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Drain cleaning w/k-60

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  • Drain cleaning w/k-60

    After 22 years it has finnally happened. I used to swear I would never clean a drain. In the past people would ask me what to do when the $hit starts to back up in their tub. My reply was simple and direct "I'll tell you what I tell my mother, hang up the phone and call one of those franchise rooter outfits!" That was then this is now. I've recently been requested by a "REALLY GOOD CUSTOMER" to address the drainage problems in this 50+ year old commercial facility. I purchased a K-60 used(great $ from a field tested tool resale establishment) I had no problem dealing with 4" mainlines / storm drainage /etc. My problems lie in the floor drains. I have only the c-10 cables, but 2-day ups through one of my suppliers has enabled me to have a trap leader with multiple small bits, including carbide 7/8. I figure with the leader and the carbide bit I should be able to bust through the stopage(which I believe is between the trap and san-t (2" by the way.) Am I correct in my assessment or should I use 1 3/4 spade or auger? I looked through previose forum topics but to no avail. Please help guide me through this most likley trivial task.
    When Quality Counts!

  • #2
    Mr. Ed,

    The K-60 will also turn 5/8" cable. I would leave the 7/8" cable on the truck and use a 5/8" cable.

    Mark
    "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

    I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Mark,
      I realize it will turn the 5/8 cable, the point is my trap arm is < 2 feet, my trap leaader is >2feet and from the shape of this historic building nobody has primed these particular floor drains for at least 10 years. What type of head would you put ona 5/8 cable to get through what I believe is rust in a hub/spigot 2" p-trap?
      When Quality Counts!

      Comment


      • #4
        ED, I WOULD START OFF SMALL, THEN ESTABLISH WATER FLOW. ONCE YOU GET IT DRAINING, YOU CAN INCREASE THE CUTTER SIZE. THE TRAP IS THE TOUGH SPOT. YOU MIGHT NEED TO BEND THE LEADER TO ALLOW FOR PASSAGE. REMEMBER YOU'RE WORKING A HIGH SPEED MACHINE 600+ RPM. THINGS WILL HAPPEN FAST. WATCH THE CLUTCH. THE CARBIDE CUTTER IS PRIMARLY FOR CONCRETE. I WOULD BE CAUTIOUS IN A TRAP. YOU MIGHT CUT THROUGH THE WEIR.
        RICK.

        Comment


        • #5
          Mr. Ed,

          Rick is right I would start with a straight auger and get flow in the line first.

          As for the 7/8" cable, if you can get that size cable through a 2" trap (135 degrees) that's 50-years old you're doing pretty good.

          Mark
          "Somewhere a Village is Missing Twelve Idiots!" - Casey Anthony

          I never lost a cent on the jobs I didn't get!

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks,
            I do appreciate your input Rick and Mark, It does make sense to start small and create positive drainage, working up to the larger bit. I did figure however that the 7/8 carbide being the smallest(and stoutest) would get me through. I'll try the straight auger and work my way to the spade, always remembering to feather the clutch.

            Oh yea on a lighter note: Mark I had absolutely no problem getting through the first 135 degrees of the trap, it was that infamous 2nd 135 degrees that prompted me to invest in the trap leader. Thanks for your input! [img]smile.gif[/img]
            When Quality Counts!

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