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  • #16
    Hi Bob. I repair using a car fibreglass repair kit (might try carbon fibre sometime).

    I place the kinked cable between two vices about 6" apart. I don't try straighten the cable as this may only damage the copper inside & having a slight kink still allows it to wind back on the reel & allow it to still negotiate most small pipes.

    I give the smooth cable a very brief sand about 1/2" either side of the kink with fine sandpaper. I then cut a few 1/4" strips from the woven fibreglass cloth & mix up a small batch of the epoxy/resin. I then use a small artist brush to apply a little of the mix over the kink 1/2" either side. Lay the start of a 1/4" cut strip just out of the applied epoxy holding down with a finger (don't start holding it in the epoxy as it can slip & get messy).

    With a little firmness begin wrapping the strip at a 30 - 45 degree angle over the cable & kink to 1/2" over the other side & cut the strip - don't worry about leaving a dry (un epoxy'd end) as you will sand it once all is said & done.

    Apply further epoxy as required & repeat from the other direction at the opposite angle 30 - 45 degree angle & cut - do this 3 - 4 times & let dry completely 24 hours & sand off smooth.

    Check you're happy with the fibreglass & the kinked section is firmly held by it. If not you may need to do a couple of more wraps.

    Just remember this is not as good as new, but hopefully will buy you fifty to a few hundred more uses - just don't expect it to run through 1-1/4" pipe as easily.
    Last edited by DATS; 07-26-2014, 02:52 AM.

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    • #17
      Got to say DATS for a KIWI you brother have balls. I have been lucky with my mini that I haven't damaged it. Don't know whether I would do as you do.

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      • #18
        Not what the timeframes are for repairs in Aussie, but over here if you break something it usually has to go back to the Aussie or the States. My Scout locator stopped working a couple years back. I gave it to Ridgid the end of November & only got it back March of the following year - it was a simple blown fuse.

        I called SeeTech in California & they said worst case scenario for a unit that can be repaired is 4 days at their factory & so not sure why Ridgid had to have it for over 3 months.

        The only guy in my area who re-terminates (cuts & shortens) behind the kinked sections knows what he's doing (not Ridgid trained) but had returned a couple of poorly soldered re-terminated cables & I thought bugger this one afternoon & had a crack at it myself - I was nervous at first, but it was surprisingly not that bad.

        When it comes to a kinked cable you basically have two choices - cut your cable back & re-terminate or try support the kink so you get as much time out of your cable before either cutting back or replacing it.

        I've got to wrap a kink on my 30m (100') Micro Reel - maybe I'll video it & post it to Youtube.
        Last edited by DATS; 07-26-2014, 04:44 PM.

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