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  • Hydro-Jetting consideration?

    Ok,
    So obviously I need some help and, thank god, found this forum. I have a slow main drain from the washing machine end of the house. The main line is at the other end of the house. Yes, the kitchen sink on the same end as the washer is slow as well. I have a brick rancher. I also have a septic tank. House is 30+ years old. Had it snaked out a year ago - $160.
    Yes, I know the main line needs replacing. I have help in that area, but I have to wait.

    I'm considering hydro jetting my main line from the roof - my roof is neither steep nor at great height. I already have a 3.0gpm, 2700psi pressure washer. I figured why pay a plumber again to auger when I can purchase the line and nozzle and hydro jet it myself?

    I'd like to consider myself a DIYer with a somewhat limited background in plumbing. Plus, I have a brand new family and I'm all about trying to save money. That's not to say that I'll tackle something as large as a main line replacement without proper help (and trying to adhere to code where applicable)

    So, now my questions:
    What type and size line would I need to purchase? And, does anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase it?

    What type of nozzle or nozzles should I purchase? (grease and food are probably the culprits to blame for my stoppage just at the sink drop-in to the main line)

    Should I work from the septic tank in toward the stoppage or the roof vent in toward the stoppage (and push everything toward the septic)?

    Should I be concerned with, and what type of steps to take to avoid, messing up the inside of the house (wife would be pretty upset with me if I shot grease and food back into the house. May lose my DIYer status quickly)?

    One more thing: My vent stack is probably a 1 1/2 inch line with a 3-inch main line.

    That's all that I can think of. I appreciate everyone's time who reads this and can offer any assistance. I'm just a regular joe who would really prefer to learn rather than pay someone else to do it for him.

  • #2
    Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

    sit tight for the evening, mrs seat down is calling for dinner. still need to shower

    i'll give you all the answers late tonight

    rick.
    phoebe it is

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

      Thank you very much Rick - I understand about the late night thing. Have a sick daughter on my end - probably be up half the night as well.

      Thanks again for your time...

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

        boy did i screw up.

        i did as i said and wrote back. problem is i fell asleep before i submitted it and it was lost dead laptop battery.

        so here goes again

        a jetter is a pressure washer with a a few bells and wistles. the main things are the hoses and nozzles. a pulsation valve on the pump head causes the pump to pulsate and this will allow the hose to vibrate as needed if the hose is not moving down stream. this is a feature that i seldom use. the right hose and nozzle is more critical than a pulsaton valve.

        since you have a smaller unit , 3gpm @2700 psi 6.5 h.p? you will need to purchase a smaller hose. ridgid makes an orange 1/4'' od hose and a rear propulsion nozzle. compare the specs to their model 2200 unit. the h-1475 hose 75' and h-61 nozzle will work fine. a foot valve will help controll the hose on /off and will help with jumping past the tuff bends. using the fv-1 foot valve like a pulsation works most of the time instead of a pulsation valve.

        as far as the location to jet from. jetting in a reverse direction, going upstream back into the stoppage is always more efficent. problem is that household plumbing is typically not designed or plumbed to do this. if you can great, chances are you will have to jet from the fixture to the main.

        if you can remove the laundry trap great. a jet hose will not get through a 2'' trap to easily. the roof vent is a great option if the vent is a s traight drop with no vent 90 fittings. a vent 90 is a very tight turn 90 and a jet hose will not get past it. this is my preferred method when there is no cleanout. just make sure as you jet, the waste water and jet water doesn't start to come up in the house, laundry, kitchen sink and overflow the jetter will add approx. 3 gallons a minute to the line, so try to jet once the water has gone down from overnight. jetting with water already in the line, a stoppage will create the overflow affect until you clear the line. it also absorbs some of the cutting power of the jet. that's why jetting from downstream to upstream is always better. but not typically practical in a home.

        cleaning is done as you pull the hose back out. the jetter will pull itself into the pipe as the pressure will squirt out of the nozzle. since this is a small nozzle with small jet holes, you need to keep the incoming water feeding your machine clean. a plugged jet hole will create poor jet performance. a welding tip cleaner ir used to kleen the jet nozzle. flush the line and pump prior to installing the nozzle. also when finished remove the nozzle and oil it. flush out all hoses and pump.

        very critical. the jet is capable of cutting through your skin/ hands. wear proper gloves and mark or paint the last few feet of your hose so you know when it's getting close to you as you pull it back out. go slow and you will do fine. also do your kitchen, since your 2 worts fixtures in the house are the kitchen and laundry. grease, food, lint, soap. the toilet is the cleanest


        get all your hose and connectors, adapters and try it in a short piece of pipe. you'll see the action of the jet. i don't like a jet nozzle with a forward jet on a small jetter. you lose too much pulling power. all rear jets will perform the best and will cut through a stoppage. it has the most pull. keep the nozzle clean and let it rip.

        ps the cost of these few items, 75' hose, nozzle and foot valve. is under $300. the foot valve being the costly item. you can use a high pressure ball valve 3000psi. to save some money, but it's not as good and you have to use your hands to operate it. the foot valve is the way to go

        hope i answerd your questions and didn't put you asleep


        off to see the tax man this morning

        rick.
        phoebe it is

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

          Thank you, thank you, thank you. THat was very specific, very useful information. Remember the sick daughter? She's at the hospital - not sure if she has noro or roto (no pun intended) virus. All we can do is wait it out. Hopefully she'll be better in the morning.

          One last, very dumb question. When you say upstream, you mean from the septic, into the house. Downstream would be, say, from the vent stack to the septic, right?

          Also, if the last roto rooter company was here and they used an electric auger through the vent stack, would it be a safe assumption the jetter would fit down the same vent stack??? (given the hose/nozzel sizes you quoted earlier).

