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Ridgid Drain Cleaning Class?

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  • #16
    Re: Ridgid Drain Cleaning Class?

    So what do you say, Renee?

    For those that come to the Roundup early can we get a class together?

    We'll be looking to kill some time on Tues.

    If you don't want us hanging around, I'll understand


    • #17
      Re: Ridgid Drain Cleaning Class?

      Okay, found it.

      This is where this class would "inform" me on the ins and outs of this and how this differs from a statement a month ago about how clean do you really need to get a line open when asked to clear a drain.

      I get a call for a condo with a toilet backing up. I tell him I'll be out in an hour and I show up 2 hours later. He called property management and they wouldn't reply so here I come to save the day!

      When I get there, he said that his neighbor's toilet was backed up too, but his sink was running fine and what not, everything else in the property was running with the exception of a floor drain that was backing up and flooding the entire kitchen area. Rough condo association and rough living, didn't like being there at all.

      Since "now" I knew that the property management's plumber is coming, I went ahead and ran a closet auger 6' and pulled back nothing, called it my attempt to clear the obstruction and call it a day with $85 in hand and off I go....because this job is more entailed than the condo owner first mentioned and now it involved the plumbing of two units.

      Since they never called this property owner back, I knew the charge was justified as they was coordinating with his neighbor and not him. ??? Anyway, it gave the plumber that arrived a focus point of what to do next.

      So the plumber arrives, I personally know him as we're both licensed backflow guys, both Master Plumbers. He told the property owner he needed to make a decision what he wanted to do, whether to have me finish the task or let them take care of it.

      I instantly told him that I'll give a reduced rate *$85* for my time on attempting to clear the drain by closet auger and told him that this was his territory and to go ahead and take care of the problem as property management expected him to do. I feel he respected my move greatly for this and I in turn was following standard protocol when a 3rd party has delayed the response of a situation that needs attention.

      Here's why I posted this here:

      Guy walks towards the house with a K-50 in his hands, and I'm thinking, this guy is a hardcore Drum/Spartan owner. WTH???!!!

      Anyway, he's got the K-50 and maybe 4 sections of what looks like 3/8" or slightly larger cable. I'm assuming he went down a floor drain but when I spoke to the property owner later this evening, he said he went down through the toilet without pulling it and had to add 3 more sections to finally hit the clog and break it free.

      Now here's my questions and statements to Renee or anyone that isn't heavily opinionated on the use of sectionals in this fashion when removing an obstruction via toilet trap:

      First of all, running a cable any length of distance through the trap of a toilet has to reduce the strength of the attachment by losing so much torque because the cable is getting sent 4-5 directions instantly in such a short small path, right?

      With having that cable touching/grinding against porcelain inside the toilet, isn't that a possibility for damage to that same toilet? Stress cracks because of the vibration and how many places that cable is hitting?

      We all know that cable is small enough to get through the toilet, along with the sized minimum it took to get through the toilet's horn. IF that sectional cable is that flexible, how can that possibly not have dangers travelling through a 3 or 4" line knowing that the flexibility of that cable could instantly double back knowing the cable's size? Meaning that hitting a hard obstruction with that small a cable and turning back at you. It can happen, I've been in that boat myself with the Ridgid-Kollman sectional I used with misaligned piping.

      But I thought that was slick to go through the toilet without removing it, but then again I think about IF that vibration or if the mfg. would be aware of that application to clear a drain, is it a good one?

      I'm all for doing anything to keep from pulling a toilet, especially a nasty one and what discoveries may lie in that motion, but when I think about what transpired tonight with that method of clearing the obstruction,

      did the drain get thoroughly clean even though there's flow through right now? I can't run my 100 drum through a 3/4" line because the cable is too small and cannot aggressively do a full scope of the drain. On 1.5" or 2" it does the job well; the larger pipe it's throwing a hotdog down the hallway.
      Doesn't matter if I bend the cable a couple feet back or's not doing a full aggressive clean.

      This is where I was thinking if given the size of the K-50 on the above described this a normal way to do this type of clearing? I'm not pointing fingers saying it was wrong, just wanting to know if this is considered an ordinary practice without causing secondary problems to the system, or considering the cable's size against the size of the drain, if it fully functions to meet expectations of the problem. Inquiring minds want to know.

      He was carrying it one-handed and I liked that value, but I've been taught to never cable through a toilet with any cable whenever possible, given the removal of porcelain in fully glazed trapways or possibly causing scratches where they're visible. The cable is heavily compromised through the trap in its effectiveness, the same way we are told to hit a cleanout instead of a floor drain given the torque it limits by hard turning the cable, sectional or tight wound.

      I think I got what I wanted to say out in print.
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      • #18
        Re: Ridgid Drain Cleaning Class?

        All I know is what You pros have taught Me and some of My own experience.
        3/8" too small for 3 and 4". No respect for others property by running that snake in the toilet. Why do I think He'd leave a broken snake for someone else to retrieve ?
        Work hack comes to mind
        I can build anything You want , if you draw a picture of it , on the back of a big enough check .


        • #19
          Re: Ridgid Drain Cleaning Class?

          dunbar, i just spent over an hour looking for my post on snaking through a toilet with the k-50. i know i have pictures, but i'm not home.

          the toilet was full and it was upstairs carpeted bathroom. i knew it was baby wipes. i inserted my 5/8'' sectional with bulb auger to run 4- 7.5' sections to clear the line of baby wipes.

          i'll have to find the photos.

          no scratches or dirt. just a hard time removing all the wipes from the toilet and trap.

          phoebe it is


          • #20
            Re: Ridgid Drain Cleaning Class?

            I would like to make a toilet auger in a sectional for when I know the blockage is in the house and only a couple feet from my general toilet auger- Soft blockage I'm talking about--. If a bathroom group is backed up In a home I will run my 3/8 cable through the lav drain to clear it instead of pulling the toilet. I am affraid of hooking on to a pair of underware and not being able to pull them through 1.5''. Oh that will be a bad day.

            I do use my 3/8 to clear 3 inch indoor blockages.

            I would like to auger through a toilet, but I think a hand auger would be fine for soft blockages.


            • #21
              Re: Ridgid Drain Cleaning Class?

              marco makes a closet auger that is sectional. problem is, who wants to assemble 3' sections inside a toilet

              the 7.5' sections on a k-50 are done in the dry, clean outside the toilet.

              phoebe it is


              • #22
                Re: Ridgid Drain Cleaning Class?

                My cordless closet auger would be bitchen if it was a sectional.
                Hummmm I think thats my next cordless tool to make