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Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

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  • Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

    I put an unloader on my 4014 4000 psi, 14 gpm jetter. When I use my micro and mini jet hose I get my 4,000 psi and I can adjust as needed. But as I have been doing my research I see a bypass is recommended. Why? I see my unloader putting water back into the tank through the "bypass hose"

    Also not sure what bypass to get and where to get it. Not sure if my unloader is set right either, but when I turned it on I had nothing but 900 psi until I cranked the spring down, figured I was going the right direction when the pressure raised, lol.
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  • #2
    Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

    Well I don't have one so I guess I should just say I don't know and be quiet.

    But I'll ask/comment anyway. I don't know if you do need one as the unloader is the pressure safety and recycler through the pump. I guess you could have one in case the unloader failed or one for thermal protection if you will have it unloading for several minutes. Things get heated up with pressure and movement. Heat=wear and premature problems.

    I'm thinking a backup pressure relief or a thermal pressure relief as another safety "bypass" as a backup to the unloader bypass. Right? Wrong? Crazy?

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    • #3
      Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

      Sounds like you got it...

      The bypass allows the pump to actually circulate water through the pump so it does not heat up right?

      Yup, More pressure on the spring the more pressure you get like a gas regulator:-)

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      • #4
        Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

        here's the issue. you have a large pump at 14 gpm and a small hose and nozzle that will only let out a few gpm with a great pressure loss.

        the bypass allows the pump to run the water through it and still dump it back into the holding tank. while an unloader will technically do that, it does create a large demand for the unloader to bypass that kind of water.

        the bypass is nothing more than a tee piped in the outlet manifold after the unloader and you dial it in to bypass water and still maintain water volume and pressure.

        remember lowering the rpm on the engine is not a good idea to a point. the engine is most likely a diesel air cooled. lower rpm, means lower cooling air flow.

        i use a combination of a diesel tachometer to optimize the rpm's torque and cooling, then i bypass when running lower flow nozzles. usually anything under 10 gpm nozzles/ 3/8'' hose, i will open the bypass and still maintain rpm's flow and cooling. the bypass just is a high pressure needle valve piped back to the tank.

        rick.
        phoebe it is

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        • #5
          Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

          Thanks for all the replys. So the bypass valve is plumbed between the bypass outlet on the unloader and the tank? It slows the water down through the unloader?

          I use the high pressure ball valve on my mini reel to control my flow rate, I have a pressure guage installed on my reel.
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          • #6
            Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

            Originally posted by BizzyBeePlumbing,Inc. View Post
            Thanks for all the replys. So the bypass valve is plumbed between the bypass outlet on the unloader and the tank? It slows the water down through the unloader?

            I use the high pressure ball valve on my mini reel to control my flow rate, I have a pressure guage installed on my reel.
            no. the bypass is plumbed after your main water shut off valve. it acts as an excess flow bleed off. the purpose is to bypass the excess water that can't get through the smaller size hoses and nozzles. a 14 gpm pump will put out 14 gpm at full rated rpm's. when you're running the smaller hoses and nozzles, you are down to 2-6 gpm. so the engine either needs to be run at lower rpm's which is hard on the engine and generates less cooling from less rpm's. to compensate you open the bypass to allow more water flow through the pump raising the rpm's and take the excess flow from the bypass back to the tank.

            an unloader will accomplish the similar result, but at great wear and tear on the unloader.

            some machines don't use unloaders and rely on burst disc or relief valves. a bypass is an important component when there's no unloader. with an unloader a bypass is an inexpensive component to help cut down on the wear of the unloader and a simple way to fine tune discharge pressure. think of it as an adjustable nozzle. gives you the ability to go from full pressure to lower pressure in the turn of the bypass needle valve.

            bypass valve is $15.00 and little wear and tear. unloader valve is $100-150.00 and greater wear and tear.

            bypass valve saves you money and the wear on your unloader. plus it allows for precise discharge pressure adjustment.

            did the machine come with any excess pressure protection. / relief valve or burst disc.

            rick.
            phoebe it is

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            • #7
              Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

