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cut the cable off clean (I find a cut off on a small grinder works well), pull a little of the inner core out a little and cut it off so it is a tad shorter, and let it back in, screw in the coupler end, and spot weld it.
Push sticks/blocks Save Fingers
"The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."
attributed to Samuel Johnson
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The whole point of innercore is that they kink less, and break less since they can handle more torque. So you end up having less repairs to do.
I worked with inner core cables for two years, and found that they flipped, kinked, snapped just like the hollow core cables.
I also found that they're not as easy to fix when the inevitable happens.
Whether they last longer or not is irrelevant.
Let's say I get called to an emergency at a restaurant that is depending on me to unstop the bathrooms before they have to close and lose 10's of thousands of dollars on a Saturday night, but wait I need to go to my shop and tach weld this end on, or worse, bring it to the repair center on Monday morning.
With hollow core, I can have the cable fixed in 5 minutes.
I already keep extra reels of hollow core cable on my truck for extra long runs. (up to 300ft)
If I used inner core, a back up reel would be mandatory, IMO.
I have a 3/4 inner core cable that snapped on my K-750.
About 8 ft snapped off .Is there any way to put the head coupling back on.
So much for innercore not breaking.
I'm with you Herbert. Standard cable is a snap to splice. No welding necessary. Even though my cable comes from the manufacturer with ends welded on, I've never experienced the need to do so when it comes time to replace first 50'. Then again, I rarely kink or break my cables nowadays anyhow. When I was rookie, I went through cables, ends and splices like they were going out of style.