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  • K-39AF Problem

    Well I didn't think my first post on my new k-39 would be about it not working. I've done 3 small jobs with it, worked great. On 4th job change out lav faucett, drain very slow, get out the k-39 NOTHING! drum won't turn. gfi is ok ,power in the cord, Nothing. Get it home and take a look at it when I'm not p.o. Still nothing. Check gfi again, still got power in the cord to the drill motor, operate forward/reverse switch make sure its not centered nothing. Toss it with aggravation on the bench, pick up to put away, Its WORKING! Mess with it a bit keeps on ticking, great its magically fixed On job today fire it up makes a few turns and quits Take to McKinneys for repairs, its working again! They open it up can't find anything wrong. Not impressed with what I saw when they opened it, what can I say it looked cheap. looking at the label on the tool and see that its 1.1 amps seems a little light to me. Anyway stopped at McFadden- Dale hardware and picked up some repair parts, when it fails on the job again I'll make some simple alterations so I can use my 15 year old Milwaulkie driill to power it. I'll still send in the rigid power unit for replacement and when I get it back after a month I'll try selling it on ebay. I love the unit. The drill motor part unfortunately confirms my fears of rigid power tools. I know s**t happens just expected a little more. I have a 600 power threader a real workhorse I guess the two are made by different folks.

    wookie

  • #2
    Re: K-39AF Problem

    I've recently purchased a K-39AF also and the verdict is still out.

    I don't like the exterior drum mount (the 4 screws). They made mine where you don't have to take the screw all the way out to dismantle. But that leaves 4 open holes in the exterior drum. Today, the inner seal leaked OR I got some galvenized butter in one of the holes during operation and got the black water sling going. Just should have left it sealed in my opinion without the holes for quick removal. If I'm loosening screws I would soon have to take them out all the way to prevent this from happening.

    The drill doesn't feel of say, Milwaukee Hole Shooter, quality. But mine hasn't malfunctioned either. Only used twice though.

    I like and don't like the composite drum. Won't rust or crack (according to Ridgid) but the texture or porosity makes it instantly dirty on the exterior and need cleaning. I like keeping things presentable.

    J.C.

    AutoFeed been working good so far.

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    • #3
      Re: K-39AF Problem

      "I would just as soon take the screws all the way out rather than just loosening them. That would keep the outer drum sealed." That's the point I think I was trying to get across.

      The Forum is not letting me Edit my post for some reason.

      J.C.

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      • #4
        Re: K-39AF Problem

        i too thought that a 1.1 amp motor was small, until i used it. funny as it has plenty of power and torque for the job it was intended to do. remember that emerson electric is the parent co. of ridgid. they are in the motor business.

        make sure that if you need to put in in reverse, do it once the machine has stopped rotating. not just with your finger off the trigger.

        the drum has a nice feature with the 4 screws. it allows you to remove it without unscrewing them all the way. the issue i've found is that if you're running the machine drum anywhere near your wrist you can get a nice little bite from the 4 cutouts.

        it's a very wise idea to never store your cables in the drum. as you can see, the water from the cable will stay in the drum and continue to rust the cable. it only takes seconds to remove the cable and 30 seconds to install it again. my cables last a long time this way. also pulling them back dry will keep the drum from collecting water and needing to remove the drum to dry out.

        i do like this little machine and i don't use the slide chuck. i think they are doing away with the slide chuck and this will shorten the front length a couple of inches. i never did like the slide chuck.

        sorry, can't help you with the false starts.

        rick.
        phoebe it is

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        • #5
          Re: K-39AF Problem

          My hilti had the same problem and it was traced to the power plug. The solder connection was bad but if it moved just right and the stars were aligned with the moon, it worked great.
          Buy cheap, buy twice.

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          • #6
            Re: K-39AF Problem

            SEE TOOL ,ALWAYS GO WITH YOUR GUTS. tanks Kevin
            I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

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            • #7
              Re: K-39AF Problem

              I bought the k-39 based on discussions I read here. Not being a drain guy, I depend on the great info found here. Really do like the machine and have also been bitten by the spinning screws I like the removable drum cover and will be taking out the cable as suggested to dry and lube.

              When the drill case was opened at McKinney the connections were'nt soldered they were those push together blade thingamagegers. I'm sure the problem is in the trigger mechanism. McKinney did'nt have a replacement, said it would have to go to Ohio

              For the record McKinneys were helpful but problem would'nt present itself for they're observation.

              wookie

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              • #8
                Re: K-39AF Problem

                Wow,My super vee has 2.7 amps,more than twice the power
                Last edited by toolaholic; 07-24-2008, 01:59 PM. Reason: change
                I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

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                • #9
                  Re: K-39AF Problem

                  Verdict still out on my total opinion. But I don't think the K-39 needs much power. Seems the real pull is the startup. Then the inertia of the drum takes over & relieves much of the power drain.

                  It has the speed. But is alot of amp-torque necessary behind this small cable?

                  J.C.

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                  • #10
                    Re: K-39AF Problem

                    It has more than enough power imo. I only run it at half speed usually, full-speed is too much for a small drain in my experience.
                    Water Heater Reviews & Water Heater Information

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                    • #11
                      Re: K-39AF Problem

                      to much power and to fast of speed = bent to crap cable`s

                      You dont need much of either to clean 1 1/2 and 2" lines
                      http://www.all-clear-sewer.com/

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                      • #12
                        Re: K-39AF Problem

                        YEAA ,You betcha , Maybe the k- 39 needs a hand crank , that 'll fix it !
                        I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .

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                        • #13
                          Re: K-39AF Problem

                          Don't get me started on the K-39af
                          I'm like the Rick of K39's lol
                          Seattle Drain Service

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                          • #14
                            Re: K-39AF Problem

                            Originally posted by toolaholic View Post
                            YEAA ,You betcha , Maybe the k- 39 needs a hand crank , that 'll fix it !
                            Maybe it needs a blown top fuel motor on the back side
                            http://www.all-clear-sewer.com/

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: K-39AF Problem

                              I've never had a problem with my spartan 81, ever. (7 years) and I treat it like my body.....


                              rough.
                              Northern Kentucky Plumbers Twitter Feed | Plumbing Videos

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