              Originally posted by PLUMBER RICK View Post
              no. the bypass is plumbed after your main water shut off valve. it acts as an excess flow bleed off. the purpose is to bypass the excess water that can't get through the smaller size hoses and nozzles. a 14 gpm pump will put out 14 gpm at full rated rpm's. when you're running the smaller hoses and nozzles, you are down to 2-6 gpm. so the engine either needs to be run at lower rpm's which is hard on the engine and generates less cooling from less rpm's. to compensate you open the bypass to allow more water flow through the pump raising the rpm's and take the excess flow from the bypass back to the tank.

              an unloader will accomplish the similar result, but at great wear and tear on the unloader.

              some machines don't use unloaders and rely on burst disc or relief valves. a bypass is an important component when there's no unloader. with an unloader a bypass is an inexpensive component to help cut down on the wear of the unloader and a simple way to fine tune discharge pressure. think of it as an adjustable nozzle. gives you the ability to go from full pressure to lower pressure in the turn of the bypass needle valve.

              bypass valve is $15.00 and little wear and tear. unloader valve is $100-150.00 and greater wear and tear.

              bypass valve saves you money and the wear on your unloader. plus it allows for precise discharge pressure adjustment.

              did the machine come with any excess pressure protection. / relief valve or burst disc.

              rick.

              Yes, it came with a blow out disk. Its a us jet setup. So then the bypass is plumbed on the lever that has the selection return to tank or high pressure selection. My unloader was 300$ from us jet! lol. Great customer service but a little steep on prices. I cannot find install directions on the bypass but when the us jet people were here they said I didn't need a bypass because I remember them having one on the truck. They did not have an unloader but showed me how to install it. Now only problem is installing it myself. as I am clueless!
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              • #8
                Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

                the us jetter is pretty standard with a bypass. is this an older refurbished unit or is it a harben style / radial piston diaphragm pump? 4014 is an older unit with their plunger pumps. their website should have some decent photos of the bypass install. otherwise i would be able to take some next week at the shop.

                post a photo of your control panel and the selector/ water control valve and manifold. should be easy to walk you through it.

                your 3 way selector valve should have a manifold block on the inlet side that also has the pressure transducer and pressure gauge hose attached to it. the bypass is just another connection on that manifold and it is probably already has a cap on the extra ports.

                rick.
                phoebe it is

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

                  I am going to go to the yard and take some pictures later. Its not refurbished, but is an 98' unit with 680 hours on it. I am finding the previous owners molested it big time but its in great condition, on the other hand I am slowly fixing things that they did. They messed with wiring and put in extra fittings on the drain which I fixed. Great starter unit for me as I have absolutely no jetter business but have had it out twice since I got it, which is pretty good for 30 or so days. Works great! does a better faster job then my cart.

                  I remember when I ran a 2006 4018 for another company, there was a knob on the back I used to turn when I ran the smaller hose kits, I just remembered this and think this is the bypass. I also have a jump jet, but know that's not it. I did have a valve in the front by the pump that is now disconnected when I hooked my unloader up. Us Jet said I no longer need it either. I have yet to remove it from the frame as instructed though just in case its needed in some way. It is no longer plumbed into the system, but is wired in, which I was told I can just disconnect. I will eventually.

                  As for the pump, it is not a radial piston, its a plunger style. My biggest issue is not having a local us jet service guy here, or anyone for that matter that has experience with trailer jetters.
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                  • #10
                    Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

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                    So I just looked at my buddies 4018 and it looks like he has a valve coming off the 3 way valve and then another valve, then it is piped with an unloader. Does not look to terribly bad as far as pipe work, my hoses are all new and if you do not look at all the hydralic lines, the actual pressure part is pretty simple.

                    I am calling us jet tomorrow and will order the bypass and probably that other valve. I will post pictures!!!

                    Oh, and the old rusty thing with 3 wires coming out of it, not sure what it is but it is not being used. Thats what I was told I could remove from the unit since it is no longer used now that I have my unloader.

