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wow pipe doc sorry u had so manny problems wit ur K-60 as since I lost my K-7500 a few months ago when my truck was broke into and i cant aford a nother machine thankfully they left my K-60 cause i have been useing the heck out of it
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15261[/ATTACH] this is the part . I have bin using my 3/8 duracable till the new part shows up. It shipped today.
sorry to hear about your stolen tools. steeling the way a man feeds his family ,a hanging offense!
I would still like to know how it was determined something was wrong with that part...and what was wrong with it as well...
Poor Planning On Your Part Does Not Constitute An Emergency On My Part!! You can fire me...but you can't tell me what to do! Derek
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15240[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]15237[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]15238[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]15239[/ATTACH]I think i figured out my problem! the idler cone & bearing are not centered in the housing.causing the clutch bracket to hit the housing under load.the spacing between the bearing and housing lower right is about3/16 and upper left is 0 . one can see the marks in the pics.
got my part today ,all back together ( a very easy to work on) ready to work . I have a 2" cast F D in a boiler room has plastic caps wire ETC... I got it to drain w/ the 3/8 but couldnt get through .so sent the micro drain down and found all the junk. it is so nice to know what you are dealing with. i thought i might start w/ a t-101 see what i can pull back?
Just a follow-up, guys.
The front housing is a cast piece. the mold is two pieces. When the two pieces come together, there is always some slight misalignment between the two. Usually it is so small you don't notice it.
In this particular case, there was enough misalignment that it allowed the triangular spring on the clutch jaw to rub against the inside of the housing and get misaligned. This increased the torque and caused things to bind.
Pipe Doc, thank you for being so patient and understanding. When end users like you take the time to help us figure out not just which part has an issue but what the issue is and why it happened, everybody is better off.
Now that we understand the issue, our plant can work with the casting supplier and try to prevent this from happening again.
I would like to see a video of a sludged up K-sink line being cleaned from inside with the K-60 by taking the trap off. If you can or anyone else maybe could post a link to it. In a real home. I think it would be informative.
I'll tell you what I learned after I tried out a K50 with 5/8" open wound;
That open wound cable knocks sludge in the arse, often in one pass. There isn't all the working of a 3/8 or 13/32 cable in and out to break up sludge, run that 5/8 in let it spin and feed it a little water and presto. Run some water on the spinning cable and it cleans up very easily. It great for high rise units with long sludgy fountain and coffee sink lines too.
I ran a Spartan 100 with 13/32 for 20 years, I scoffed at open wound, for the reasons your siting, then I tried one just for the heck of it and I'm sold.
I'm sold on it for sludgy sinks more than I am for sewers.
I dont care if you get dirty,its all about the customer.
option......push a cable back into a sealed drum......or option 2 drag it out the azz end of a machine in 10' pieces and haul it out. DUH.
I don't own drum machines because I feel they are not as versatile as a sectional.I use em' indoors and outdoors , on roofs, etc.etc.etc..All day long..Sure it gets messy sometimes but I feel they do a better job..So you're right it's all about the customer
''Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" Benjamin Franklin