. Adding in resistance of silt and rubble makes a big difference on increasing difficulty. A skid may help out some but friction on the cable is a big factor, especially when you are out a long distance. With silt you may be able to get out further by running water but then again you will not see as well since parts of the line will flood.

                    If you happen to be in a straight run without a lot of turns one good trick is to tie a trace rod to the camera. it will act to greatly stiffen up the push cable and allow you to go out quite a bit further.

                    Josh

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                    • #11
                      Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

                      pipe material has a lot to do with friction and pushing out. a plastic line is going to push out farther than a cast iron line of identical design. a smaller line will also push farther than a larger line.

                      i just purchased a spring carrier nozzle with camera attachment for my 1/2'' jetter hose. haven't tried it yet, but it's jetted at 18gpm 4000# with 6 rear 15 degree jets. the camera rides about 12-18'' past the jet so as long as the line is open, the camera should be able to see while jetting.

                      rick.
                      phoebe it is

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                      • #12
                        Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

                        I've also flushed shampoo down the tub for lubrication. Same applies to a snake stuck due to large root ball.

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                        • #13
                          Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

                          Long shot, but keep several sizes of those styrofoam balls from a craft store in your camera case. Bore a hole through them for your push cable/camera head. If simply flowing water won't do it try taping one of the balls to the camera and then run lots of water, the foam will float on the water and will lift the head off the bottom of the pipe. This serves the dual purpose of giving a bigger floating object for the flowing water to carry along and by lifting the head the drag from the camera head riding the bottom of the pipe is reduced. It won't work in nearly every situation but it's another thing to try.

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                          • #14
                            Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

                            Originally posted by SewerRat View Post
                            Long shot, but keep several sizes of those styrofoam balls from a craft store in your camera case. Bore a hole through them for your push cable/camera head. If simply flowing water won't do it try taping one of the balls to the camera and then run lots of water, the foam will float on the water and will lift the head off the bottom of the pipe. This serves the dual purpose of giving a bigger floating object for the flowing water to carry along and by lifting the head the drag from the camera head riding the bottom of the pipe is reduced. It won't work in nearly every situation but it's another thing to try.
                            That is simple brillance. Thank You !
                            I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

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                            • #15
                              Re: When camera won't keep going too many turns

                              With my Mini Sea Snake the best distance ever was 200' in 6" PVC with a large incline down to 20' below the roadway..lots of grunting and groaning to get there....to see rocks had entered the pipe from a puncture made by improper back filling material during replacement of the mains.

                              Under more normal conditions we generally max out around 90-100' depending upon the size and material composition of the pipe in straight runs through a good clean-out, and other mitigating and accompanying factors like roots, silt and number of bends. Our usual is 4" and 6" clay, both glazed (VC) and rough, in 12" and 18" sections.

                              We only use the Ridgid ball guide, especially after leaving a star guide behind in a line. I've tried a yellow wheeled guide purchased at the Pumper Show a few years back. Junked it after it got stuck in a PVC elbow the first time and reverted back to ball guide which is prime (with spring lock, not the newer push button lock design).

                              The ball guide spring clip also allows us to attach a kite string to it, via a fish hook swivel. With some luck we've had success in being able to bend the camera head to go up a hidden clean-out to the surface where we can locate it. Or, to find a crack hidden in the inside, separated joint of an elbow in which sewer flies were breeding below grade then flying into multiple apartments.

                              Haven't tried Armour All yet, but always carry a dollar store size of dish soap in the tool box and it regularly does wonders, although the resulting soap bubbles can obscure the camera view.

                              A good squirt or two, plus a few, large flow flushes upstream is usually successful to allow us to reach the main at about 120' or so, about 20-3' more than from the non-assisted limit. Low flows often need assistance in the volume of water by using a hose, filling up the bathtub, running the washer, etc.

                              Thus far the Sunlight brand appears to be superior, but am experimenting with Palmolive now.
                              The soap also helps clean out some of the grime in the pipe allowing for a better assessment, especially when a video recording is being taken...your mom always said wash your face before getting your picture taken. The same rule applies to pipes!

                              I am looking for a non-foaming solution though to overcome the foaming problem of the dish soap. Another chap who performs a lot of inspections uses windshield washer. I have yet to try that. Another possibility might be K-Y Jelly too...any thoughts there?

                              I'm most interested in what other members have found to be successful techniques, and those that are not as well. By sharing and learning we can all become better at our craft.

                              ...Dave
                              PipeTech Solutions Inc.
                              Sewer Inspection & Repair....without digging!!
                              Last edited by PTS; 06-23-2012, 12:01 AM.

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