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You mean there is no pressure indicator on there now?
Liquid filled gauge with pulsation dampener ought to do it.
Gauge range should be twice the expected output of the
pump if you want it to last any amount of time.
"When we build let us think we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work that our descendants will thank us for, and let us think, as we lay stone upon stone, that a time is to come when these stones will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, "See! This our fathers did for us."
John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
well you can put a guage on the head of the pump for the pump psi. Or if you want to test your actual psi at the end of hose just put a tee at the hose end place the tip in the 9 o clock spot and a gauge in the 12 o clock spot, place in a scrap section of 3-4" tubing, with a bucket and go! If you want to know GPM then mark the bucket in 1 gallon lines and time for 1 minute.
Thanks. So if it starts at say 3000psi how much should it drop once it gets going?
Depends on your set up, some bypass to a tank and go up when trigger is squeezed , others go up 500lbs then drop to the specified output when the trigger is used. The first thing you should do is look at your tip and read what it says, the biggest mistake I see on P/W is someone with a worn out tip or just plain the wrong tip start adjusting there unloader or RPM's whith a bad or wrong tip. If you have a 3000 psi 4 GPM system and are using a 40 degree tip the number would be 4004 if using at 15 degree tip it would read 1504 .
Start with a new tip that is the correct size and then and only then make adjustments.
One of the simple ways to get a guage going is just get a tee, place quick disconnects on each end and a guage in the center and place it when needed on the P/W outlet fitting then place your hose on and test. Guages should also be new or known good a old gauge can give false wrong readings also.