          Once again, I appreciate you taking the time to walk me through it. Hope you still have something to put the seat down for upon return from the tax man

          Mike

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

            Originally posted by mikec1974 View Post
            Thank you, thank you, thank you. THat was very specific, very useful information. Remember the sick daughter? She's at the hospital - not sure if she has noro or roto (no pun intended) virus. All we can do is wait it out. Hopefully she'll be better in the morning.

            One last, very dumb question. When you say upstream, you mean from the septic, into the house. Downstream would be, say, from the vent stack to the septic, right? correct

            Also, if the last roto rooter company was here and they used an electric auger through the vent stack, would it be a safe assumption the jetter would fit down the same vent stack??? (given the hose/nozzel sizes you quoted earlier). probably. the snake is powered by the motor and it winds it way down. just like i have no problem with a cable going through a trap. a jetter is pulled in by the jet and there is no real way to push it along. sometimes using the foot pedal in very fast on off's will create a jumping affect. also rotating the hose will help with the nozzle getting around a bend or tight spot. but good chance that the jetter will get in if the snake did.

            Once again, I appreciate you taking the time to walk me through it. Hope you still have something to put the seat down for upon return from the tax man

            Mike
            accountant says i have a "marriage penalty"

            we'll see in the next couple of weeks if i can afford the dsl bill for this forum

            rick.

            the kids are more critical than the drain. concentrate on getting the sick daughter better. she can be the one to help you keep from making the mess in the house.
            phoebe it is

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

              This is just a thought if you end up starting up at the vent. How about using a sewer tape which has a spear on one end and a ball on the other. I'm thinking of the E-2727. They don't cost big $$$ and are very handy just to have around. While this will never clean like a jetter, it's light weight and you have far less chance of flooding your place. It's safer too.

              Home Depot near me used to have them in the plumbing department and if not, try Ferguson or Noland. I'm pretty sure they have them.

              http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Sewer-Tapes

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

                Thank you both, Plumber Rick and Woussko.
                Daughter is dehydrated and in a pissy mood (she's not quite 2) but other than that, looks like she may be home tomorrow. Thank you for your concern.

                Gotcha on all points. Have a spare piece of 2" PVC out back - around 10ft in length. Get to play with that first. I really appreciate all the help. I'll post back upon completion. We'll see. Where is it you guys live again? Anyone make house calls in case I get a jetter stuck? (j/k)

                Hope you guys have a great rest of the weekend!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

                  You may want to try E-Bay for your hose and nozzel. I got 1/4" from seller ID arthurbentley. I've used it 40 times and no problems yet. I dont think he dose nozzles but you can get them cheap on e-bay. I use a fixed nozzle with forward jet to get through and finish it with a good cleaning from the rotating nozzle. Forward jet will cut down on pulling action but works great on ice.
                  1/4" hose just over $1 a foot.
                  INSIGHT PIPE is now Maine Drain Serving most of ME with no charge for travel! 207-431-6232 is nolonger a working # our NEW # is 207-355-1476
                  Sewer main snaking (roto rooting). Sink clogs. Sewer backup. Pipe inspection/locating. No Dig trenchless repair. Root clog removal.We are NOT to replace your local Plumber, as we do not do plumbing. WE ARE YOUR DRAIN CLEANING EXPERTS!!! www.sewermaine.com waterville winslow bangor augusta skowhegan fairfield pittsfield oakland

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

                    Type "SEWER" for search and you should find what you need
                    INSIGHT PIPE is now Maine Drain Serving most of ME with no charge for travel! 207-431-6232 is nolonger a working # our NEW # is 207-355-1476
                    Sewer main snaking (roto rooting). Sink clogs. Sewer backup. Pipe inspection/locating. No Dig trenchless repair. Root clog removal.We are NOT to replace your local Plumber, as we do not do plumbing. WE ARE YOUR DRAIN CLEANING EXPERTS!!! www.sewermaine.com waterville winslow bangor augusta skowhegan fairfield pittsfield oakland

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

                      Thanks Gene - Rigid is tough to get in this area - found 2 companies that can get I can get it from (one was home depot).
                      Also, the cheapest prices I could find were as follows:
                      Hose - 187.77 nozzle - 34.00 footvalve - 159.29 (that's $381!) Plus, they have to be ordered and I have to pay for shipping and taxes.

                      Long and short - @ $381 plus, it may be less time consuming and less financially to have a rooter service come in and do it. Not sure yet.

                      Will probably follow your advice and look on ebay first before making a decision.
                      THank you again...at the minimum, I'm now more informed.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

                        Ok, so I am now the proud owner of a 100' of 1/4 line and one (1) nozzle (6 drilled backwards and 3 drilled forward) as well as a foot valve. Never been prouder
                        Onto my ongoing issues:
                        Going in from the septic, I get 15 to 18 feet in and I can't go any further. I'm hitting a stoppage and I assume it's the T where the main line turns right heading toward the other end of the house (kitchen end). I tried "jumping" the jetter and that didn't work. I tried turning the hose, that didn't work either.
                        My next thing (I guess) is to see if there's a cleanout on that T and open 'er up. With the hose in, I can see if that's where I'm getting stopped.

                        Thoughts on my, at times, very smelly situation?

                        I appreciate everyone's time.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Hydro-Jetting consideration?

                          are you trying to run the jetter hose from the septic back up towards the house

                          if you are, then you can only go as far as the first tee or wye. sewers were not meant to be cleaned in a reverse direction. the fittings are directional fittings.

                          when i camera a line with a reverse cleanout, i will figure out the max distance i can clean or jet upstream.

                          this is probably your issue. just jet from the kitchen towards the septic and you'll be in business

                          if you need more pull, get a nozzle without any forward jets.

                          rick.
                          phoebe it is

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