                    On the valve that connects to the 3 way on my buddies 4018, it has us jet J-004-200, looks like it connects the guage, pump, capped spot, bypass, but whats the "T" connect to and where does that bypass hose run too? Back to the tank? I have 2 rear hoses that connect to the tank and 2 up front, one that runs from the 3 way and dumps back to the tank I think and one that runs from my unloader to the tank. I did not trace the rear 2 hoses. I also see that I may not get that larger valve that is connected to the bypass in there becuase my hose that runs to the pump is shorter, so maybe us jet will send me a longer hose. Unless there is an easier way to do it, the right way of course......



                    Thanks!!
                    Last edited by BizzyBeePlumbing,Inc.; 11-04-2012, 03:23 PM.
                    Plumber Raleigh,Plumber Cary,Plumber Apex ,Plumber Apex, Plumber Morrisville,Plumber Durham, ,Plumber Holly Springs,Plumber Chapel Hill,Sump Pump Raleigh

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                    • #11
                      Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

                      4018 with bypass
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                      • #12
                        Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

                        robert, this is the current setup on the newer units. basically the top left is the mechanical gauge connection. the top right is the sending unit/ transducer for the electronic readout gauge and the bottom right is the bypass valve connection. this is all connected to the high pressure in prior to the on,/ bypass off selector valve.



                        on your current unit, you don't have the manifold tee, just a hydraulic high pressure "jic" fitting/ tee for the pressure gauge. very easy to get another hydraulic tee and stack it on the gauge port. add the bypass tee and pipe it back into the clear braided hose for the dump.

                        it looks like that old setup on the first photo is either a hydraulic/ water motor that might turn a generator. not sure as it out dates any units i've owned.

                        the 4014 can be converted to a 4018 by swapping out the pulley and belt assembly. turn it faster and it pumps more water.

                        rick.
                        phoebe it is

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                        • #13
                          Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

                          well that sounds very easy then. and that other deal I am going to un wire and remove. as for making it a 4018, the upgrade is like 1600$. I have mostly pvc, abs and orangeburg here. grease lines with pvc and abs, some old cast, that's about it. nothing like I had in los angeles. newer area here and the old houses are in such bad shape its a tear out. For now I will keep the 4014 and build up the accounts then either run it into the ground and buy a new one, or if I end up needing more or outgrowing it, turn it into a 4018. Its paid off so that's a plus. even though I can get 600$ a cleaning here its going to take time to build up the jetter business and not worth a new unit payment. I will order my bypass tomorrow and take some pictures after I install it. I wanna see if I can get a handle for the unloader too, didn't know they had that option when I got it!
                          thanks for the help.

                          Oh, and roots in abs and pvc too, but not like we used to get them in terracotta. no test tee's with paper and cement! kinda miss it.
                          Last edited by BizzyBeePlumbing,Inc.; 11-04-2012, 09:01 PM.
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                          • #14
                            Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

                            your unloader should be set about 4200# to open. easy to disconnect the unloader bypass and see the water flow at the given pressure. you still have a burst/ rupture disc to protect the pump if all else fails.

                            the handle for the unloader is nice for smaller lines, but the bypass valve will tend to accomplish the same thing with a simple twist of the bypass.

                            a remote control is nice, but with an unloader and your smaller hose reels with valve, it's not that necessary except on the 1/2'' main reel.

                            rick.
                            phoebe it is

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                            • #15
                              Re: Installed unloader, now where would I put the bypass? Do I need one?

                              yeah, I missed the remote when I was going up through a manhole the other day had to pull the lid over to hold the hose from going up the sewer because I started jetting the clean out and didn't bother moving the jetter to the manhole, just the hose. I will think that one out better in the future. the ball valve works great on the mini and micro reels. when I get the bypass in, I will leave my mini on and set the unloader to 4200 psi through the gauge. Originally I was trying to set it with the ball valve off, and researched that to be incorrect, the mini has to be on with water flowing through the nozzle. the bypass will work great because as you said, I remember, it was just a twist of the knob from up to down and the mini reels were ready to go.
                              Last edited by BizzyBeePlumbing,Inc.; 11-04-2012, 09:17 PM.
                              Plumber Raleigh,Plumber Cary,Plumber Apex ,Plumber Apex, Plumber Morrisville,Plumber Durham, ,Plumber Holly Springs,Plumber Chapel Hill,Sump Pump Raleigh

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